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1985 Monte Carlo SS 6.2l (ls3) / 4l80e swap

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Old 12-08-2013, 05:07 PM
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Pray you didn't ruin the mounts?

Old 12-08-2013, 05:07 PM
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I'm interested in know this also. I just figured you had to go with Auto Meter gauges...but would love to be able to keep the stockers...and have them work!

Thanks...
Old 12-08-2013, 05:13 PM
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Fuel gauge should be fine with a stock sending unit, voltage will pick up on its own, depends if it has temp and oil pressure in the dash cluster. Oil pressure sender can be swapped out or adapted to the original one, and temp sender should not be that hard at all. If not, they have some cool digital gauges that can be mounted on the passenger side head by removing the plug over there and replacing it with an adapted sending unit to fit the head. That bolt hole is 12mm and auto meter sells an adapter to fit that 12mm down to 1/8 npt. I have one in my passenger head and cheap digital gauge and it reads from 104 to 300+ degrees...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290784363648...84.m1439.l2649

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=151175263317
Old 12-08-2013, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by llorracs93s10
Trans, yes .....motor probably not. I get heckled for saying I will put a coat of paint on a aluminum block. But I am going to get the valve covers, water pump, front accesorires/brackets all painted matte black so it should clean up alot better. That will happen when the rest of the car is at the body shop getting the bay sprayed same matte black. Right now just worried about mocking this heavy combo.
To each his own, Im just not a fan of the corroded aluminum look.
Old 12-08-2013, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BigEd_72455
Fuel gauge should be fine with a stock sending unit, voltage will pick up on its own, depends if it has temp and oil pressure in the dash cluster. Oil pressure sender can be swapped out or adapted to the original one, and temp sender should not be that hard at all. If not, they have some cool digital gauges that can be mounted on the passenger side head by removing the plug over there and replacing it with an adapted sending unit to fit the head. That bolt hole is 12mm and auto meter sells an adapter to fit that 12mm down to 1/8 npt. I have one in my passenger head and cheap digital gauge and it reads from 104 to 300+ degrees...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/290784363648...84.m1439.l2649

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=151175263317
And as for the speedo? Mine just does not work at all doesnt move or anything (5.3/700r4). And that truck I have on the back of the truck intake the adapter fitting to utilize the stock oil pressure sensor but thats about it for that.

Originally Posted by 68BBChevelle
To each his own, Im just not a fan of the corroded aluminum look.
Believe me too, my pops and brother both say ''Fvck'' what others want its your car. lol.
Old 12-09-2013, 02:25 PM
  #106  
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Great Job so far, I just received most of the parts needed to start my LS install in my 85 GN. Seeing other guys projects gets me anxious to get mine going.
Old 12-10-2013, 08:50 AM
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I've said it once, I'll say it a million more times before you listen to me: http://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/

or

http://www.scangauge.com/

Sorry I wasn't there last Friday, I would have spotted the mounts being backwards and might have saved you this headache...damn me and my Monday-Friday morning friendship!!!

To get the Monte speedo to work with the 80 will probably cost more than buying a gauge.
Old 12-11-2013, 06:57 PM
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Well today was a very successful day in the fact in three hours we got a whole heck of a lot more done than the last three days that I had done to the car. I will let the pictures speak for themselves but I will say that you guys with ceramic coated or painted headers will be jealous! lol

Passenger side mount clearance with the CORRECT location
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Driver side.....NOTE TO OTHERS, no modding to brackets needed as you can see
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Shes in! 95% of the way, not fully in but as close as we could without the further fitment issues we need to resolve
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Headers bolted in! Seriously!
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Well I have more but my phone has yet to upload them but I will post them when they do....I took as many pictures for other people on the fitment of these headers. But I will say this for you guys, small small small things needed to be done for a complete fit but these are a great buy for any g body doing this swap.

NOTE: I have 1 inch set back plates with the TSP 1-3/4 long tubes. With this combo and pictured trans mods, these headers fit! Best part is they are Stainless Steel.

Only mods needed to fit perfect is a small, half dollar size dent on the passenger side header. One primary that is closest to the rear bracket on the LCA needs to be dented. Other than that, the driver side has a brake line that needs re-routing. Other than that, these fit great!

So as a recap, besides the header mods, we cut the flat tabs on the rubber mounts so the brackets fit better for final install. Oil pan needs some grinding on the front side that sits in the engine cradle. Its very tight on the front corners, so they will need a little clearance. Other than that, the thing sits in good. Only other concern is the passenger side rear most coil pack.

But anyways, Saturday I plan to go down and fix the last issues to resolve the motor sitting in perfect and than its off to get the engine bay painted. So stoked right now!
Old 12-11-2013, 06:57 PM
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Well today was a very successful day in the fact in three hours we got a whole heck of a lot more done than the last three days that I had done to the car. I will let the pictures speak for themselves but I will say that you guys with ceramic coated or painted headers will be jealous! lol

Passenger side mount clearance with the CORRECT location
Name:  IMG_20131211_113452_392_zpsbf26c994.jpg
Views: 2461
Size:  55.0 KB

Driver side.....NOTE TO OTHERS, no modding to brackets needed as you can see
Name:  IMG_20131211_113413_983_zps9ae9118e.jpg
Views: 2386
Size:  87.7 KB

Shes in! 95% of the way, not fully in but as close as we could without the further fitment issues we need to resolve
Name:  IMG_20131211_142548_452_zpsd57c2139.jpg
Views: 2420
Size:  89.6 KB

Name:  IMG_20131211_142559_260_zpse6c5a119.jpg
Views: 2492
Size:  85.5 KB

Headers bolted in! Seriously!
Name:  IMG_20131211_155937_775_zpse9c436d9.jpg
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Size:  79.5 KB

Name:  IMG_20131211_160013_453_zps47cceb92.jpg
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Size:  82.9 KB

Name:  IMG_20131211_160327_046_zps3284f928.jpg
Views: 2437
Size:  58.1 KB

Well I have more but my phone has yet to upload them but I will post them when they do....I took as many pictures for other people on the fitment of these headers. But I will say this for you guys, small small small things needed to be done for a complete fit but these are a great buy for any g body doing this swap.

