help on wiring please
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 59
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help on wiring please Hi you guys im doing a 5.3/4l60e swap in a 68 chevelle. Doing body work and epoxy the car right now and now i started on motor. The 5.3 is out of a 02 suburban with wiring harness. Got the 4l60e separate. Its one with separate bellhousing. And if i recall came from a newer year then 02. Im doing the wire harness right now and everything is going good im almost done just ran into one little issue. The trans range sensor/pnp switch, two connectors (7pin and a 4pin if i recall correctly). The smaller connector has all the wires that go to the pcm and the bigger range sensor goes up to underhood fuse box. Lt1swap.com says to delete this sensor and keep the smaller one??
So i wanted to know do i delete the bigger connector of the two or is it smart to wire it up? And what would it wire up too? The 4l60e i have has a switch that mounted on the driver side with one big connector instead of two connector switch?? What is the one connector switch on the tranny and can i just replace with the switch needed? Please im stuck on this part i can upload pictures tomorrow..THANK YOU
So i wanted to know do i delete the bigger connector of the two or is it smart to wire it up? And what would it wire up too? The 4l60e i have has a switch that mounted on the driver side with one big connector instead of two connector switch?? What is the one connector switch on the tranny and can i just replace with the switch needed? Please im stuck on this part i can upload pictures tomorrow..THANK YOU
Last edited by rayfrausto; Nov 20, 2012 at 01:47 AM.
There's a couple of ways you can go about this. The range sensor you have is a newer style switch. You can either get an older two plug switch and wire it up (you only need the 4 pin connector), or you can delete it and have the PCM programmed for a single wire that would go to another switch that would be grounded in park and neutral. Keeping the truck one would probably be easiest. That said, some people eliminate it all together and claim to have no issues, but if it were mine id keep it.
As stated above there are two ways, I have converted and made TONS of harnesses.
1. Delete both and have it removed and run a one wire NSS. There are a lot of people that delete this and then ever wire up a true NSS. thus the vehicle will start in any gear. This is BAD.
2. Leave it all in there. I know they tell you to delete the larger connector, but there are HUGE advantages to keeping it. The only thing that needs to be deleted is the 16g light green pnp signal wire. That was just for the shift lock. If you keep this connector and wire it up right you get your back up light switch, and a true NSS switch by wiring your cranking signal through it. This is how I wire up all of my re-wires and new harnesses if the customer is using this type of switch.
1. Delete both and have it removed and run a one wire NSS. There are a lot of people that delete this and then ever wire up a true NSS. thus the vehicle will start in any gear. This is BAD.
2. Leave it all in there. I know they tell you to delete the larger connector, but there are HUGE advantages to keeping it. The only thing that needs to be deleted is the 16g light green pnp signal wire. That was just for the shift lock. If you keep this connector and wire it up right you get your back up light switch, and a true NSS switch by wiring your cranking signal through it. This is how I wire up all of my re-wires and new harnesses if the customer is using this type of switch.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
thank you guys for the replies, so it is as i thought then. im going to order the older style switch mounted on the transmission, just wanted to make sure that the it would work and install in the tranny. im going to add the 7 pin connector back into the harness and wire them both up. Need to replace the connector they look shot and melted so going to order up the right switch and connectors and be on my way. So i can wire the 7 pin up to the stock switch that is on the shift column for the safety switch, and wire the reverse lights through it also correct?
Here a couple pics of the project i got ahead of me im trying to document alot.
(sorry you guys i cant get the file attachment to work so going to post some pics gonna load all big sorry in advance.)
right now i just stripping everything getting it covered in spi epoxy and cut out some spots that need patches then dropping in motor and when more funds finishing body work paint ect.
Here a couple pics of the project i got ahead of me im trying to document alot.
(sorry you guys i cant get the file attachment to work so going to post some pics gonna load all big sorry in advance.)
right now i just stripping everything getting it covered in spi epoxy and cut out some spots that need patches then dropping in motor and when more funds finishing body work paint ect.
If you need anything bill can help, he is building my harness now and has been very helpful. He's prior military also so his work and customer service is top notch.
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If you're using the switch mounted on the transmission, you will NOT be using the one on the column, you'll be bypassing it. You will have to get a starter relay and wire it in, as the switch on the transmission isn't designed to have the high current sent directly through it like your older column mounted one. It's not hard though, and it's actually better to use the one on the transmission since you get a more definite neutral safety, with the column mounted ones, the slop in the linkage, coupled with the fact that the detent in the column is designed for a 3 speed transmission, sometimes the the neutral safety will be kind of vague and will sometimes start in neutral and sometimes not, you have to kind of play with the shifter. I hope that makes sense?
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Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 59
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If you're using the switch mounted on the transmission, you will NOT be using the one on the column, you'll be bypassing it. You will have to get a starter relay and wire it in, as the switch on the transmission isn't designed to have the high current sent directly through it like your older column mounted one. It's not hard though, and it's actually better to use the one on the transmission since you get a more definite neutral safety, with the column mounted ones, the slop in the linkage, coupled with the fact that the detent in the column is designed for a 3 speed transmission, sometimes the the neutral safety will be kind of vague and will sometimes start in neutral and sometimes not, you have to kind of play with the shifter. I hope that makes sense?
And im going route of not switching my transmsion mlps switch and using connector that bill is going to make to work with my newer style switch
Ok, using the newer switch will also work, I didn't mention it because I figured it would be harder to find the plug, but since you've got that taken care of it's not a problem. What you would do is this, on the relay terminal. #30 would get constant power straight from the battery (usually through a 40amp fuse), then. #87 would go to the starter. #86 will go to ground and. #85 will go to the dark green wire on the range switch pin 1, and your original heavy purple starter wire (that originally went to the starter) will go to pin. 12 a pink wire on the range switch. Also if you take you're original NSS off the column, don't forget you'll need to jump the two purple wires together.