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I believe you may be correct - if the throttle body will fit on the manifold. Some are three bolt and some are four. In any event, you should be able to get an adapter.
I'm currently in the parts gathering stage to put an 06 Corvette LS2 in my 83 El Camino - I have the engine. My original thought was to switch to a DBC throttle body and that would allow me to stick with my non-electronic 700-R4 transmission with a TV cable kick-down. NOT! The computer doesn't care about the intake manifold but, the engine internals and the throttle body have to match. The earlier (Corvette) LS1 (99<) have DBC and a 24 tooth crankshaft reluctor wheel. The later LS1/LS2/LS6 have DBW and a 58 tooth reluctor wheel. Two separate shops who make/modify engine harnesses and re-flash ECUs told me they are unable to make the DBC work with a 58 tooth reluctor wheel engine. The solutions to that is to pull the crankshaft and change the reluctor wheel or, go with a DBW. I'm ditching my 700-R4 and going with a 4L60E or 4L65E transmission and DBW.
I think I've got it covered now. I'm not changing anything on the short block to LS3 things. I may go to a higher comp piston set and definitely a cam but the crank will be the same. The computer and the crank sensor therefore won't change and I should be in the clear. Everything else is looking good.
Jess
Well I sold my Camaro last weekend, and I'm going to be using a bit of the money and all of the space I've cleared out of the garage to put into the swap now. I'm hopefully going to get some pictures in the next few weeks of cool parts and things relating to the build. And I'm going to get the front brake swap started and then the hydroboost as well. I'll do the rear discs when I get a rear end for the car.
Also I'm working on building a parking pad next to my garage so if in the future I need another place to park it won't impact the garage much
Jessica
I had some time yesterday morning and things kind of snowballed hahaha
Fuel system parts. I've also got a stock Fbody pump but I'll probably just get a walbro like everyone else
New cross member and frame extension
The new gas tank
A bunch more stuff. Brakes are the first phase of the project.
I've decided I could always use a bigger garage
What I've got now, stock size 10.xx" dia rotors and single piston calipers.
The upgrade! Camaro brakes
Had to remove a couple things.
The booster was failing (and it was original from '78) and so was the master so this all makes sense to replace things now
So today I plan to remove the steering box and replace it with my high ratio one and install a jeep intermedate shaft and figure out how to install my hydroboost setup
Next week I'm going to call around for places to turn my old rotors into hubs for the Camaro rotors to slip over.
Jessica
Well as happens when you buy a part for stupid cheap things can go wrong. The center section needs some work but luckily I found a local ford guy who is going to install a 31 spline locker and freshen up the rest of the unit for me for a very reasonable price
Jessica
Did u get the steam holes fig out? On the ls3 heads the 2 rear steam holes should be plugged from factory u just need the ls3 style hose that goes from the front of one head to the other with a nipple on pass side. route this to nipple on water pump spacer it is bent to go under throttle body then use gen4 knock sensors that bolt to side of block
Did u get the steam holes fig out? On the ls3 heads the 2 rear steam holes should be plugged from factory u just need the ls3 style hose that goes from the front of one head to the other with a nipple on pass side. route this to nipple on water pump spacer it is bent to go under throttle body then use gen4 knock sensors that bolt to side of block
Yup that was exactly the way I'm leaning towards. I'm just going to plug the rears and use the front LQ4 piping and some rubber hose with clamps to make it all work. I'm also going to go with the block mounted knock sensors because I tried to fit my wiring under the manifold and its a really tight fit, in fact it may ruin the wiring.
UPDATE:
I also go my fuel rails mounted
I think this means I'm done mocking the parts up and can move onto the next phase.
I bought a new tool box in my garage for my birthday (a present to myself, that just means more organizing).
I'm still figuring out the fuel pump sender issue and I'm closer on getting the master and hydroboost in but not the new rotors and calipers. I need to find a local machinist that will turn down my old rotors into hubs and press in new wheel studs.
Got some more stuff completed this weekend. I found a really nice local guy thats been building ford rear ends for years and he really helped me out. I took my dif over to his place and the next day he'd completely gone through it and cleaned and painted it too. He switched out the 28 spline spool carrier and the 4:10 gears for a 31 spline locker and 3.70 gears and a new yoke.
This is getting sold 28 spline mini spool.<br/>
And here is the rebuilt unit.
I couldn't be happier Now I'm probably going to order the rear housing and I'm going to keep pressing ahead on the brake project. I've got my adapter designed in solid works for to mount the hydro boost. I've just got to shop around for a place to cut and weld it for me. I don't trust my welding on such an important part.
I don't want to jinx myself but I really want to have this monster on the road by summer and its looking like it might just happen.
Just read the whole thread, great build. I have several G bodies. For your front brakes look up Kore3. They have a kit that will allow you to use the LS1 caliper and rotor and keep your dropped spindles. I don't recommend turning down a stock rotor to make a hub. If you don't want to buy the kit from Kore3 you can just buy the hub and make your own abutment bracket to hold the caliper. Not a lot to it. Keep up the good work. I have an LY6 in a 92 Camaro, cam and headers it makes 430 rwhp. Yours should be in that neighborhood so it'll be fun in the elco.
Just read the whole thread, great build. I have several G bodies. For your front brakes look up Kore3. They have a kit that will allow you to use the LS1 caliper and rotor and keep your dropped spindles. I don't recommend turning down a stock rotor to make a hub. If you don't want to buy the kit from Kore3 you can just buy the hub and make your own abutment bracket to hold the caliper. Not a lot to it. Keep up the good work. I have an LY6 in a 92 Camaro, cam and headers it makes 430 rwhp. Yours should be in that neighborhood so it'll be fun in the elco.
