modifying my own harness to be used as a standalone ?'s
#1
modifying my own harness to be used as a standalone ?'s
in the midst of acquiring parts for my lq4/t56 swap ive acquired an extra wiring harness and before i pay somebody to cut down my harness i figured id try to do it myself first since i have a spare, now i have a few questions, this harness (from an lm7 5.3) is essentially the same exact thing as my other harness (from an lq4 6.0) right? they both have the red/blue ecu connections
now ive done some searching and found that these connections are the ones i have to get rid of for the harness to be a standalone piece:
Blue connector:
Wire numbers and colors: 23 gray, 25 tan, 28 tan\white, 32 gray, 41 black, 45 gray, 55 brown, 65 purple, 68 purple\white, 70 brown, 74 yellow, 79 white.
Red Connector:
Wire number and colors: 4 pink\black, 7 red, 13 white, 14 red\black, 18 dark green\white, 30 dark blue, 34 dark green \white, 36 brown, 37 dark green, 41 gray, 43 dark green white, 44 light green, 45 white, 53 gray\black, 54 purple, 64 dark green.
so what im asking is, as long as those wires are cut out (ill take them out of the ecu connectors, but just in theory) the harness will be a standalone harness, correct? if so this actually seems pretty easy.
also, if somebody could post up a diagram of how the red/blue ecu connections are numbered would be great because i cant seem to find one atm
thanks for any help you can offer
now ive done some searching and found that these connections are the ones i have to get rid of for the harness to be a standalone piece:
Blue connector:
Wire numbers and colors: 23 gray, 25 tan, 28 tan\white, 32 gray, 41 black, 45 gray, 55 brown, 65 purple, 68 purple\white, 70 brown, 74 yellow, 79 white.
Red Connector:
Wire number and colors: 4 pink\black, 7 red, 13 white, 14 red\black, 18 dark green\white, 30 dark blue, 34 dark green \white, 36 brown, 37 dark green, 41 gray, 43 dark green white, 44 light green, 45 white, 53 gray\black, 54 purple, 64 dark green.
so what im asking is, as long as those wires are cut out (ill take them out of the ecu connectors, but just in theory) the harness will be a standalone harness, correct? if so this actually seems pretty easy.
also, if somebody could post up a diagram of how the red/blue ecu connections are numbered would be great because i cant seem to find one atm
thanks for any help you can offer
#2
Look where the wires go into the red and blue connectors and you'll see the pin numbers. Sometimes the connectors are a little corroded but you can clean that off to make the numbers easy to see.
#3
in the midst of acquiring parts for my lq4/t56 swap ive acquired an extra wiring harness and before i pay somebody to cut down my harness i figured id try to do it myself first since i have a spare, now i have a few questions, this harness (from an lm7 5.3) is essentially the same exact thing as my other harness (from an lq4 6.0) right? they both have the red/blue ecu connections
now ive done some searching and found that these connections are the ones i have to get rid of for the harness to be a standalone piece:
Blue connector:
Wire numbers and colors: 23 gray, 25 tan, 28 tan\white, 32 gray, 41 black, 45 gray, 55 brown, 65 purple, 68 purple\white, 70 brown, 74 yellow, 79 white.
Red Connector:
Wire number and colors: 4 pink\black, 7 red, 13 white, 14 red\black, 18 dark green\white, 30 dark blue, 34 dark green \white, 36 brown, 37 dark green, 41 gray, 43 dark green white, 44 light green, 45 white, 53 gray\black, 54 purple, 64 dark green.
so what im asking is, as long as those wires are cut out (ill take them out of the ecu connectors, but just in theory) the harness will be a standalone harness, correct? if so this actually seems pretty easy.
also, if somebody could post up a diagram of how the red/blue ecu connections are numbered would be great because i cant seem to find one atm
thanks for any help you can offer
now ive done some searching and found that these connections are the ones i have to get rid of for the harness to be a standalone piece:
Blue connector:
Wire numbers and colors: 23 gray, 25 tan, 28 tan\white, 32 gray, 41 black, 45 gray, 55 brown, 65 purple, 68 purple\white, 70 brown, 74 yellow, 79 white.
Red Connector:
Wire number and colors: 4 pink\black, 7 red, 13 white, 14 red\black, 18 dark green\white, 30 dark blue, 34 dark green \white, 36 brown, 37 dark green, 41 gray, 43 dark green white, 44 light green, 45 white, 53 gray\black, 54 purple, 64 dark green.
so what im asking is, as long as those wires are cut out (ill take them out of the ecu connectors, but just in theory) the harness will be a standalone harness, correct? if so this actually seems pretty easy.
also, if somebody could post up a diagram of how the red/blue ecu connections are numbered would be great because i cant seem to find one atm
thanks for any help you can offer
You still have to separate the ignition circuits out and splice them together. Dont do like some people say and just splice all of them together. 4 fuses is not enough to proplerly run an engine.
