Project RIP IT- C-10
Have the machine shop mic them for wear, if within acceptable range, re-ring and plop em back in the block.
Question is what do you plan to do with the engine for power levels? Would going ahead and having it bored and putting forged slugs in be of benefit NOW, or could potential damage make the block unusable later by staying with the OEM slugs?
Not questions I can answer because it is not my build or budget that has to be taken into account.
Question is what do you plan to do with the engine for power levels? Would going ahead and having it bored and putting forged slugs in be of benefit NOW, or could potential damage make the block unusable later by staying with the OEM slugs?
Not questions I can answer because it is not my build or budget that has to be taken into account.
Well, my goal is 500-600 crank hp with more than likely a 70mm.
I really need to get the longblock together to see where the $$ is and if the turbo will be a go or no go.
I really don't want to do stuff twice, so I really am shooting to do the turbo out of the gate.
Spent some time to work on a list. Heres what I have so far
Gaskets:
LS9 head- 90
V/C- 10
V/C grommet- 7
Intake- 22
Oil Pan- 32
Timing Cover- 30
Hard Parts:
Timing Chain LS2 175
ARP Rod bolt 100
LS6 springs 56
Main Bearings 90
Rod Bearings 30
Head Studs ARP 322
Rings ?
Cam-LS6 150ish (used)
Cable TB ?
Injectors 300ish
Fuel Rails ?
Oil Pan/pickup 75
Plugs 40
Wires 60
Intake (ls1 or Edelbrock) Pro Flo XT is so killer and would fill up engine bay better than a stock. But its $550...so probably skip that for now.
I think im going to have the block hot tanked. need to check price for that.
Gaskets:
LS9 head- 90
V/C- 10
V/C grommet- 7
Intake- 22
Oil Pan- 32
Timing Cover- 30
Hard Parts:
Timing Chain LS2 175
ARP Rod bolt 100
LS6 springs 56
Main Bearings 90
Rod Bearings 30
Head Studs ARP 322
Rings ?
Cam-LS6 150ish (used)
Cable TB ?
Injectors 300ish
Fuel Rails ?
Oil Pan/pickup 75
Plugs 40
Wires 60
Intake (ls1 or Edelbrock) Pro Flo XT is so killer and would fill up engine bay better than a stock. But its $550...so probably skip that for now.
I think im going to have the block hot tanked. need to check price for that.
Dropped block off yesterday to get hot tanked and new cam bearings. Should have it back by next Friday.
During that time, im probably going to try and get all my parts ordered and have them ready. Need to figure out the plan for coating the block. Right now im leaning towards a graphite color, or possibly just clearing it, if it looks nice when I get it back.
During that time, im probably going to try and get all my parts ordered and have them ready. Need to figure out the plan for coating the block. Right now im leaning towards a graphite color, or possibly just clearing it, if it looks nice when I get it back.
Found a used GT4294 local used for $600. http://www.agpturbo.com/garrett-journal-bearing-gt4294/
Seems like it would be a way better quality turbo than the 70mm CX racing turbo I was looking at, and get me into my hp goals>?
opinions?
Seems like it would be a way better quality turbo than the 70mm CX racing turbo I was looking at, and get me into my hp goals>?
opinions?
Last edited by static low 92; Nov 16, 2013 at 09:48 AM.
don't use ls6 valve springs, you need good double springs with boost.
you could probably reuse most of your original gaskets you have listed too since most are O-ring
what AR on that turbo your looking at?
you could probably reuse most of your original gaskets you have listed too since most are O-ring
what AR on that turbo your looking at?
Picked up my ls6 cam tuesday. Got my block back from machine shop friday, they hot tanked and put in new cam bearings. Also cleaned my piston/rods
Got some garage time this weekend. Dropped crank in. Ran a hone down cylinders Installed cam. Installed my JP billet timing set and oil pump. Shes pretty tight at .002 by my plastigage readings.
Ordered rings, arp rod bolts, and head gaskets friday. So waiting on parts to get pistons back in.
Got some garage time this weekend. Dropped crank in. Ran a hone down cylinders Installed cam. Installed my JP billet timing set and oil pump. Shes pretty tight at .002 by my plastigage readings.
