Damn that's pretty

 

Lookin good! Your holly pan sits at the same depth as my modded f car pan....they have 2in advantage over the muscle car (h3 pan)

 

Looks very clean. What do you have left before it's ready to hit the road?

 

Waiting on trans to be built still all trans stuff is ordered except torque converter. I think I have bought all the stuff I need still then programming and send to fine tuned at dyno.

 

C6matt I actually have muscle car pan holley pan was super spendy compared to $145 for pan bolts dipstick and windage tray from gm. Do you have any pics of your install?

 

All the pics you can handle.. check the link in my sig...

 

For you guys looking for comparative specs, the sump of the new Holley pan coming out is 3/16" higher than the existing Holley pan and holds a few more onces of oil as well. It was designed specifically for the 1st-gen swap in conjunction with the new Hooker engine mounts and transmission crossmembers to provide improved final U-joint working angles than what some of these swaps are ending up with.

You can use the new Holley pan anywhere you can use a notched 4th-gen F-body pan as the sump length is roughly the same. Because of modifications to its width that were made, you don't have to suffer with the reduced oil capacity penalty that comes with running a notched 4th-gen pan.

Anyone who tackles this swap using the new Hooker/Holley components is going to be able to do so with far less head scratching than ever before and end up with a more highly engineered end-product than previously available.

With the engine bracket kit, two available transmission crossmembers and two trans adapter kits,you will be able to install the new Hooker headers on an LS engine backed with a 4L60-4L75, TH400, 2004R, TH350, 700R4, Powerglide, T56 or T56 Magnum transmission...choose your gear weapon of choice.

 

anyone else notice your reading a normal thread and next thing you know your in a commercial break? I think you said all you needed to in the first sentence Toy-okie...

 

I hear ya C6matt. When I notice users speaking about products I have been closely involved with the development of, I want to be sure the technical and/or compatibility information is complete and correct so as to be useful for to making a build/use decision off of.

For guys in the planning stages of their swaps, or guys struggling to install certain components or engine/trans combinations, this type of information can have a lot of value and end up saving them considerable money in the long run.

For guys such as yourself who may have your own way of doing things, I understand this information may have less value or seem like a gratuitous sales plug. If so, that's not my intention...I'm a design engineer here at Holley, not a salesperson.

I'm actually not an "okie" either as I'm a west coast transplant. I can however see the humor in the tag.

Happy Thanksgiving

 

No problem.. I just felt like as I read the thread I was watching power block TV.... that is how to tension a Gilmer supercharger belt, now lets talk for 5 minutes about these great new shop towels...


Not upset with ya, just found it funny...

 

I promise to sound as far removed from the "Sham-Wow" guy as possible in all future posts.

 

c6matt nice build I really liking the super charger but if I had one I would probably die. I was on a test drive last year with a new ctsv sc and almost ate the curb with it when it hit boost. Was scary and fun at the same time.

 

Question about ls3 pcv catch can? Could you use a vac canister for a catch can? I have a vac canister on core suport and was thinking I could put petcock on bottom and use like they do on ls3 catch can? Any thoughts?

 

you could, but far from ideal, a good catch can has some baffles to force the oil/water out of suspension... Provent is the best out there IMO

 

I get V's from work, my car makes them feel tame / slow..

 

What is the best muffler to keep this car sounding good but not to loud? I always run flowmasters and love yhat sound but trying to keep this thing sleeper ish.

 

Ok no answers on that one. 4 link or just lowering rear springs? Front is coilovers and tubular control arms like it but back sits to high now.

 

^^^I'm at this same point. Do you four link, or use drop leafs? I'm leaning towards the 4 link. By the time you pay $600 for the drop leafs, get good shocks $200, and use some kind of traction control $400. You can get a bolt in 4 link from Heidts for $1250 with free shipping with coil overs. I was all for the drop leafs until I started doing the math. Hope this helps.

 

What size cam are you going with? I'm doing a swap right now in my 69, going with a 2004 lq9 block ls3 heads. I did buy the whole Holley/Hooker ls swap…can't tell you how it goes together yet. After pulling everything out i need to clean things up 1st and could take some time. Yours looks way more prettier

 

227/235 614/621 113 for my cam