When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ryan,
Not to criticize, but I would turn up the welder and down on the wire. If it is as high as it will go, try using a propane or MAP torch to preheat prior. I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of the log welds break after many heat cycles.
Love the thread. Great score on the seats!!!@
I know, those were pretty early welds.... they've held up fine so far... I've learned a lot since those welds... I'm not worried about it.
New addition to the family...
It's a Chance Transmissions single disc billet. 245mm. Made by the same family as Niel Chance Racing Converters (not the same company though). They had a great price, and are down the street, and have always taken great care of all my transmission needs. Going back in this weekend hopefully.
Last edited by ryanleiker; 03-08-2017 at 08:26 AM.
Those 2x4 "DSE blocks" are great for setting up ride height etc.. simple, cheaper, sturdy... my car sat on them for more years than I'd like to admit!
Curious what the assembly of hose & pipe fittings is for? Restriction to limit boost air line pulses?
I did the vacuum modulator modification to my 4l80e that replaces the pressure solenoid. The check valve itself is for bleeding off boost to keep it from damaging the modulator diaphragm. the orific fitting is to limit the pure volume of air interacting with the modulator and check valve. The tubing fittings on the end are to integrate into my existing vacuum system, as I've virtually eliminated all rubber lines and hose clamps from my engine is exchange for the push-connect fittings, with nylon line, you see here.
Ahh okay, cool to know.. I know next to nothing about how automatics operate or are hooked up haha. Great idea about the push-connect nylon tube.. I have a ton of nickel plated 1/4" push fittings from when I did onbaord air on my truck, so at some point I'll also switch over all the boost rubber hoses & barbs to nylon push-connect style.
So I finally got my transmission and stall converter in. No real changes in the driveline other than the converter, but MAN!!, what a difference. Should have done this a long time ago.
I felt that, with the ability to go faster, I should be able to stop faster, so I upgraded finally to even bigger and more capable brakes.
I got my hands on a set of CPP C5 spindles with bearings, that I got for a good deal on. Stored them for a while until I found a wicked deal on a C5/F-body setup of Hawk Performance drilled and slotted rotors and pads. With the purchase I got a set of C5 front calipers as well.
The new spindle/hubs pulled the rotor face in 3/8" which I needed to do anyway. I also went from stock f-body rotors, 11.8", to drilled and slotted C5 rotors, 12.8". So needless to say, these new brakes stop stupid fast. Makes my high speed pulls feel more secure, knowing I can slow it all down quicker.
That's a real nice upgrade. Is the CPP spindle tall and are you combining it with a tall upper balljoint too?
-Well, here's where I was...
I had stock spindles with Extra tall (1.5") ball joints from SC&C along with SPC upper control arms.
-I went to...
CPP C5 Spindle(1" taller than stock), and 0.5' tall ball joint. This should land me back to the same place.
-Because I don't like how close my wheel is to my control arms at lock, I may change to the Guldstrand mod and go back to stock height ball joint, keeping the 1" taller CPP C5 spindle.
-Because I don't like how close my wheel is to my control arms at lock, I may change to the Guldstrand mod and go back to stock height ball joint, keeping the 1" taller CPP C5 spindle.
The UCA was the driving constraint for when I wanted to widen my front rims beyond 8" wide.. and I have short OEM drum spindles and the Guldstrand mod.. I'd definitely recommend lowering the UCA (while maintaining close to the same static UCA angle) to improve steering angle or future wider rims.
The UCA was the driving constraint for when I wanted to widen my front rims beyond 8" wide.. and I have short OEM drum spindles and the Guldstrand mod.. I'd definitely recommend lowering the UCA (while maintaining close to the same static UCA angle) to improve steering angle or future wider rims.
I've actually spaced down the ball joint mount on the UCA, which gives me an almost comfortable amount of clearance at full lock.
I'm almost sure if I go with a stock height screw-in ball joint, and the guldstrand mod, I'd be in the clear.
I'll drive it for now and see if I need to change it later.
I'd really like to move onto interior and stop messing with all this wheel clearance junk.
So the car moved under it's own power for the first time all winter. Cruised with some friends. But the car just felt wrong... it was just blowing through the clutches under any sort of power. It just felt like it was going to leave me stranded, so I made an executive decision and pulled the transmission again.
I took it to a reputable local guy that builds transmissions and he tore it apart. Found out I made a couple destructive mistakes:
-The intermediate sprag was in backwards, it rolled and trashed the direct drum.
-The intermediate clutch pressure plate was in upside down.
Needless to say, I may never be doing that on my own again.
More money, a little more down time and it should be perfect again soon.
Made another executive decision... I think it's finally time to stop fighting the tall upper ball joint scenario and go ahead and perform the guldstrand mod and go back to stock size upper ball joints. I think this will get me to where I want with the CPP C5 spindles.
I think Rodney Prouty ran a similar setup for a while with good results.
I've got a Cars and Coffee on March 18th that is my first deadline for the season. Pulling out all the stops to make this happen. These are my favorite cruises in town, so I don't like to miss them.
Doesn't TCI offer narrowed /clearanced UCA & LCAs for 1st gen Fbody platform ???
Actually a few companies offer higher clearance control arms compared to the SPC arms. But I like the design and the infinite adjustability.
Also, running 9.5" wide rims becomes a struggle in so many other places than just control arms. I guess I just like the challenge of spending little money for ultimate performance.
Lookin' good! Does this mean the transmission is sorted out?
Sort of...
When I got it on the road and took it for a cruise, it didn't seem to hold any power in any gear, like it just let go, not even slipped.
I knew it would leave me stranded, so I went ahead and pulled it... again... and had an expert look at it.
Apparently I put the intermediate sprag in backwards and it rolled and trashed the direct drum. And the intermediate clutch pressure plate was in upside down, which caused the clutches to bow out and eat themselves. I doubt I'll ever try to do that job by myself again.
I'm currently having it rebuilt with much better parts by said expert and it should be perfect and ready to go in the coming days.
Alright... so transmission has been back in for a few weeks now with the Chance Transmission single disc billet converter (~3600 stall). This thing is so much fun to drive now.
I've been locking in the new fuel curve to match the stall. I've also been honing more of my tuning skills by playing with the timing curve a lot. I can't believe how much ignition timing can do to wake up a vehicle.
Currently just enjoying the car a lot and planning the next phase of improvements. Looking at the Guldstrand mod soon and then hopefully can start in on the interior, creature comforts, and wiring.
I wish I had the cash to go get all the screwed up sheet metal replaced and then start rebuilding a solid shell... maybe next winter... I just love driving this beast for now, so I'm trying to keep the downtime to a minimum.
*Also... has anyone had any squealing issues with Hawk Performance rear brake pads?*
12-15-2016, 11:49 AM
