(can be seen in the pic). This was for the Holley Commander EFI which I've since removed. Good location for one. 
Temp Guage/ Fan temp sensor?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 159
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From: South east Wisconsin
Temp Guage/ Fan temp sensor? I am looking to find out where people have been putting there senders for their temp gauges and then where do you put the sender for the electric fans. I was trying to use my electric temp gauge sender for my fans temp sensor as well. I am not sure if the sender that was supplied with my electric fans is necessary or not. I am not too educated on electronics so understanding how things work for me usually takes a lot of trial and error.
Suggestions or details on what works? I am running the holley hp efi harness, sun pro gauges(electrical temp), and my radiator/dual fan combo came with its own wiring harness. Each head has been used already for the engine harness and the temp gauge
Help!
Suggestions or details on what works? I am running the holley hp efi harness, sun pro gauges(electrical temp), and my radiator/dual fan combo came with its own wiring harness. Each head has been used already for the engine harness and the temp gauge
Help! Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: South east Wisconsin
I am waiting for my radiator to come in and on Dillon Radiator,s suggestion was to put a 3/8 pipe thread bung in the radiator near the lower outlet. He said that would work for the supplied sending unit. It switches on at 185 and shuts down at 170. My thought was that this is on the cooled side of the radiator and may or may not be a problem for accurate engine temp readings.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
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It should, mine did. Unfortunately, I could never get the IAC motor to behave, so I pulled it and put on a carb. The newer Holley stuff should hopefully be better. The commander 950 was a pain.
You should be able to adapt the stock sensor from the old motor to the LS. That way your stock gauge should work like it always did. Lots of places to put the stock sensor. The M12x1.5 thread int he head for the LS sensor is smaller than most sensors. Lots of guys drill the head out to 3/8 NPT. If that doesn't appeal to you then there is tapping into the water pump, splicing a fitting into an heater or radiator hose, or putting a fitting into the freeze plug on the end of the head.
In my case I drilled and tapped a 1/2 NPT fitting into the brass block heater plug. There is one on either side of the motor. You can fit just about anything down there.
For fan control I use a $35 dereale adjustable fan switch with a radiator fin probe. Works fine once I JB welded the probe to the radiator. I would rather have a temp switch that screws right to the head, but no one makes one that fits the metric thread.
In my case I drilled and tapped a 1/2 NPT fitting into the brass block heater plug. There is one on either side of the motor. You can fit just about anything down there.
For fan control I use a $35 dereale adjustable fan switch with a radiator fin probe. Works fine once I JB welded the probe to the radiator. I would rather have a temp switch that screws right to the head, but no one makes one that fits the metric thread.
Here's some thoughts based on my experience as a cooling systems engineer.
Mounting the sensor on the last stop to the radiator gives a true reading of the engine out temp, and the fan can be turned on/off accordingly. Keeping your engine-out temp constant is a good way to maintain the durability of the engine. Keeping engine out temp high ensures less heat transfer to the coolant-which in turn enables better HP and better rad performance(less fan usage).
If the sensor is located say, before the heads, and it reads 170, then if you are at idle, the engine out temp may just be 175 or 180. but if you are at WOT 6k, engine out temp may be 210-220. Simple fan controlers don't have predictive capabilities based on rpm/load.
I'm not saying mounting before the heads is bad, just want people to be aware that if you have fan-on at 210, engine out temp may be overtemped.
Mounting the sensor on the last stop to the radiator gives a true reading of the engine out temp, and the fan can be turned on/off accordingly. Keeping your engine-out temp constant is a good way to maintain the durability of the engine. Keeping engine out temp high ensures less heat transfer to the coolant-which in turn enables better HP and better rad performance(less fan usage).
If the sensor is located say, before the heads, and it reads 170, then if you are at idle, the engine out temp may just be 175 or 180. but if you are at WOT 6k, engine out temp may be 210-220. Simple fan controlers don't have predictive capabilities based on rpm/load.
I'm not saying mounting before the heads is bad, just want people to be aware that if you have fan-on at 210, engine out temp may be overtemped.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: South east Wisconsin
Here's some thoughts based on my experience as a cooling systems engineer.
Mounting the sensor on the last stop to the radiator gives a true reading of the engine out temp, and the fan can be turned on/off accordingly. Keeping your engine-out temp constant is a good way to maintain the durability of the engine. Keeping engine out temp high ensures less heat transfer to the coolant-which in turn enables better HP and better rad performance(less fan usage).
If the sensor is located say, before the heads, and it reads 170, then if you are at idle, the engine out temp may just be 175 or 180. but if you are at WOT 6k, engine out temp may be 210-220. Simple fan controlers don't have predictive capabilities based on rpm/load.
I'm not saying mounting before the heads is bad, just want people to be aware that if you have fan-on at 210, engine out temp may be overtemped.
Mounting the sensor on the last stop to the radiator gives a true reading of the engine out temp, and the fan can be turned on/off accordingly. Keeping your engine-out temp constant is a good way to maintain the durability of the engine. Keeping engine out temp high ensures less heat transfer to the coolant-which in turn enables better HP and better rad performance(less fan usage).
If the sensor is located say, before the heads, and it reads 170, then if you are at idle, the engine out temp may just be 175 or 180. but if you are at WOT 6k, engine out temp may be 210-220. Simple fan controlers don't have predictive capabilities based on rpm/load.
I'm not saying mounting before the heads is bad, just want people to be aware that if you have fan-on at 210, engine out temp may be overtemped.
Here's some thoughts based on my experience as a cooling systems engineer.
Mounting the sensor on the last stop to the radiator gives a true reading of the engine out temp, and the fan can be turned on/off accordingly. Keeping your engine-out temp constant is a good way to maintain the durability of the engine. Keeping engine out temp high ensures less heat transfer to the coolant-which in turn enables better HP and better rad performance(less fan usage).
If the sensor is located say, before the heads, and it reads 170, then if you are at idle, the engine out temp may just be 175 or 180. but if you are at WOT 6k, engine out temp may be 210-220. Simple fan controlers don't have predictive capabilities based on rpm/load.
I'm not saying mounting before the heads is bad, just want people to be aware that if you have fan-on at 210, engine out temp may be overtemped.
Mounting the sensor on the last stop to the radiator gives a true reading of the engine out temp, and the fan can be turned on/off accordingly. Keeping your engine-out temp constant is a good way to maintain the durability of the engine. Keeping engine out temp high ensures less heat transfer to the coolant-which in turn enables better HP and better rad performance(less fan usage).
If the sensor is located say, before the heads, and it reads 170, then if you are at idle, the engine out temp may just be 175 or 180. but if you are at WOT 6k, engine out temp may be 210-220. Simple fan controlers don't have predictive capabilities based on rpm/load.
I'm not saying mounting before the heads is bad, just want people to be aware that if you have fan-on at 210, engine out temp may be overtemped.
Note sure I agree with your logic. If the radiator is dropping the coolant temp down near the thermostat setting then turning the fan on isn't accomplishing anything. It would seem to me setting the fan temp to keep the water just before the thermostat about 10° hotter then the thermostat setting is the way to go.
I'll have to think about this more.
