hookemdevils22

iTrader: (12)

or buy mine for $100 less.

since you can't space it too far out though, I'd recommend removing the current idler and running the belt from the AC compressor to the water pump, then to the alternator. You can use an f-body tensioner like Kwik's (and my) kit. I made spacers to space it out from the water pump mount, and flipped it upside-down to run it like in blue in your pic. the power steering pump pulley contact patch is less than ideal, but I haven't had any issues.

74modified

The tensioner is preset with its spring, most have marks on the stationary part for high and low tension, and a pointer on the movable part. Put the movable pointer in the middle of the two stationary ones (if it is not worn out). That said, for a set location the belt length will change the tension. You want enough belt wrap on each pully to prevent slippage. If you have less than 1/2 wrap you ask for problems.

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the replies.

Is there anyway ahead of time to know how much movement a certain location of the tensioner will cause on the marker. If it were possible I would just put a belt on and push the tensioner against it until the marker were at the appropriate setting, but I think the tensioners are far too strong to allow this to be done by hand. The only alternative I know is to guess and drill holes and see how it it works then adjust and redrill new holes accordingly.

Thanks,
Brandon

74modified

Bolt it in place to get good belt wrap, then turn it with a wrench to the tension setting, measure for belt. If you cant get a belt that size, then move a little. At least if you mess up the plywood it is cheap.

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

OK, gotcha. I guess too much tension is preferable to too little, in I have to go that way to get enough belt to touch the tensioner.

thanks,
brandon

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Just one note on what I discoved while building mine, these serpentine belt setups are very sensitive to alignment and pulley angle. If you're off a little the belt can walk off the pulley.

gneal

iTrader: (1)

What about these guys??

http://kwikperf.com/

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

OK fellas, I have a question. In the previous picture I showed the belt running through a new idler pulley. After working with it a lot today I may have found a better solution. The F-body water pump has a straight water neck sticking out and the truck has a bent water neck. What if I took an F-body water neck and installed it in my truck pump, which would point it straight up. That would allow me to run the radiator hose over the belt and eliminate the need for the extra idler, which has been causing me a lot of trouble today.

Hopefully this picture will make sense. So will an F-body pump straight-style water neck fit into a truck pump?



Thanks,
Brandon

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

The first problem I see in your picture is something I mentioned in my original post. In this setup you will have to drain the radiator to change belts because the upper hose will be trapped by the belt.

Why not place the AC unit lower and use a stock truck water pump? I prefer to use unmodified consumable parts (water pumps, etc.) for the potential problems on a road trip miles from nowhere.

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure what you mean about draining the radiator. The hoses run on the outside of the belt in both setups. The top hose runs over the belt and the bottom hose runs to the passenger side of the belt.

I can't move the compressor lower. It is almost hitting the valve cover now.

Brandon

74modified

Off the top of my head I cant remember if the dimensions are the same. I think it could have a chance of leaking after being pulled and pressed back in. You might think of tapping and using a threaded outlet. If you end up going this way you may find this hose will be the highest point in the system and needs a bleed to eliminate air.
Here is a bleed and adapters for hose fitment. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Cooling-S...r.html#Datsun6

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

You're going to try to knock out the water neck from both a truck AND f body pump...then install the f body tube into the truck pump and hope it doesnt come out or leak? There are several other options that would be more reliable.

rfrankb4

are you sure you do not have room to use the low mount kits that make use of the main belt. It sure looks like you would have room to use one of those and make for a cleaner install.

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

There is definitely not room for a low mount kit. I had not considered if the hose were the highest part of the system it would need an air bleed system, that's good to know.

I already removed the water neck from the truck pump. It was very easy to get out with a non-metal hammer and didn't leave any dents. I assumed the f-body would come out the same way. I've reinstalled the truck pump at a different angle. I assumed when I put it back the final time I would use a sealer. What other options would be better than switching water necks? I'm trying to find the best options so I'm open to any suggestions.


Thanks,
Brandon

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

If you're set on using the truck pump, tap the inlet and put an NPT fitting. I've removed and tapped the heater hose fittings, but dont think I would trust anything pressed in that might be distorted.
Otherwise,
use an fbody LS1 pump with ebay spacers
or an L99 pump
or swap the truck pulley on f body pump
or buy one already done
http://www.foxlinders.com/accessories/waterpump.html
you might also consider routing the belt differently.

Vetteman61

iTrader: (1)

If I use an Fbody pump the outlet will come straight out, which would put it inside the belt and would mean I would have to remove the radiator hose to change the belt.


Brandon

garys 68

iTrader: (1)

Not if you route the belt under the water pump pulley.
But even if you keep the current routing, belts are typically good for over 50k miles. How often are you going to have to drain a gallon to swap it?
Btw, if you go up too high with the inlet tube on the water pump, it will end up being higher than the radiator cap and you'll have a hard time getting all the air out.

74modified

I for the third time vote for tap and threaded outlet. To help with the height, you could take the hose out under the compressor and through the bracket to the passenger side. I would rather cut the stock truck outlet down, it would leave about 1" and certainly not ideal, than try to pull and press another outlet.

fox12303

iTrader: (7)

Take a look at the attached threads. My mini sanden compressor mount works with the truck offset. I've made my own drive using an inexpensive alternator and is compatible with the truck accessories. It's pretty simple too compared to all the cantilevered brackets. It won't work with the larger Sanden compressor you already have though.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...available.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...l#post16242884

LSCha0s

iTrader: (4)

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