Ordered rings, arp rod bolts, and head gaskets friday. So waiting on parts to get pistons back in.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Have been told the cam plate bolts are tty bolts, Didn't know that.
Anyone have any issue reusing old bolts? or maybe using a lil blue Loctite to keep them in?
Not a huge deal to change them right now. But I don't want to have an issue one the front cover is on etc.
Anyone have any issue reusing old bolts? or maybe using a lil blue Loctite to keep them in?
Not a huge deal to change them right now. But I don't want to have an issue one the front cover is on etc.
If it were me, I would go get brand new bolts and use the blue Loctite on it to prevent backing out. Better safe than sorry, in my book. Plus it is peace of mind later on down the road.
Well after figuring out i'm a moron and had the correct rings I started assembly last night. Logically on 3pc. oil ring I figured you would do bottom end rail, expander, top rail ring. NOPE, have to install expander ring then the top and bottom around it. Oh well, now I know.
File fit rings to .025, online consensus was .030 but the the ring sheet formula said like .015... so I split the difference.
I also found these sleeves in the rod caps... Had to knock them all out to run the arp bolts. I did try to keep one in, just didn't feel right. Seems like torque numbers would be skewed with those left in.
Got all the piston/rod assemblies installed, with exception of #3 I caught the edge of one of the of the oil rings going in. So gotta order 1 ring to finish it up.
Still need to swap valve springs out. Waiting on head studs to come in. When they come in I can drop heads on.
File fit rings to .025, online consensus was .030 but the the ring sheet formula said like .015... so I split the difference.
I also found these sleeves in the rod caps... Had to knock them all out to run the arp bolts. I did try to keep one in, just didn't feel right. Seems like torque numbers would be skewed with those left in.
Got all the piston/rod assemblies installed, with exception of #3 I caught the edge of one of the of the oil rings going in. So gotta order 1 ring to finish it up.
Still need to swap valve springs out. Waiting on head studs to come in. When they come in I can drop heads on.
Lets talk fuel system specs.
The end goal I think will be 600whp. I want to do this 1 time.
From reading I have an idea of what I "think" I need, but experienced turbo people please fill me in on if it will work or what will work better.
Planning 60lb/hr injectors
I want to keep my stock tank/sender. Plan on modding it to run 2 in tank pumps
(not sure what brand gph)? Looked at racetronix billet 2-1 adapter, but pumps seem a bit pricey- Recommendations
-8 line front to back (currently has -6)
Regulator- Not sure what I need here if anything specific?
do I need to boost reference?
Have to run the Edelbrock proflo rails to fit intake.
Haven't bought anything yet. Just want to have a firm grasp on part numbers/prices before I start purchasing. Thanks for the input.
The end goal I think will be 600whp. I want to do this 1 time.
From reading I have an idea of what I "think" I need, but experienced turbo people please fill me in on if it will work or what will work better.
Planning 60lb/hr injectors
I want to keep my stock tank/sender. Plan on modding it to run 2 in tank pumps
(not sure what brand gph)? Looked at racetronix billet 2-1 adapter, but pumps seem a bit pricey- Recommendations
-8 line front to back (currently has -6)
Regulator- Not sure what I need here if anything specific?
do I need to boost reference?
Have to run the Edelbrock proflo rails to fit intake.
Haven't bought anything yet. Just want to have a firm grasp on part numbers/prices before I start purchasing. Thanks for the input.
since I know your cheap, my recommendation would be
1 Bosch 044 external pump added inline after your existing in-tank pump
Mallory 4305M regulator (yes it needs to be boost referenced)
-8 feed -6 return
siemen deka 60lb injectors or 80s if you think you will be turning it up more than 600hp down the road.
1 Bosch 044 external pump added inline after your existing in-tank pump
Mallory 4305M regulator (yes it needs to be boost referenced)
-8 feed -6 return
siemen deka 60lb injectors or 80s if you think you will be turning it up more than 600hp down the road.
Hasn't been much going on lately. Finally pushed truck in garage last week.
Finally came up with an H3 oil pan, drilled and tapped 2 -10 fittings for future turbo drain. Motor is going in N/A for time being till i collect the rest of required parts for turbo.
Finally came up with an H3 oil pan, drilled and tapped 2 -10 fittings for future turbo drain. Motor is going in N/A for time being till i collect the rest of required parts for turbo.
