Project RIP IT- C-10
Project RIP IT- C-10 Try to make this long story as short as possible.
Bought an 84' C-10 as a roller this spring. To install a stock 2bolt main unknown mileage short block that I put procomp heads, comp cam/valvetrain, and a 142 blower on. Got it in and running, and smoked a hole in the piston and broke 7 piston skirts on my first trip to the track.
SOOO its been sitting engineless since July. I was planning a forged short block and put my top end back on. After recently getting back on the hunt for parts/ abandoned project short blocks and realizing im easily into $2500 short block Im considering a turbo ls swap now.
My goal is 500hp reliably be able to drive it on the daily if I wanted to. It ran a 13.9 on the one decent pass I had at track on a street tire leaving soft. So im shooting for some 12 second time slips this year with a DR.
Right now im looking for opinions on a build part list, to get me where I want. I have a solid idea since I've been reading build threads on here for last 8 months.
Carnage of last setup
Bought an 84' C-10 as a roller this spring. To install a stock 2bolt main unknown mileage short block that I put procomp heads, comp cam/valvetrain, and a 142 blower on. Got it in and running, and smoked a hole in the piston and broke 7 piston skirts on my first trip to the track.
SOOO its been sitting engineless since July. I was planning a forged short block and put my top end back on. After recently getting back on the hunt for parts/ abandoned project short blocks and realizing im easily into $2500 short block Im considering a turbo ls swap now.
My goal is 500hp reliably be able to drive it on the daily if I wanted to. It ran a 13.9 on the one decent pass I had at track on a street tire leaving soft. So im shooting for some 12 second time slips this year with a DR.
Right now im looking for opinions on a build part list, to get me where I want. I have a solid idea since I've been reading build threads on here for last 8 months.
Carnage of last setup
Honestly. The more i think about it, im easily gonna be in 2500 i guesstimate to get the short block done and back together. I could sell my blower and new pro comp heads/valvetrain and recoup at least 2k. Which would give me a $4500 budget for a LS engine. I need to make 500hp+
Prefer an LQ9/LQ4. figure $1000
ARP rod/main bolts
Gap rings fat-
New main/rod bearings
LS9 or 6 head gaskets (can't remember)
LS6 cam
76mm turbo- $300-500ish
intercooler
blowoff valve
piping
trans adapter for TH350/th400
or buy a 4l80e and change x-member/driveshaft= $$$
hp tuners or pay to have tune done
other crap i can't think off that i will need....
Sounds very very tempting to go that route because i think it will net me way better gas mileage/daily driveablity.
Downfall: I don't know d*ck about turbo setups/ or tuning (read a lot on LS1tech last 8 months)
I have to change fuel systems/motor mounts/ac setup.
I feel way more confident in building back up a SBC and getting it to run its *** off with relative ease, and next to no additional modifications to truck.
Lets give me some opinions and why based on where i am now with setup
Prefer an LQ9/LQ4. figure $1000
ARP rod/main bolts
Gap rings fat-
New main/rod bearings
LS9 or 6 head gaskets (can't remember)
LS6 cam
76mm turbo- $300-500ish
intercooler
blowoff valve
piping
trans adapter for TH350/th400
or buy a 4l80e and change x-member/driveshaft= $$$
hp tuners or pay to have tune done
other crap i can't think off that i will need....
Sounds very very tempting to go that route because i think it will net me way better gas mileage/daily driveablity.
Downfall: I don't know d*ck about turbo setups/ or tuning (read a lot on LS1tech last 8 months)
I have to change fuel systems/motor mounts/ac setup.
I feel way more confident in building back up a SBC and getting it to run its *** off with relative ease, and next to no additional modifications to truck.
Lets give me some opinions and why based on where i am now with setup
Lol I've got less than 2500 in my whole build. That includes the HPTuners, Vig 3600 stall and all Autometer gauges. If you are going turbo I would save the money you would pay on a 6.0 and get a dirt cheap 4.8. LS9 head gaskets, LS6 cam, and rod bolts and you are safe to ~1000 hp with a good tune and fuel. You won't regret it. I sold the 350/350 setup out of my truck for more than I paid for a complete 4.8 and trans setup. My truck easily have low 13s and maybe a 12 with everything lined up and perfect.
Plus no more pumping the pedal when it's cold, planning each drive according the gas station proximity, and blowing the doors off moderately fast cars in an old beater truck. I'll be building my 76mm setup soon with A2W. Plan to keep the entire turbo kit less than 1500 and make ~700 hp on pump.
Plus no more pumping the pedal when it's cold, planning each drive according the gas station proximity, and blowing the doors off moderately fast cars in an old beater truck. I'll be building my 76mm setup soon with A2W. Plan to keep the entire turbo kit less than 1500 and make ~700 hp on pump.
Im hoping to be around 12-13 psi with a 76mm, and in the ballpark of 600 if I jump into this...
Im just scared lol
Like with anything new, you just have to do it.
Plus no more pumping the pedal when it's cold, planning each drive according the gas station proximity, and blowing the doors off moderately fast cars in an old beater truck. I'll be building my 76mm setup soon with A2W. Plan to keep the entire turbo kit less than 1500 and make ~700 hp on pump.
