snook

iTrader: (1)

That's exactly how mine was. They just rebox gm's package. I complained and they sent a new one. If you bend it back it will likely break

Bowtie316

iTrader: (1)

I used the trans-dapt conversion mounts with the CPW poly 2.8 mounts and had no issues, but if I were to do it over again, I would just get the complete CPW mount set.

Don't waste your time on the stock 2.8 mounts, I tried that, they are now in my scrap pile.

tomstark

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I sent Jegs a polite message of how unhappy I was. They apologized and said that that are already boxed up from gm and ship them as is. Pretty dumb that they just leave all the bolts and parts loose to rattle around. Fortunately they offered to replace any or all broken parts. I've been working on the boat trailer all morning, so when I get a chance I'll look everything over real well.

Ahh, didn't see that mount option on cpw. So both set of mounts for $130? Can anyone confirm that those racing innovation shorty headers will work with the cpw mounts? If they do, I'd like to order everything this weekend.

ZQ8LS1

iTrader: (3)

Yes the RI headers will work with CPW mounts,they are exact copys of Sandersons.

I have them on mine & work great.

Just a word from somone who has been there...make sure to use Stage 8 locks at the head & collectors & also use flex pipe after the headers or the collector bolts come loose.

If I ever remove my headers again I am gonna use V band clamps instead of the 3 bolt collector.



The CPW mounts do not allow the motor to move AT ALL so the vibration tends to loosen the collector bolts up enough to cause a leak.

tomstark

iTrader: (2)

Just ordered the cpw mounts. Was about to order the RI headers, but the shipping is another 23 bucks. Yes, I'm that cheap, lol. I'll probably end up buying them anyway since they're stainless and appear to have o2 bungs on them. I thought I saw some ebay headers for 200 bucks or less though, but I can't find them anymore. We still need to pull the 2.2 engine and trans, but I think there's still fuel lines on the tranny that need to come off first.

snook

iTrader: (1)

I agree on the collector bolts, save headache and time buying the locking setup for them. I use header buddies when I had a 3 bolt flange style, summit has them too

http://www.headerbuddy.com/cgi-bin/e...category;v=2.0

You can still cut small lines in the heads of the longer bolts for header buddies and use the stage 8 clip, used a cut off wheel and did mine.

ZQ8LS1

iTrader: (3)

Dont let $23 stop you.

tomstark

iTrader: (2)

I don't think I will. I just found those headers I was looking for on ebay and they're the same ones, but ten bucks more. We'll probably order them this week from their website.

Well, after a couple more hours tonight we got the engine and tranny out... These 2.2's are a pain in the rear end without a lift and power tools.

The mounts should be here Thursday, but we still need a bell-housing for mock-up. The 5.3 needs a crank still, but I've been looking for another short-block since it won't cost much more.

EDIT: It looks like the collectors that come with the headers are stainless, so I think we'd have to do stainless exhaust tube to the y-pipe; which brings up another question. Does anyone know where I can get a cheap 2.5" to 3.5" y-pipe adapter? Just something like the first one in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-mergers.html

Sorry for poor pics; phone is terrible in low light.

tomstark

iTrader: (2)

I work an extra hour, so I guess Daddio got bored and started cutting today. Mounts will be here tomorrow, although we'll be going to a local ski show in the evening. Might start mock-up on Friday...

00MaroonZ28

iTrader: (3)

Neat build. Keep us posted.

tomstark

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, Doug... Been really busy with other family stuff the last few weeks, as well as looking for a trans, engine, etc. I finally picked up a 4l60e this week that needs a rebuild, but it has the correct bell-housing that we need for a V8 engine.

So, my dad gutted the sonoma trans and swapped housings so we could mock it up. I ordered the headers this week and they came yesterday (pleasantly surprised!). He already had his 5.3 torn apart since it needs a crank, so we put the heads on and, after some time spent wiggling things around, we got the engine and trans bolted together.

The 4 cylinder transmission cross-member seems like it will work, and the engine/conversion mounts work nice (had to tap 3 existing holes on each side of the cradle with an M10x1.5 which was a quick job). Also, that GM performance conversion oil pan looks great with no clearance issues! When we put everything back together we'll probably install the tranny afterwards just to make it easier though.

There's not much room in the back, and we'll probably have to clearance some things. As for the headers, the passenger side won't bolt right in with the Racing Innovation shorty's. The rectangle boss from the engine casting hits it, but we will just cut that off.

On the drivers side, we'll need to do something about the steering shaft. Luckily there's plenty of room to move it outwards. We were thinking of using 2-3 joints to move it out another 2 inches or so. I remember reading others doing this, and some people mentioned using a shaft from a Jeep??

Also, we tried putting an a/c compressor on with the engine, but it hits on the front side. If we cut anymore we'll have to move the idler arm mount though. Suggestions?

We just looked at an '01 silverado with a 5.3 that a guy was parting out for a good price. I forgot to ask him to not start it until we get there, and sure enough, it had been running for probably a good 20 minutes when we arrived. It didn't matter though because we could hear a knock in the bottom end (Oil was black)... Disappointed about that, but we really didn't want another engine that needed work.

Anyway, that's where we sit. So we've got some work to do before getting a running engine to stick in it anyway.







The square/rectangle part sticking out of the top of the block, which is just under the rear exhaust outlet needs to be cut off.

T76s10

iTrader: (6)

Why would you need a different shaft? The swap headers will work without modifications. All you need to do is unbolt the shaft from the power steering box and move it outward to squeeze the header in place

snook

iTrader: (1)

Don't know much about the shaft on 2nd generations, but I used the jeep shaft on my first gen to get more clearance

http://bangshift.com/blog/driveway-t...rag-joint.html

tomstark

iTrader: (2)

Will try that when we get a chance. It just doesn't look like there's much room, and I don't want to dent the headers.