70 Chevelle LS1 T56 build
03-03-2013, 07:45 AM
#62
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The Chevelle is now running great. When I pulled the spark plugs I found the 4 plugs on the drivers side wet and the 4 on passengers side was dry. Replaced the plugs and started to check the wet side by unplugging the coil pack. The car ran the same with just the 4 cylinders. I checked the plug and one of the connectors was bent and not making contact. Straighten out the connector plugged it back in and it runs great. Yes 8 cylinders are much better than 4. I think the only problem I will have now is getting traction.
Now time to work on the tach, reverse lights, A/C, and interior back together.
Now time to work on the tach, reverse lights, A/C, and interior back together.
03-04-2013, 05:29 PM
#64
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Here are a few updated pics of the engine bay.
I still have a few issues to resolve like the check engine light not working and tach not working. Than try to get the A/C lines ran and hooked up.
I still have a few issues to resolve like the check engine light not working and tach not working. Than try to get the A/C lines ran and hooked up.
03-04-2013, 05:33 PM
#65
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Great looking car and build. Sometimes I wish I would have started with a cleaner car like you did, my build is going on a year and a half now.
I don't know if you have your ac fittings figured out yet, but I spent several hours recently researching the same subject (I am putting an ac system from an 04 GTO in my 71 Lemans) and came across EZ-Clip fittings by Aeroquip. One of the things that appealed to me about them was they were easy for a home builder, the only special tool required is a pliers for the clips. Go to the Aeroquip website for info on the fittings and pliers, you can order from there also. You do have to use their hose but they sell it by the foot. Aeroquip sells the pliers for $50, but I found pliers and some of the fittings I needed for $5 each, search for seller askacss2012. He now has the pliers for $13.50, still a great deal. I had some similar situations as the two connections you show in post #20, I used the Aeroquip fittings at these locations, I just cut the nut off the fitting since those flat plates will hold the fitting on.
For the compressor connection I believe you might need something called a compressor block. This bolts onto the compressor where the fluid lines go in and provides threaded bosses for the hose fittings. You will need to get a block for your particular compressor. I bought my block on ebay through seller airpartsinc.
I don't know if you have your ac fittings figured out yet, but I spent several hours recently researching the same subject (I am putting an ac system from an 04 GTO in my 71 Lemans) and came across EZ-Clip fittings by Aeroquip. One of the things that appealed to me about them was they were easy for a home builder, the only special tool required is a pliers for the clips. Go to the Aeroquip website for info on the fittings and pliers, you can order from there also. You do have to use their hose but they sell it by the foot. Aeroquip sells the pliers for $50, but I found pliers and some of the fittings I needed for $5 each, search for seller askacss2012. He now has the pliers for $13.50, still a great deal. I had some similar situations as the two connections you show in post #20, I used the Aeroquip fittings at these locations, I just cut the nut off the fitting since those flat plates will hold the fitting on.
For the compressor connection I believe you might need something called a compressor block. This bolts onto the compressor where the fluid lines go in and provides threaded bosses for the hose fittings. You will need to get a block for your particular compressor. I bought my block on ebay through seller airpartsinc.
03-04-2013, 08:13 PM
#67
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Alan
03-07-2013, 05:32 AM
#68
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I got the check engine light to work and got rid if the PO650 code. I am still working on the tach and can't seem to get it to work. I connected it up on the 4 cylinder set up like mention online but nothing so far. Any suggestions?
I have 2 other fault codes PO172 and PO175 that tell me it is running rich. Not sure how to resolve that except for having the tune checked. Are there any good tuners in southern Indiana?
I have 2 other fault codes PO172 and PO175 that tell me it is running rich. Not sure how to resolve that except for having the tune checked. Are there any good tuners in southern Indiana?
03-08-2013, 12:41 PM
#73
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Would you be able to take a couple pictures to show the AC brackets? I'm trying to get that sorted out on my build right now.
Also, just my $.02, but one long day to get your car running spot on from a reputable tuner sounds reasonable to me.
Also, just my $.02, but one long day to get your car running spot on from a reputable tuner sounds reasonable to me.
03-08-2013, 04:36 PM
#74
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Here are some pics of what I did. I used the GTO bracket and made a bracket from that to mount to. I also used a smaller compressor that I got from a friend. I hope this helps. I think it made a good install nows to get the fittings and connect it all together.