NOTE: I have 1 inch set back plates with the TSP 1-3/4 long tubes. With this combo and pictured trans mods, these headers fit! Best part is they are Stainless Steel.

Only mods needed to fit perfect is a small, half dollar size dent on the passenger side header. One primary that is closest to the rear bracket on the LCA needs to be dented. Other than that, the driver side has a brake line that needs re-routing. Other than that, these fit great!

So as a recap, besides the header mods, we cut the flat tabs on the rubber mounts so the brackets fit better for final install. Oil pan needs some grinding on the front side that sits in the engine cradle. Its very tight on the front corners, so they will need a little clearance. Other than that, the thing sits in good. Only other concern is the passenger side rear most coil pack.

But anyways, Saturday I plan to go down and fix the last issues to resolve the motor sitting in perfect and than its off to get the engine bay painted. So stoked right now!
Old 12-11-2013, 08:04 PM
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Looks good..even when double posted.. lol
Old 12-11-2013, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
Looks good..even when double posted.. lol
I blame it on my one year old niece. Damn kid all over the lap top. lol
Old 12-11-2013, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by llorracs93s10
I blame it on my one year old niece. Damn kid all over the lap top. lol
LIES!!!
Old 12-21-2013, 10:20 PM
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did you ever figure out if the factor shifter and location will work??
Old 12-22-2013, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by llorracs93s10
Any thoughts on the shifter setup is greatly appreciated as well, havent gotten a clear cut answer whether the stock cable can be modded or not.

My stock cable wouldn't even reach my 4l60e, doubt it will with a 4l80e. And you are using 1" setback plates like me.

I bought and used a 5ft B&M cable with the factory shifter.

M6 threaded rod, few nuts and washers.

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There is just no detent for 1st and 2nd. Could drill out the rivets to remove the plate and notch it myself or just make a new detent plate.

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Old 12-22-2013, 07:48 AM
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That is good news on the TSP headers. We bought the cheaper Speed Engineering race headers to use on our G-body swap... I hope to provide some good info on them soon.
Old 12-22-2013, 09:41 AM
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So, your working combination consists of the 1" eBay mounts, ls1 Fbody pan, & TSP headers... How does the oil pan sump fitment look around the crossmember? Can you post the part # for the headers? Also, what was the verdict on the coilpack to AC box clearance?

Thanks!
Old 12-22-2013, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mOtOrHeAd MiKe
That is good news on the TSP headers. We bought the cheaper Speed Engineering race headers to use on our G-body swap... I hope to provide some good info on them soon.
Yea, I was please that they fit in rather good. Just used some wire to hold the headers in the engine bay, dropped the motor and trans in and bolted it all together once drivetrain was in.
Originally Posted by 85mcss
So, your working combination consists of the 1" eBay mounts, ls1 Fbody pan, & TSP headers... How does the oil pan sump fitment look around the crossmember? Can you post the part # for the headers? Also, what was the verdict on the coilpack to AC box clearance?

Thanks!
Yes on the ebay set back plates, and f body oil pan. Clearance was good enough on the center of the engle cradle but on the front corners of the oil pan hit ever so slightly. So i took the grinder and grinded down some on the crandle for about 1/4 inch more clearance. That is all I really need. When my s10 had the lt1 in it, my oilpan to cradle clearance was as close as you could get and it was fine for the 24k I had on the swap.

And here is the link ....
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-3516-te...e-headers.aspx
Old 12-22-2013, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by BOXCHEV
My stock cable wouldn't even reach my 4l60e, doubt it will with a 4l80e. And you are using 1" setback plates like me.

I bought and used a 5ft B&M cable with the factory shifter.

M6 threaded rod, few nuts and washers.



There is just no detent for 1st and 2nd. Could drill out the rivets to remove the plate and notch it myself or just make a new detent plate.

Ok, cool. My guy can fab things up but if the cable is too short than no fabbing a longer cable, lol. And as for no detent, I am a newbie....that is the bracket with the notches? I guess 1st and 2nd is not needed really with putting it in drive or overdrive even at the track?
Old 12-27-2013, 12:03 PM
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Looking good subscribed
Old 01-04-2014, 01:39 PM
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Well, slow progress is better than no progress so here is what has happened since the last update. Since dropping the motor and trans into the engine bay, we found out that the HVAC box needed to be notched so we are just finishing up on that. Notch is coming out pretty good, and following that I have started to strip the firewall of all that junk on the wall. Contemplating pulling the brake booster setup to get more access to the firewall. But for now I will keep at it til that comes up.

I am going to buy the Summit Racing urethane matte black paint to paint the firewall and everything else attached to it. As for the wheel tubs and heater box, any suggestions on adhesive promoter for the paint to stick to the plastic? I did order some feather lite body filler to try and smooth out the firewall a little bit more than it is.

This coming Friday I will be back down there to get more done to the firewall. Hopefully he will be finished up with the notch. Still going to try and get the engine in the car by months end. Really need this project to move a lot quicker since it is going to be February soon enough and than March, April, MAY! lol. Anyways, heres some pictures .....

Before notch
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During
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Almost after.....
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