98SSClone

iTrader: (2)

Hey everyone,

I recently (last year) built a 98 Camaro with a H/C/I LQ4, built 4L60E, and a Moser 9". I've almost got all of the bugs worked out in it, but I've been eyeing the LSx Fox builds.

I'm kinda on the fence right now, but I'm almost positive I can part out my car and fund most of the Mustang build. I can either sell my car as a roller, or part it out. I'm thinking I can possibly get into the 10s with my drivetrain setup in a Mustang.

If I go this route, I have quite a few parts from the Camaro I can sell.
(Not for sale yet, so no PMs or posts asking about them)
-Spohn Solid Engine Mounts
-Spohn Chassis Mount TA
-Spohn DA Control Arms
-Spohn DA Panhard Rod
-Moser 9" w/3.73s and a spool
-Hooker 1-7/8 Stainless Long Tubes
-Flowmaster 3" in/4" out Merge Pipe
-PST 4" Chromemoly Driveshaft
-4" (I think) Fiberglass Cowl Hood--Unpainted
-Misc. body parts/interior items

I just want something smaller and lighter. There's quite a few parts from the Camaro I can use on the Mustang build also.
-Radiator w/fans
-Engine
-Transmission
-Wheels/Tires (if I convert Mustang to Chevy lug pattern)
-ECM w/harness

I'm positive I missed a few items on both lists, but you get the general idea.

The engine/trans setup I have has gone 11.20s in a 3300lb car (previous owner), so I don't see why it wouldn't be able to hit 10s in a lighter car.

Engine/Trans
-Stock LQ4 Short block
-PRC LS6 Stg 2.5s
-TSP 233/239 Cam (Subject to change upon engine removal)
-FAST 102/PTM 102
-TSP 100mm MAF
-44lb Injectors
-Performabuilt Lv2 4L60e
-Yank SS4000
-and a few other things

It runs great and has a lot of power. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get it to the track for time slips to see what it will run. The one time I took it to the track, it snapped the wheel studs on the left rear. Not sure why. Lugs were torqued properly, tires still full of air (no pressure dropped), etc. I launched it and they broke. Just haven't got around to buying more. I just put stock ones in it so I can drive it.

I'm leaning really heavily toward the Fox build everytime I think about it. Just don't have the time/place at the moment to pull the trigger on it, but that will change by the end of the year.

Let me know what you guys think. I think it would be pretty bad *** in a Mustang.

Thanks,

Derek

Rpayne41985

iTrader: (12)

you cant go wrong with a foxbody I was in the same boat as you and I put everything into a foxbody and it was the best decision I EVER MADE. I don't think you will have any problem getting into the 10's I did it came only in my fox

Sube

iTrader: (14)

I'm actually in the process of doing this myself. I've been waiting for good weather so I can start parting out my car. I'm looking to do the swap in a 99-04 mustang instead of a foxbody. It's about the same amount of money in doing the swap. It's pretty hard to find a foxbody in good condition without spending a pretty penny for one. One thing, I have a PST driveshaft and I'm hoping to have a shop modify it to work on a mustang.

98SSClone

iTrader: (2)

Rpayne, I'm hoping I'll be able to get into the 10s. You're quite a bit lighter than I'll be on the drivetrain though. I'm running an iron block and a 4L60E compared to your aluminum block and TH-350. Might not make that much of a difference, but there's only one way to find out.

Sube, they're pretty plentiful around here where I am. I've seen decent ones range from $500 rollers to $2000 unmolested 4-bangers with like 70k miles on them. They're not too hard to come by around here. I'm just hoping I can find these deals if/when I'm ready to buy one.

I wish I could get my car on a dyno to see what kinda numbers it puts down. Desktop dyno says it's around 530ish at the crank... but idk how accurate that is.

Sube

iTrader: (14)

That would be around 450hp with 15% drive train loss, but it might be a little more with an automatic transmission. Around here good foxbodies are around 2500, or I can pick up a decent 99 for 4000 and sell the motor and transmission to make some money back.

stangtrader

iTrader: (2)

I say do it as well.im in the same process and for the most part im glad to be getting rid of my fbody.the cars a nightmare to work on and foxes are just so easy

98SSClone

iTrader: (2)

Sube- Yeah, that was my guess on the RWHP estimate. I'm sure it will read low if I dyno my car since I have a big stall and a 9". 2500 isn't THAT bad for a clean Fox. I've seen some nice rollers around here for less than 1000. I'd end up selling what I didn't use.. i.e engine, trans, wiring, etc. I just wouldn't want an SN95 since they're heavier than a fox.. it would kinda defeat the purpose. I mean, it would still be lighter, but heavier than I'd want it to be.

stangtrader- I agree on F-body's being a pain in the *** to work on. The fuel rails are a bitch to do anything with. That's the only thing on mine I've had to mess with under the hood. The rest of the stuff I had to do was under the car itself... The gas tank isn't fun to take out... Lol.

I have an issue right now with my fuel injectors. I need to get the 1/2" spacers since the previous owner just put fatter o-rings on the bottom of the injectors instead. It keeps blowing the o-rings out on the top. Probably doesn't help that I'm running a Walbro fuel pump with no regulator... lol. It runs fine, but I'm in process of buying the parts to fix all of that.

I just need wheel studs, injector spacers, and a regulator. After that, my car will more reliable to drive around. It's fast and pulls like a freight train, I just think it would perform a lot better in a lighter car.

I think I'd be pushing 3800-4000lbs in my car if I put a cage in it with all of the factory interior. That's why the Mustang seems like a good idea. I've seen a few cars that weighed ~3000lbs with a cage and a nice looking (not stripped) interior.

I want to be able to comfortably (somewhat) drive the car whenever I want. The more I think about it, the more I want to do it.

The only thing I really have to wait for is the space and time to do it...

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I'm pretty sure I have read up enough on the swap to know what I need for it.

Swap Parts:
-AJE K-member
-AJE Control Arms (coil overs)
-AJE Trans. Crossmember
-Headers (Kooks or Dynatech---Stainless either way)

I'll already have the regulator for the fuel system. I'm trying to research how I want to do the fuel system. I'm leaning toward just using a Walbro in tank. Can I use the F-body one?

Idk, I'm still researching things. I don't have much more I need to figure out. Like I said before, just waiting on the time and place to do it.

booboo37

iTrader: (43)

Just make sure you stay far away from the Team Z k-member with ls motor mounts...

Sube

iTrader: (14)

You might want to call FAST about the spacers. What I did with my Fast102 was use a stock ls2/ls3 fuel rail with my ls1 injectors. I got the different o-ring to work with the fuel rail and then called FAST for fuel rail spacers to raise the fuel rail for the taller ls1 style injectors.

98SSClone

iTrader: (2)

booboo37- I'm gonna use the AJE stuff when I do the swap.

Sube- My problem is that my injectors are too short. I have FAST fuel rails on mine. I just need the 1/2" spacer to seat the injectors all the way. I tried the spacers that FAST makes, but the bottom of my injectors wont fit in them. I need the ones from fuelinjectorconnection that fit on the top of the injector.

I got permission from the wife to do the swap. Her only conditions were that I have to get rid of my Camaro first. Lol.