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G-body swap **having issues**

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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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Default G-body swap **having issues**

Ok the car is a 78 Malibu using the stock clam shell mounts. We ordered the transdapt adapter plates that bolt to the block and then you bolt the factory bracket to that. The engine is a 6.0 iron block with a LS1 fbody oil pan. I sat the motor in and finally got it lined up with the mounts and bolted in. The oil pan is hitting the crossmember, but just barely on the passenger side front of the sump. Without me there my friend (its his car) decided to put the transmission in. He could not get the bellhousing up high enough to bolt to the engine. He said the bellhousing was hitting the floor pan and the engine needed to drop down in the rear. So he pulled the motor mount bolts out and raised the front of the engine with the engine lift so that the rear would drop back down and he could bolt up the trans. Once he got the trans bolted up he could not get the engine back on the mounts. I went by yesterday and the pan is sitting on the cross member, the transmission is up against the trans tunnel (in the back) and the mounts aren't even close to lining back up. The motor needs to go back at least an inch for the pan to clear the crossmember.

I have heard that Transdapt makes another engine mount adapter plate that will sit the engine back another inch. We have the hedman 1-7/8 swap headers, but I'm worried if I move the engine back will this cause clearance issues with the headers??

Anybody have any ideas as to WTF is going on? This should have been an EASY engine swap from what I've seen and read on the web. Why is it being such a pain in the ***? Am I missing something?
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 08:41 PM
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Did you use the set back mounts? I have 1in setback mounts (stock clamshell) and I am using the Holley LSx pan. I have no clearance issues at all, I also have the Headman mid lengths again with no clearance issues.
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 08:42 PM
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Not sure on the transdapt mounts, but I used Dingo mounts with the F-body pan and ran into the same issue. Went with the CTS-V pan and it fits perfect. Im sure others can chime in on the F-body pan.

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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by N20zuki
Did you use the set back mounts? I have 1in setback mounts (stock clamshell) and I am using the Holley LSx pan. I have no clearance issues at all, I also have the Headman mid lengths again with no clearance issues.
No I didn't use the set back mounts. That was part of the point of this post. To be sure that if I buy the set back mounts that it will clear the fbody pan and that the 1-7/8 longtubes will clear as well. I was told the fbody pan and the regular transdapt mounts would work fine....not so much!

The Holley pan is too pricey. The sump on the Holley pan is a helluva lot shorter from front to back that is why you have zero clearance issues. I believe it measure 7.xx" where the cts-v is 10.5" and the fbody pan is 11"..
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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I used the SBC->LS Plates you find on Ebay with the stock Clam Shells..GM Muscle Car Pan Kit, and the Heddman 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers. The Headers clear everything by like 1/8", if it was any more forward or to the rear they wouldn't clear. Zero issues with Oil Pan clearance.





The Headers went in right after that pic..took 5 min..lol
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 09:45 PM
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The Merv - How much clearance do you have between the front of the oil pans sump and the crossmember??

Also, did you keep the alternator on the bottom drivers side of the engine? Cause the steering box is all up in the way.
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 11:28 PM
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Atleast an inch..plenty of room.

Those are factory LS1 Fbody Accessories..no issues with clearance.

Here's the best pic I have..I was doing a Cam Swap..




IMO these "Setback" Mounts are garbage. I used the normal $35 ones you find on Ebay, and have had zero issues.
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Old Mar 3, 2013 | 11:40 PM
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Here's a shot of where the Headers sit..



Literally every forward and back clearance is 1/8"..they are tight in there and must have been built with respect to the plates I used.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 06:07 AM
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I shouldn't matter really but what trans are you running behind that 6.0? I'm running a 5.3/4L80E with cheap (non-setback) adapter plates like the_Merv and the AutoKraft pan with no clearance issues. I did have to elongate the holes on my frame for everything to line up nicely. Some adapter plates take into consideration the thickness of the plate and move the holes down just that little bit needed...mine didn't so my frame had to adjust. I'm not familiar with the trans-dapt units but that could be why your angles are off. Also, make sure your adapters are on the proper side...one of the brands fits better if the brand name is up-side-down but I don't remember what brand that is.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 07:35 AM
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Sounds like I need to get rid of the ls1 fbody pan.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 11:46 AM
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Yes, get rid of it. I tried to work with it and had no luck.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 03:31 PM
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Ctsv pan fits good....
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 1QuickT-A
Sounds like I need to get rid of the ls1 fbody pan.
It will sell quick on this board...it fits many other cars well. If you still have the truck pan, you could also cut the bottom out and shorten the sump if you can weld aluminum and are confident in shortening the stock pickup tube as well.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by pmgm
Ctsv pan fits good....
x2... BUT i did use the 1in setback plates and relocated my alt and clearance my non a/c hvac box. Plenty of clearance for the oil pan and trans which i mocked up at the time 4l65E, gonna mock up my t56 later. The hvac clearance was minimal and i used the alt relocation bracket from speedway motors.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:53 PM
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This is a 408 motor with LS3 heads. Carbed. Meziere Electric Race Pump. No power steering or a/c. Just an alternator. Was hoping to mount it down low on driver side, but the steering box is all up in the way. Any suggestions?? Anybody running an elec race pump with just an alternator?

I'm doing all of this for a friend. I've been in the LS world for a while now. Have my own car (98 Z28 5 sec 1/8th mile car). I knew this should have been an easy swap, but I guess I went the wrong way with the fbody pan. Easy fix though. I'll order the GM swap pan from summit for $150 and I'll give him his money back for the LS pan. I need one for my car....wheelies claimed mine twice.
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Old Mar 4, 2013 | 10:55 PM
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MERV - does the GM swap pan from summit come with a pick up tube? The pic on summit doesn't show the pick up tube, but the description says it comes with one.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 12:07 PM
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I got mine from the Dealership cheaper than anyone online..it comes with everything.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 03:04 PM
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I'm assuming the pick up tube and tray is different than ls1 fbody stuff?
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 05:07 PM
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I did my swap back in 2002 when there weren't aftermarket musclecar pans. Cut & reboxed crossmember.
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Old Mar 5, 2013 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 1QuickT-A
This is a 408 motor with LS3 heads. Carbed. Meziere Electric Race Pump. No power steering or a/c. Just an alternator. Was hoping to mount it down low on driver side, but the steering box is all up in the way. Any suggestions?? Anybody running an elec race pump with just an alternator?
Make a bracket to mount the alt on the passenger side down low where the truck engine had the AC compressor mounted. Might be able to mod the stock AC bracket, actually...it has its own belt tensioner too.
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