1972 LQ4 Turbo Nova
#162
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Not much to update except some venting...
I ran into an issue with my axle bearings and housing ends, which i resolved with some shims that I made from retainer plates.
Turns out my driveshaft is now about 1.5" shorter than it needs to be to reach my 9" pinion yoke versus my 8.5" 10-bolt, as well as needing a conversion u-joint, as well as being stock and just waiting to twist into a pretzel under a hard shift...
So I will now be waiting for another two weeks for a new 3" chromoly shaft from Strange to come in. Ugh... I hate all this waiting...
In the meantime I think I'll buy and modify some subframe connectors and maybe some exhaust, as well as swap out my "Nova-disc/drum" master cylinder for a Corvette disc/disc master and an adjustable proportioning valve.
I ran into an issue with my axle bearings and housing ends, which i resolved with some shims that I made from retainer plates.
Turns out my driveshaft is now about 1.5" shorter than it needs to be to reach my 9" pinion yoke versus my 8.5" 10-bolt, as well as needing a conversion u-joint, as well as being stock and just waiting to twist into a pretzel under a hard shift...
So I will now be waiting for another two weeks for a new 3" chromoly shaft from Strange to come in. Ugh... I hate all this waiting...
In the meantime I think I'll buy and modify some subframe connectors and maybe some exhaust, as well as swap out my "Nova-disc/drum" master cylinder for a Corvette disc/disc master and an adjustable proportioning valve.
#168
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What would cause the passenger ride height to be 1/2" lower than the driver's ride height at the front fenderwells?
I do have the turbo and most of the hot side on this side of the engine.
I'll be needing some coilovers pretty soon.
Anyone have any input on front spring rate for Strange double adjustables? I've found that most people at P-T.com are running QA1s but I hear they eventually will leak.
I think the front spring rate is stock at 325-350 lb/in.
I'll also need a front sway bar soon too. I've got just a hair of tire rub on the passenger tire right at the fender lip during sporadic bumps. I might roll them if the coil-overs don't fix it.
I do have the turbo and most of the hot side on this side of the engine.
I'll be needing some coilovers pretty soon.
Anyone have any input on front spring rate for Strange double adjustables? I've found that most people at P-T.com are running QA1s but I hear they eventually will leak.
I think the front spring rate is stock at 325-350 lb/in.
I'll also need a front sway bar soon too. I've got just a hair of tire rub on the passenger tire right at the fender lip during sporadic bumps. I might roll them if the coil-overs don't fix it.
#170
You need to measure from the frame to flat ground to verify this.
If the car was ever in an accident, your fenders could be sitting higher up to compensate for body alignment. These are tweak pretty easy so if one subframe mount or body mount is moved, it will result in a big difference when measuring the ride height at the tires.
#172
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Shout out to LS1NOVA for the hook-up on my Viking Coilovers which might actually show up on Saturday...
I'm looking forward to having this car fully functional where I won't have to spend any more money and keep modifying things... yeah, right.
Anyone know where I can get a cheap 1-1/8" sway bar? maybe a used one?
I'm looking forward to having this car fully functional where I won't have to spend any more money and keep modifying things... yeah, right.
Anyone know where I can get a cheap 1-1/8" sway bar? maybe a used one?
#176
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Alright great thanks for the info. Did you just make your own pushrod or put a washer on the one it came with? Sorry about the questions, i have been planning to do the swap and iv been looking for more specifics
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I made my own pushrod out of 3/8" solid steel rod from the hardware store, beveled the ends and threw it in. The stock rod doesn't fit the deep bores of the booster and MC.
I noticed there was too much preload on the MC from the rod being a touch too long, so I spaced the MC out from the booster with a washer and bolted them back together. Fixed quite a bit. The hard part is getting the pedal where you want it based on how you bolt the booster to the firewall. I ended up with about 3/4" standoffs from the firewall to the mounting plate.
Last edited by ryanleiker; 02-20-2015 at 08:42 PM.
#178
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Ask away... That's why I tried it; to see if I could make it easier and simpler for the next guy.
I made my own pushrod out of 3/8" solid steel rod from the hardware store, beveled the ends and threw it in. The stock rod doesn't fit the deep bores of the booster and MC.
I noticed there was too much preload on the MC from the rod being a touch too long, so I spaced the MC out from the booster with a washer and bolted them back together. Fixed quite a bit. The hard part is getting the pedal where you want it based on how you bolt the booster to the firewall. I ended up with about 3/4" standoffs from the firewall to the mounting plate.
I made my own pushrod out of 3/8" solid steel rod from the hardware store, beveled the ends and threw it in. The stock rod doesn't fit the deep bores of the booster and MC.
I noticed there was too much preload on the MC from the rod being a touch too long, so I spaced the MC out from the booster with a washer and bolted them back together. Fixed quite a bit. The hard part is getting the pedal where you want it based on how you bolt the booster to the firewall. I ended up with about 3/4" standoffs from the firewall to the mounting plate.
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I ended up cutting out the studs from the original pedal assembly that come through the firewall and putting longer bolts in, but it turns out I might have not needed to do that.