03-08-2013, 10:05 PM
#75
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Just happened across your build. nice chevelle. I'm close behind you. hope to crank mine for the first time in a week or so.
Richie Cole@ Bischoff Engines has a good tuner rep. May be close to you.
I'm in Cincinnati, oh. Tracy Scott has helped me a bunch during my wiring task. Tracy is at Cincy Speed here in Cinti. He has Dyno and tunes as well. I,ve been told. Dyno is well worth the money for tuning. even if not searching for H.P.. Being able to adjust drivability type things is a big plus that can all be done on dyno. Tracy will do my car for sure.
Richie was a name recomended by many in this area too.
Good luck, hope this might help a little.
Darrell
Richie Cole@ Bischoff Engines has a good tuner rep. May be close to you.
I'm in Cincinnati, oh. Tracy Scott has helped me a bunch during my wiring task. Tracy is at Cincy Speed here in Cinti. He has Dyno and tunes as well. I,ve been told. Dyno is well worth the money for tuning. even if not searching for H.P.. Being able to adjust drivability type things is a big plus that can all be done on dyno. Tracy will do my car for sure.
Richie was a name recomended by many in this area too.
Good luck, hope this might help a little.
Darrell
03-09-2013, 07:40 AM
#76
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Just happened across your build. nice chevelle. I'm close behind you. hope to crank mine for the first time in a week or so.
Richie Cole@ Bischoff Engines has a good tuner rep. May be close to you.
I'm in Cincinnati, oh. Tracy Scott has helped me a bunch during my wiring task. Tracy is at Cincy Speed here in Cinti. He has Dyno and tunes as well. I,ve been told. Dyno is well worth the money for tuning. even if not searching for H.P.. Being able to adjust drivability type things is a big plus that can all be done on dyno. Tracy will do my car for sure.
Richie was a name recomended by many in this area too.
Good luck, hope this might help a little.
Darrell
Richie Cole@ Bischoff Engines has a good tuner rep. May be close to you.
I'm in Cincinnati, oh. Tracy Scott has helped me a bunch during my wiring task. Tracy is at Cincy Speed here in Cinti. He has Dyno and tunes as well. I,ve been told. Dyno is well worth the money for tuning. even if not searching for H.P.. Being able to adjust drivability type things is a big plus that can all be done on dyno. Tracy will do my car for sure.
Richie was a name recomended by many in this area too.
Good luck, hope this might help a little.
Darrell
03-11-2013, 05:31 AM
#77
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Started to wire up the Vintage air but the wiring does not tell you how to connect the computer to the system. What does the computer need to know that the ac is on? And where is the best place to get that signal? I believe if the computer knows the A/C is it kicks on a fan and adjust the the engine rpm to correct for the extra load. Is this correct?
Thanks for the help,
Alan
Thanks for the help,
Alan
03-11-2013, 06:10 AM
#78
I think you can tap into the wire that runs to the condenser or whatever it is with the pressure sensor, but that might be harness-specific, I don't know. I'm not in a position to look at mine but I'm pretty sure there is a signal coming out of the part of the system by the radiator, mine has two white wires coming out of the top of a solenoid or something and there is a dark blue wire somewhere which I think is the VA hot? Haven't paid attention to it in a couple years, sorry for being so vague. This might help http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-fact...ir-system.html
03-11-2013, 01:06 PM
#79
Mind you that my car is not running yet but here is what I am doing. I have nothing from the A/C going to my E38 computer. Regarding the fan coming on I have the same wire that supplies voltage to the A/C compressor also pulls in a relay. That relay engages the fan relay to come on and turns on the fan.
As to the idle rpm I am hoping that having it set at say 750 rpm so when the compressor engages the computer will open the throttle blade to get back to the 750rpm.
As to the idle rpm I am hoping that having it set at say 750 rpm so when the compressor engages the computer will open the throttle blade to get back to the 750rpm.
03-11-2013, 04:00 PM
#80
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I asked the same question a while back and got some good replies. I also found an older thread and posted the link with more good info. Basically you use the factory AC compressor signal and tie it into the VA system.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ge-air-ac.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ge-air-ac.html