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LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
#4
its not quite that easy as just removing wires. relays and fuses have to be wired in after the wires you want removed are out. i'm in the middle of the same conversion on an lq4 for my chevelle. there are a couple youtube videos that go through the stand alone conversion pretty much step by step that will at least give you some sort of idea what does into the whole process. also def look on lt1swap.com. they have pin outs on just about every ls style wiring harness gm has made including instructions on which wires you can remove, which wires can be used to power other accesories, and easier ways of rewiring for a clean end result. also there are alot of guys on here that have already done this swap that have endless information on whatever you want to do!
check out my build if you want. im to the point where i have the harness back in the engine bay, rerouted the way i want, and am starting to wire up the fuse block and relays and have pictures of everything since i started
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...6-build-2.html
check out my build if you want. im to the point where i have the harness back in the engine bay, rerouted the way i want, and am starting to wire up the fuse block and relays and have pictures of everything since i started
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...6-build-2.html
#5
its not quite that easy as just removing wires. relays and fuses have to be wired in after the wires you want removed are out. i'm in the middle of the same conversion on an lq4 for my chevelle. there are a couple youtube videos that go through the stand alone conversion pretty much step by step that will at least give you some sort of idea what does into the whole process. also def look on lt1swap.com. they have pin outs on just about every ls style wiring harness gm has made including instructions on which wires you can remove, which wires can be used to power other accesories, and easier ways of rewiring for a clean end result. also there are alot of guys on here that have already done this swap that have endless information on whatever you want to do!
check out my build if you want. im to the point where i have the harness back in the engine bay, rerouted the way i want, and am starting to wire up the fuse block and relays and have pictures of everything since i started
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...6-build-2.html
check out my build if you want. im to the point where i have the harness back in the engine bay, rerouted the way i want, and am starting to wire up the fuse block and relays and have pictures of everything since i started
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...6-build-2.html
Fusing for pink wires as follows:
PCM fuse - 15 amp
Inj bank 1 - 15 amp
Inj bank 2 - 15 amp
Eng Sens fuse to both O2 sensors - 20amp
Trans control solenoid, on 13 pin connector - 15 amp
Fusing for Orange wire:
PCM to battery fuse - 10 amp
Fuel Pump thru fuel pump relay - 20 amp
#7
okay so after i remove all the wires listed in the OP are these the ones i have to run to a fuse block?
Fusing for pink wires as follows:
PCM fuse - 15 amp
Inj bank 1 - 15 amp
Inj bank 2 - 15 amp
Eng Sens fuse to both O2 sensors - 20amp
Trans control solenoid, on 13 pin connector - 15 amp
Fusing for Orange wire:
PCM to battery fuse - 10 amp
Fuel Pump thru fuel pump relay - 20 amp
Fusing for pink wires as follows:
PCM fuse - 15 amp
Inj bank 1 - 15 amp
Inj bank 2 - 15 amp
Eng Sens fuse to both O2 sensors - 20amp
Trans control solenoid, on 13 pin connector - 15 amp
Fusing for Orange wire:
PCM to battery fuse - 10 amp
Fuel Pump thru fuel pump relay - 20 amp
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#8
are you the guy with the teal 1sz that wanted to trade for the motor out of my 71 monte and cash???
#9
#10
#11
You tie them in with the injectors. So bank 1 injectors and coils and bank 2 injectors and coils, then fuse each of them with a 15amp.
__________________
Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
#12
ill probably just have you modify mine when i have the money but ill try it out first, what do you recommend me to buy for tools and materials and such to do this with? i have nothing at all for working on wiring haha
#13
I do offer Diy kits that come with the necissary wiring components you need to modify your own harness. All you would need at that point is a soldering iron or torch and some solder with some heat shrink.
Just depends on what you want as far as fusing goes and what accessories you are going to want to run.
__________________
Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
Standalone LS Swap Harnesses IN STOCK!
LSX, LTX Stand alone swap harnesses. S10 LSX conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses, 24x conversion PLUG AND PLAY harnesses. LT1 to LSX PLUG AND PLAY Harnesses.
sales@bp-automotive.com
www.bp-automotive.com
1-888-467-4491
#20
FWIW....I bet you could sell both of those harness and make enough $$ to pay for a PSI harness. Ready to go, no guess work, and you don't have to worry about mistakes splicing wires together. I feel it was money well spent...and Jon at PSI has excellent customer service.