Nightmare LSX S10 swap...Help?
10-06-2012, 05:02 PM
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Nightmare LSX S10 swap...Help? Hello all! New to LS1Tech, and I have some questions and a little advice too...I have been working on building a 98 s10 5.3l, 4l60-e auto, 2wd ext cab and need some advice on a couple of things...
First off is the headers...I am using the headers and motor mounts from Current Performance and they are hitting my control arms on both driver and pass side. To fix this I was thinking of gettng tubular control arms (seeing as how theydont have that flange thats in the way now) and was wondering if...
ANYONE has had this problem?
E-bay control arms ok? Or should I shell out big $$ for name brand?
Also the steering shaft is all up against the D-side header, where to find smaller diameter steering shaft?
Tips and pointers for those wanting to do this swap...this applies to putting TRUCK acessories on a LSX in a S10..and is only my opinion and based on m experience..I will post part numbers later if anyon wants them, they just arent in front of me right now.
DO NOT GET RUBBER 2.8 mounts, get the poly all the way. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING!! Thought Id be cheap, and had to replace anyway!
Power steering pump I used is the S10 4.3l pump and lines with the pulley from a 2000 Buick Silouette 3.4l...it will fit but you may need to spaced the alt out width of a washer cause belt jumped off..(not knowing if there is a whine at high rpm yet, as pulley is about 5/8" smaller in diameter)
Summit offers an oil pan that I DID NOT need to notch the crossmember with (but its close), came with windage tray, dipstick, and pickup tube. $150ish
If you want a/c I recomend the relocation bracket and sanden pump, I notched my truck to use the facory compressor in factory location...its VERY tight, VERY aggravating and will likely have to undo a motor mount to change belt in future...
There are lots of variables...but I had to modifly my transmission crossmember and shorten driveshaft.(just a heads up, just in case)
Currently running 98 s10 4.3 pump and lines up to the filter disconect, and running 2 lengths of -6braided line to rail keeping the return, with the adapters from Russel for the quick connect..so far it works in the garage, but unknown on street yet.
Sorry for such a long post, would have put pics but dont know how. I hope some of this helps a lil and hope someone can tell me something on the control arms and steering shaft. Thanks in adavance...
First off is the headers...I am using the headers and motor mounts from Current Performance and they are hitting my control arms on both driver and pass side. To fix this I was thinking of gettng tubular control arms (seeing as how theydont have that flange thats in the way now) and was wondering if...
ANYONE has had this problem?
E-bay control arms ok? Or should I shell out big $$ for name brand?
Also the steering shaft is all up against the D-side header, where to find smaller diameter steering shaft?
Tips and pointers for those wanting to do this swap...this applies to putting TRUCK acessories on a LSX in a S10..and is only my opinion and based on m experience..I will post part numbers later if anyon wants them, they just arent in front of me right now.
DO NOT GET RUBBER 2.8 mounts, get the poly all the way. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING!! Thought Id be cheap, and had to replace anyway!
Power steering pump I used is the S10 4.3l pump and lines with the pulley from a 2000 Buick Silouette 3.4l...it will fit but you may need to spaced the alt out width of a washer cause belt jumped off..(not knowing if there is a whine at high rpm yet, as pulley is about 5/8" smaller in diameter)
Summit offers an oil pan that I DID NOT need to notch the crossmember with (but its close), came with windage tray, dipstick, and pickup tube. $150ish
If you want a/c I recomend the relocation bracket and sanden pump, I notched my truck to use the facory compressor in factory location...its VERY tight, VERY aggravating and will likely have to undo a motor mount to change belt in future...
There are lots of variables...but I had to modifly my transmission crossmember and shorten driveshaft.(just a heads up, just in case)
Currently running 98 s10 4.3 pump and lines up to the filter disconect, and running 2 lengths of -6braided line to rail keeping the return, with the adapters from Russel for the quick connect..so far it works in the garage, but unknown on street yet.
Sorry for such a long post, would have put pics but dont know how. I hope some of this helps a lil and hope someone can tell me something on the control arms and steering shaft. Thanks in adavance...
10-06-2012, 05:28 PM
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I bought almost everything for my LQ4 into a 2003 Sonoma 2wd regular cab swap from Current.
I did not by headers from him as I am going turbo.
What I got from Current
Poly mounts
Oil Pan, pickup windage tray, dip stick
Plug and play wiring harness
ECM
Radiator, fans, and condenser.
All fit very well. I still notched my cross member. While it cleared the pan I could not lower the back of motor down much. I am running a 4L80e so I wanted some more room to get that big fat trans in and out if needed.
As for upper control arms Gbody parts as some nice and reasonably priced pieces. HERE
I did not by headers from him as I am going turbo.
What I got from Current
Poly mounts
Oil Pan, pickup windage tray, dip stick
Plug and play wiring harness
ECM
Radiator, fans, and condenser.
All fit very well. I still notched my cross member. While it cleared the pan I could not lower the back of motor down much. I am running a 4L80e so I wanted some more room to get that big fat trans in and out if needed.
As for upper control arms Gbody parts as some nice and reasonably priced pieces. HERE
10-06-2012, 05:34 PM
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It's wierd that you're hitting the control arms. Are you running lowering springs? They might bring the control arms up too much. I'd probably call Spohn for control arms. For the steering shaft, a lot of guys are using jeep shafts from a grand cherokee (I believe). I'm also doing a 5.3l in a 98 s10, rcsb though.
