LS1 Into 64 Impala
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2013
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LS1 Into 64 Impala Hey guys,
Iv got a Holden (Pontiac GTO in USA i think) LS1. 5.7L all alloy etc.
Putting it into a 64 Impala.
Have the engine mounts but my sump wont clear as its front sump.
Whats the best rear sump to use that WONT hang below the xmember. As from what iv read some do.
Theres so many options just want to make sure i get the right one as live out of USA and need to get it shipped down.
Thanks in advance
Iv got a Holden (Pontiac GTO in USA i think) LS1. 5.7L all alloy etc.
Putting it into a 64 Impala.
Have the engine mounts but my sump wont clear as its front sump.
Whats the best rear sump to use that WONT hang below the xmember. As from what iv read some do.
Theres so many options just want to make sure i get the right one as live out of USA and need to get it shipped down.
Thanks in advance
I used a F-Body pan on my 62 Chev Biscayne, I had 2 choices for the engine mounts, I could either build then up 1 inch of out a 1 inch spacer between the frame and mount. I was told that a Hollay retro fit pan would work, but they are kind of pricey. For headers I used ls-1 s-10 headers and they fit pretty good with a bunch of room to spare. I used a 700r4 trans crossmember as the transmission is the same dimensions as a 4l60-e.
I'd say a '98-'02 F Body pan will work the best and not hang below the crossmember. I helped a buddy put a 5.3 in a '59 Chevy, frame should be similar, and it worked good, but he did have to shim the engine stands up a bit.
I didn't cut the frame or heat/beat on it. I built up the factory v-8 frames mounts 1 inch.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 92
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From: griffith, IN
Im doing the same swap, im not real sure how you link the build thread but I used the holley pan and spaced up my frame stands bout 3/8 and I heated the center of the cross member up a little bit and beat it down a touch.
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I mocked up a bare 5.3 block and truck oil pan into a spare frame several months back using stock V8 frame stands/mounts and no-name mount adapters bought off ebay a long time back.....the oil pan cleared the crossmember fine. It was close, but not touching. I didn't raise the stands any. I don't remember how far the pan hung down below the crossmember, but I do remember it bolted right down onto the mounts. Reading all the problems ya'll are having has me confused as to how mine could have fit. I will try to go mock it up in the spare frame again and take some pictures this time.
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Well I'm a cheap pr!ick. I could have spent a grand for headers etc, but I was on another forum ( impalas) and one guy posted up some pics of his swap, his brother was building a s- truck and for kicks they tried the s series headers on the impala and tey fit. So I bought them on e-bay. And since they are stainless, comes with 02 bungs,bolts gaskets , what the heck. I'm pretty happy with them. Also that worked i my favor was on my I bought a 04 GTO for my Typhoon and I used a 2001 Vette for the Biscayne. I swapped all the drives from one engine to the other and they both work well. Nothing wrong with swapping engines, but I don't understand why some people spend thousands of dollars, when with some time/research it can save a bunch of money.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2013
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Nice so the mounts spaced up a inch, f body sump and s10 headers and I should be all sorted.
Running 700R4 with the bowtie industries xmember so that shouldnt be a issue.
Thanks heaps for your help, S10 headers look a heap cheaper !
Running 700R4 with the bowtie industries xmember so that shouldnt be a issue.
Thanks heaps for your help, S10 headers look a heap cheaper !
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2013
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can you remember what sort of s10 headers you got? Short, block hugger? Etc.
Sorry for all the questions have to order and get shipped to our country which costs a bit so want to make sure i get it right!
Sorry for all the questions have to order and get shipped to our country which costs a bit so want to make sure i get it right!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-S10-Stainless-Chevrolet-Engine-Swap-Headers-1982-04-/130987787615?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7f7b055f&vxp=mtr#ht_2605wt_1028
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2013
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Cheers man, bought some of those headers and got them sent to NZ, fits sweet.
Used the F Body sump and spaced it up about 15mm and all is good,
Running 700r4 with a 7004/sbc transmount which needs to be modified slightly to suit the ls1/700r4 combo but aside from that works great!
Used the F Body sump and spaced it up about 15mm and all is good,
Running 700r4 with a 7004/sbc transmount which needs to be modified slightly to suit the ls1/700r4 combo but aside from that works great!
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Suburb of Detroit
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2014
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Huummm. but the photo that stormed_norm posted of his car shows the forward two pipes on the drivers side to be tucked in behind the rear two. the S-10 headers linked do not.
I'll be (hopefully, as I already bought them) using the S-10 headers on my 59 also, and they should still work fine, but they apparently have changed that design slightly since Norm bought his.
I'll be (hopefully, as I already bought them) using the S-10 headers on my 59 also, and they should still work fine, but they apparently have changed that design slightly since Norm bought his.
Last edited by 59belair; Jan 20, 2014 at 11:16 AM. Reason: cuz
Huummm. but the photo that stormed_norm posted of his car shows the forward two pipes on the drivers side to be tucked in behind the rear two. the S-10 headers linked do not.
I'll be (hopefully, as I already bought them) using the S-10 headers on my 59 also, and they should still work fine, but they apparently have changed that design slightly since Norm bought his.
I'll be (hopefully, as I already bought them) using the S-10 headers on my 59 also, and they should still work fine, but they apparently have changed that design slightly since Norm bought his.