I have no problems with efi or carb, but statements like that are just plain stupid......anywayLike the looks of your truck, I have a 79c10. Ill keep an eye on your build
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Yeah, it takes so much energy to push down a pedal once, lol. You probably wasted as much energy typing that BS as you did pushing the pedal I have no problems with efi or carb, but statements like that are just plain stupid......anyway
Like the looks of your truck, I have a 79c10. Ill keep an eye on your build
I have no problems with efi or carb, but statements like that are just plain stupid......anywayLike the looks of your truck, I have a 79c10. Ill keep an eye on your build
No plug tuning and dropping in jets is stupid. No wait adjusting hot lash and distributors are stupid. No wait I know what it is, flooding out on an inline or having a terribly inefficient iron pig small block that costs twice as much as my junkyard setup. Carbs are gay. Died with the tape player and mullets. Only good for WFO applications. Enjoy your pumping man. Anyone who thinks keeping that carbed pant load over a cheaper, more effecient, faster, better looking,, easier to drive, less work to maintain, and overall more superior is stupid.
By to the OP. that is a clean fleet side. I really wish I would have gotten one. Mine has the wood bed which is hard to build/maintain. I'm curious to see how it will turn out.
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Verdad Gallardo No plug tuning and dropping in jets is stupid. No wait adjusting hot lash and distributors are stupid. No wait I know what it is, flooding out on an inline or having a terribly inefficient iron pig small block that costs twice as much as my junkyard setup. Carbs are gay. Died with the tape player and mullets. Only good for WFO applications. Enjoy your pumping man. Anyone who thinks keeping that carbed pant load over a cheaper, more effecient, faster, better looking,, easier to drive, less work to maintain, and overall more superior is stupid.
By to the OP. that is a clean fleet side. I really wish I would have gotten one. Mine has the wood bed which is hard to build/maintain. I'm curious to see how it will turn out.
By to the OP. that is a clean fleet side. I really wish I would have gotten one. Mine has the wood bed which is hard to build/maintain. I'm curious to see how it will turn out.
Yeah, it takes so much energy to push down a pedal once, lol. You probably wasted as much energy typing that BS as you did pushing the pedal I have no problems with efi or carb, but statements like that are just plain stupid......anyway
Like the looks of your truck, I have a 79c10. Ill keep an eye on your build
I have no problems with efi or carb, but statements like that are just plain stupid......anywayLike the looks of your truck, I have a 79c10. Ill keep an eye on your build
Thanks, the truck is SUPER straight and had all the hard work done and the drop I wanted already. Once its back on the road I will start saving up to do shiny paint and billet wheels. But for now it will stay the badass no thrills hot rod look.
That's understandable, getting a stumble out is a job, but is easy to me. A wideband is a must with anything anymore. Its just preference I guess. I spend more time chasing things on the EFI motor I have than the carbed. Maybe its just luck. I'm not saying it doesn't run good or efficient, its just more hassle for me. I have 3 kids, so my time is critical to me.
Well, I had an offer today to trade an 06-07 L33 with ECU/wiring/4l60e also has mounts, and conversion plate to bolt a Th350 or Th400 to. For my blower and carb.
Pretty sure im going to take the trade. Sell the 4l60e and hunt for a 4l80. If I can't find an 80, I may just run whats in the truck for time being (Th350)
Wasn't for sure that the L33 was good for boost, but for my searches on here and my goals it seems to be ideal.
Pretty sure im going to take the trade. Sell the 4l60e and hunt for a 4l80. If I can't find an 80, I may just run whats in the truck for time being (Th350)
Wasn't for sure that the L33 was good for boost, but for my searches on here and my goals it seems to be ideal.
take that trade, KEEP the 4l60 til it quits, THEN get the 4l80. The 60 will hold for a while unless it is crap to begin with. Put new filters/fluids in everything and flush it all out once before actually trying to beat on it any. Keep the boost low once it is together so you can get any tuning bugs worked out. like 5-7 psi. Hunt yourself up a 4L80 in the meantime once you get it going.
And above all else, BE CAREFUL!! If ANYTHING, and I literally mean ANYTHING hiccups, burps, or just doesn't feel RIGHT with the setup, GET OUT OF IT!! stay out of boost until you can get back home and check stuff out.
My little S-10 is just a plain old bone stock 5.3 and I have bashed on it a bit, but bet your *** if it hiccups or doesn't run right, I am crawling back home to get it figured out..
ALWAYS err on the side of caution til you know it is right by BOTH the seat of your pants, and the numbers you have on the screen.
And above all else, BE CAREFUL!! If ANYTHING, and I literally mean ANYTHING hiccups, burps, or just doesn't feel RIGHT with the setup, GET OUT OF IT!! stay out of boost until you can get back home and check stuff out.
My little S-10 is just a plain old bone stock 5.3 and I have bashed on it a bit, but bet your *** if it hiccups or doesn't run right, I am crawling back home to get it figured out..
ALWAYS err on the side of caution til you know it is right by BOTH the seat of your pants, and the numbers you have on the screen.
Well the trade wasn't as good as i hoped. But i made it work.
4l60e was some old pos from early 90s. and i didn't feel that was worth near what my blower/carb was worth. So he kept the trans and i kept my $600 dollar carb. So i have $1000 in the L33 with wiring/ecu and motor mount plates.
4l60e was some old pos from early 90s. and i didn't feel that was worth near what my blower/carb was worth. So he kept the trans and i kept my $600 dollar carb. So i have $1000 in the L33 with wiring/ecu and motor mount plates.
Yeah 1000 is twice as much as I'd pay for an L33 but its good you are heading in the right direction. Honestly if I can't hear it run I wouldn't risk anymore than 400 on a 4.8/5.3.