10-06-2012, 05:41 PM
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I bought almost everything for my LQ4 into a 2003 Sonoma 2wd regular cab swap from Current.
I did not by headers from him as I am going turbo.
What I got from Current
Poly mounts
Oil Pan, pickup windage tray, dip stick
Plug and play wiring harness
ECM
Radiator, fans, and condenser.
All fit very well. I still notched my cross member. While it cleared the pan I could not lower the back of motor down much. I am running a 4L80e so I wanted some more room to get that big fat trans in and out if needed.
As for upper control arms Gbody parts as some nice and reasonably priced pieces. HERE
I did not by headers from him as I am going turbo.
What I got from Current
Poly mounts
Oil Pan, pickup windage tray, dip stick
Plug and play wiring harness
ECM
Radiator, fans, and condenser.
All fit very well. I still notched my cross member. While it cleared the pan I could not lower the back of motor down much. I am running a 4L80e so I wanted some more room to get that big fat trans in and out if needed.
As for upper control arms Gbody parts as some nice and reasonably priced pieces. HERE
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10-06-2012, 06:59 PM
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Stock springs and control arms at present. The spindles are belltech 2" drop springs for blazer. I know its an oddball situation because ive seen nothing mentioned of this anywhere before.... All parts (wiring, fans, rad, mounts, poly mounts, headers "sandersen") are from Current, dont think it has to do with their stuff, jus that im lost as to HOW bot control arms touch....At any rate the bushings in both upper and lower arms a new, but since i have to get tubular, I will go ahead and get 1" Belltech springs and the leveler bushings....lots of unexpected expenses in this lol. Any other info on the jeep steering shaft? anyone? Thanks for all input.
10-06-2012, 07:43 PM
#9
Im collecting up parts now to drop a 5.3 in my 2000 s10, so ill be doing about the same build. Ive seen where people had to clearance their control arms but its easiest to just run tubular upper a arms . Im going with speedway motors http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chromo...haft,4853.html
they are cheap and supposed to work just fine. you have to order two rights if you get them from them
Maybe you can shift your motor one way or the other since the mounts are slotted, or put a small spacer in between them and the motor( id make a plate)
If you dont want to go the jeep shaft route you can just use a Flaming River U-Joint # FR1746DD
they are cheap and supposed to work just fine. you have to order two rights if you get them from them
Maybe you can shift your motor one way or the other since the mounts are slotted, or put a small spacer in between them and the motor( id make a plate)
If you dont want to go the jeep shaft route you can just use a Flaming River U-Joint # FR1746DD
10-06-2012, 10:48 PM
#10
Hello all! New to LS1Tech, and I have some questions and a little advice too...I have been working on building a 98 s10 5.3l, 4l60-e auto, 2wd ext cab and need some advice on a couple of things...
First off is the headers...I am using the headers and motor mounts from Current Performance and they are hitting my control arms on both driver and pass side. To fix this I was thinking of gettng tubular control arms (seeing as how theydont have that flange thats in the way now) and was wondering if...
ANYONE has had this problem?
E-bay control arms ok? Or should I shell out big $$ for name brand?
Also the steering shaft is all up against the D-side header, where to find smaller diameter steering shaft?
First off is the headers...I am using the headers and motor mounts from Current Performance and they are hitting my control arms on both driver and pass side. To fix this I was thinking of gettng tubular control arms (seeing as how theydont have that flange thats in the way now) and was wondering if...
ANYONE has had this problem?
E-bay control arms ok? Or should I shell out big $$ for name brand?
Also the steering shaft is all up against the D-side header, where to find smaller diameter steering shaft?
As for the steering shaft here is what I did for my setup. Used a bunch of Flaming River shafts, unjoints, and a carrier bearing to clear my headers. If you can get a single shaft to clear that's great, just remember that someday you may want to change plugs in that SOB.
02-02-2020, 08:42 AM
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Well, first off, yes you can put tubular control arms on your truck to gain some room. Don't go with cheapo units. Your safety or the safety of a buddy or a complete stranger for that matter isn't worth $100 or so. I forget what I ended up putting on mine (I think Spohn units for a Gbody) but yes I had a header clearance problem as well. Now I did my swap ALONG TIME AGO, so most of my parts were made by me being there wasn't much as far as a kit goes 8-10 years ago when I started my swap so my clearance issues could be completely different than yours.
As for the steering shaft here is what I did for my setup. Used a bunch of Flaming River shafts, unjoints, and a carrier bearing to clear my headers. If you can get a single shaft to clear that's great, just remember that someday you may want to change plugs in that SOB.
Attachment 677557
As for the steering shaft here is what I did for my setup. Used a bunch of Flaming River shafts, unjoints, and a carrier bearing to clear my headers. If you can get a single shaft to clear that's great, just remember that someday you may want to change plugs in that SOB.
Attachment 677557
02-02-2020, 11:44 AM
#14
TECH Senior Member
Kossuth might still be around. Was last here May last year.
02-02-2020, 08:37 PM
#15
Just look up double D steering u joint, measure to be sure what size, as far as the carrier goes you can use a Heim Joint, 3/4 id I believe, you will have to get creative on mounting, thats not just something you are going to bolt on easy. Holley makes a steering shaft if you are LS swapping.
