Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 98TA6.0
Yeah 1000 is twice as much as I'd pay for an L33 but its good you are heading in the right direction. Honestly if I can't hear it run I wouldn't risk anymore than 400 on a 4.8/5.3.
Well from my research, they aren't very common to find. And I didn't have to shell out any $$. So im ok with it.

What pan are you running on your C-10?
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Old Nov 11, 2013 | 09:26 PM
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clean truck, I am getting ready to do the swap in my 86 now.. what kind of drop do you have? and i am subscribing to this thread!
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 01:02 AM
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Nice truck, this is exactly what I want to do.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by aknovaman
On the lsx motor, what's the AC compressor bracket from?
I need that AC bracket too!
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by static low 92
Well from my research, they aren't very common to find. And I didn't have to shell out any $$. So im ok with it.

What pan are you running on your C-10?

Yeah L33s are good motors. I'm using an H3 pan. You can use your truck pan but you may have to trim the subframe and build your own mounts.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by chevelleluvr
clean truck, I am getting ready to do the swap in my 86 now.. what kind of drop do you have? and i am subscribing to this thread!
Its a 4/6
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 98TA6.0
Yeah L33s are good motors. I'm using an H3 pan. You can use your truck pan but you may have to trim the subframe and build your own mounts.
Well I have the Envoy pan with the huge hole in middle for prop shaft and front sump.

So I've gotta buy a pan. How low does the H3 pan hang below the x-member? Your truck is stock height so it probably doesn't matter, but I can't have anything that can get a hole knocked in it.


Got a lil done last night


Last edited by static low 92; Nov 12, 2013 at 07:57 AM.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 11:40 AM
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mine is dropped about 2" in the front and 3" rear. H3 pan is about a quarter inch below crossmember but i am building a sumpguard out of 1/4" steel later. i built relocation plates from 7/16" steel for the stock motor mounts so it is set pretty low. you can also use the holley muscle car pan. pretty similar in price.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by static low 92
Its a 4/6
It looks good for sure! just dropped mine same thing just gotta get the right tires on there and it will be just how i want it... keep this awesomeness up brother!
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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Couple questions:

I planned on replacing the rings
Part1- Whats a good ring for potential boost
Part2- What should I gap them to.

Does the balancer/lower pulley need to be selected based on the accessories I get (f-body, vette, truck, etc) Probably use the p/s alt bracket I have (truck style) and buy an aftermarket a/c bracket to use an radial compressor high mounted.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 03:35 PM
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Commonly accepted gap is .030. Any premium ring will work well. Yes you will need to use the correct balancer for the accessory setup. Just use the truck accessories. You can even use the factory AC bracket but you will need to cut a lot to make the lines work. KWIK, CPP and Holley make great brackets. I used the Holley bc it more closely resembles the factory stuff.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:18 AM
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Got top end apart. Couple valves look like they have a lil more buildup then the rest. Any opinions?
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:47 AM
  #33  
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Looks fine. I just got my L33 in my truck with a TC78 and a small turbo cam. I LOVE IT! I did LS9s, ARP studs and Tooley springs. Left everything else just as it came from salvage yard. E85 will be next. These engines love boost and will hold up to more than the rest of the truck haha.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by vandal699
Looks fine. I just got my L33 in my truck with a TC78 and a small turbo cam. I LOVE IT! I did LS9s, ARP studs and Tooley springs. Left everything else just as it came from salvage yard. E85 will be next. These engines love boost and will hold up to more than the rest of the truck haha.
Curious what did you do for ecu/harness/injectors? Stock stuff with a tune, or aftermarket?
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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Got lowerend apart. A few pistons look like they had some significant scarring. But cylinder walls look clean. Maybe im just picky.








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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 08:49 PM
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Looks to just be gunk and buildup from a high mileage motor that was not very well maintained..
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BigEd_72455
Looks to just be gunk and buildup from a high mileage motor that was not very well maintained..

Guess the question is would you run these pistons with new rings. Or replace them?

Really don't want to invest in pistons. But don't wanna have issues either
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 10:39 PM
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Have the machine shop mic them for wear, if within acceptable range, re-ring and plop em back in the block.

Question is what do you plan to do with the engine for power levels? Would going ahead and having it bored and putting forged slugs in be of benefit NOW, or could potential damage make the block unusable later by staying with the OEM slugs?

Not questions I can answer because it is not my build or budget that has to be taken into account.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 10:47 PM
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Yeah just rebuild it. Open the rings, new bearings and stud it. I wouldn't put forged pistons unless you wanna do a 347. By then it really isn't a budget build then. That's why I just run them out of the yard. Haven't been disappointed yet.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 10:50 PM
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My 5.3 is only with an oil change and a different set of intake gaskets, new water pump and thermostat, and that is about all for engine mods from when I picked it up. I wish I had the budget to get more done to it, or even go for a turbo build, but I just don't have the resources to toss into a big HP build. I am quite happy with how it is running so far, and with only a couple mods before next season, I should be right where I want to be.
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