Thanks for the info, I've looked at Kore3 in the past and they always list g-bodys as not supported. I looked again and they say they are a good candidate for a spindle swap with a b-body and then use their b-body hub. Go figure why I'd swap to a b-body that has 12" brakes and then get a hub to run 12" brakes I guess its just how they do things (and you get a better caliper and the option for larger corvette brakes). I never liked what I heard about running a b-body spindle on a g-body so I'll steer clear of that. I've seen flynbye as well as afx have aluminum machined hubs as well that I may look into.
Got a lot done this weekend. With it being the holidays I only get a few hours a day on the weekend for this stuff but at least I have some time. I've been trying to get a good idea of how much of a spacer I'll need to make for the hydroboost. I've got a rough design done in solid works already but I need to know the distance I need the booster to sit off the firewall. I'm just going to have two plates cut and a tube welded in between them; but for mocking it all up I'm using PVC.
Picked up a couple pairs of 6 ton jack stands to keep the truck up a little higher and a lot more stable, so now its all up in the air
The rear end came out surprisingly easy. I haven't had it out since I installed the tubular arms in 2007.
My collection of rear ends is growing! I need to get these out of the garage soon
Then I wend ahead and removed the exhaust because its in the way of dropping the gas tank.
As you can see the leaking rear main seal was keeping everything from rusting
Hopefully today I can get a few more things taken off and some more gas pumped out of the tank so it isn't so heavy when I unbolt it.
Are those Flowmaster mufflers? If so, did you like them at all? Nice looking engine. Looks like things are coming together nicely !!!
Good eye! They are 40 series. They were basically the greatest thing I'd ever heard when I was 19. I still liked them but they might have gotten louder as they aged (might have lost a baffle inside or something) but I still like them. This exhaust system with the cats and crossover was quieter than the straight pipes with glasspacks I had on it before. I think the cats really were doing all the muffling
So I got a ton done before I went out of town for Christmas and I even managed to keep my hands clean enough that I was able to grab my phone and take some pics of the carnage.
Finished pumping all the gas into my S10 and got the headers and the driveshaft removed.
Took the fan off and the shroud and installed the top plate. I found out my copper radiator is in fact twice as thick as the brand new aluminum one I have so I'm thinking I may not use the aluminum one now.
Goodbye flex fan
I unhooked all the hoses and wires to the engine. I just need to drain the coolant and unbolt it from the trans and it'll be ready to come out.
The old fuel system, a carter pump on some weird brackets I bent on a curb and bolted to the frame...living in Seattle with no garage made car work a lot more exciting!
I'll keep plugging away at the engine and trans but I don't think much will get done till I get the brakes and axle back under the car and I can move it around some and pull the engine.
Also I'm going to paint the underside of the car, but I'm not 100% sure what to use. I'm thinking POR15 or eastwood product or a brush on bedliner? Any experience people have would be great to hear about. I like that I can just go buy the bed liner locally but I don't know if its the right product for the job.
Jessica
I didn't want to climb under the car with the camera just yet because it is so greasy and gross, but there was progress this weekend! I got the bell housing bolts and the torque converter bolts off as well as the hoses and cables to the trans removed. The engine is drained and the distributor and all the front accessories are off. I'm going to try to get my Dad to come by my place and assist me with dropping the trans and taking the hood off. I should be able to pull the engine this week as well. Then I think I'm going to start to clean the floor pans and frame to paint them with something.
I already know where the holes in the floor pans are and the bad repairs done to them but unless I really want this project to snowball into a frame off I don't really know what to do about the rusty pans at this point. Plus I only have a cheap flux core welder and I really don't want to use it on the floor pans again I'm starting to think this car should be called "Project Creep" because it keeps growing.
Great project I have a wrecked 07 trailblazer ss with the LS2 engine and 4L70e trans that I am going to put as much as I can in my 83 elcamino. I have the whole vehicle so I will be trying to modify a lot of items as I want to use the radiator, engine ,trans, computers and even brake system and fuel system. I am even looking into taking the seats and center console.lol ,I am going with a 9" rearend as you did. Thanks for posting, it really helps to have all this info.
Great progress on your elco!! One other option for front brakes are the S-10 4 door blazer spindles and hubs with your choice of rotor and caliper. Very easy swap. The factory rotor is 11 inches and its a dual piston caliper. If you want bigger all you do is make your own abutment bracket for the caliper. Best bang for the buck setup. Good luck with your build.
Great progress on your elco!! One other option for front brakes are the S-10 4 door blazer spindles and hubs with your choice of rotor and caliper. Very easy swap. The factory rotor is 11 inches and its a dual piston caliper. If you want bigger all you do is make your own abutment bracket for the caliper. Best bang for the buck setup. Good luck with your build.
I wasn't aware that the spindles NEED to be from a four door.
11-03-2014, 03:52 PM
Now I'm probably going to order the rear housing and I'm going to keep pressing ahead on the brake project. I've got my adapter designed in solid works for to mount the hydro boost. I've just got to shop around for a place to cut and weld it for me. I don't trust my welding on such an important part. 
I guess its just how they do things (and you get a better caliper and the option for larger corvette brakes). I never liked what I heard about running a b-body spindle on a g-body so I'll steer clear of that. I've seen flynbye as well as afx have aluminum machined hubs as well that I may look into. 
I'm starting to think this car should be called "Project Creep" because it keeps growing.
