1993 S-10 Project Update
I still have my stock truck intake and rails/injectors, along with another intake I got from a member in the pay it forward section.
I plan to clean them both up as best as I can at the local car wash using some purple power and the hot pressure washer.
I am allowed under the rules of pay it forward to sell my intake and parts, but not the one that I got from the member thru pay it forward. All I can get from that intake is the shipping cost to send it to the next person.
I want to get them both cleaned up real well and offer them up, but I will ask for money on the injectors/stock rail. Not much though. Bad part is shipping them all is not gonna be cheap because of their size!!
I still have my stock truck intake and rails/injectors, along with another intake I got from a member in the pay it forward section.
I plan to clean them both up as best as I can at the local car wash using some purple power and the hot pressure washer.
I am allowed under the rules of pay it forward to sell my intake and parts, but not the one that I got from the member thru pay it forward. All I can get from that intake is the shipping cost to send it to the next person.
I want to get them both cleaned up real well and offer them up, but I will ask for money on the injectors/stock rail. Not much though. Bad part is shipping them all is not gonna be cheap because of their size!!
Ok thanks, i was interested in the ecu and harness
May also be able to get a couple more things unhooked and out of the way to get the transmission closer to coming out. Just don't know. Shoulder has been killing me for the last couple days since I slept on it wrong. Maybe I can, wont know til I try!!
If I can get the transmission out without cutting the welded in cross member, I will be happy. Still have to unhook shifter linkage and trans lines, then converter bolts after I remove the starter, which will have to have the engine jacked up a bit to do.
Then the last part is the bell housing bolts after the dipstick tube comes out.
And it is supposed to get up to 46 today around 1 PM..
Still have to remove one more trans line, shifter linkage, and 3 trans bolts and hopefully it will pretty much fall out of the truck. If it wont come out voluntarily, I am going to have to cut out the welded in cross bar.
Time to break out the sawzall.
Otherwise looks good!
Doug
Thanks for the advice though. I have heard that from several folks on the different boards I have been on.
Its ok though, Now I can get a brace built that will bolt to the bottom of the frame.
I decided to wait on installing the 6LS box for now. I may try to sell off this transmission and get a turbo 350 instead of this turbo 400. Less horsepower to run it and less weight in the truck. Still tossing the idea around. I know I don't have the money to get a 4L80e and controller so that wont be happening. If I had my wish, I would get the 6L80e and get the paddle shifter kit that goes behind the steering wheel. That would be cool!! Especially if they offered those with a transbrake.
Last edited by BigEd_72455; Mar 5, 2014 at 09:48 PM.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Mom's truck has started acting up in a bad way. Being a 97 ford with 284,000 miles on the 4.2L V6, its about due to start showing its ***. Bad part is a rebuilt engine long block is 1450. I think it is worth it to have a year warranty for the engine. Although Mom is now wanting to piecemeal here and there to figure out what is going on. I have a good idea what is going on and don't want her wasting her money buying stuff that wont fix the problem. And I don't want to hear any of this horseshit ford bashing. If I had my way I would put an LM7/4L60e (or a 4.8/4L60e) combo right in it with a 4 wire and call it a day. But she wont want the truck swapped out like that and will gripe about the fuel mileage or some such thing or another. Not to mention the down time, and also having to possibly have the driveshaft remade. All of which costs money neither of us have at this time.
Last on that side will be the fuel cell, and I am still up in the air whether or not to get the 15 or 20 gallon. 20 would be nicer for long hauling stuff, but my primary concern is getting to and from the track. Which could be done with a 10. I dunno, I still haven't made up my mind about it all yet. But I better get it done soon!!
I was told by another racer at my track that if I switched to a manual valve body, that would all but eliminate the bad shifting in my t400. That and get a good 3500 stall nitrous converter. I called up yank for this task and unfortunately the guy to tell me the info I need is gone til Monday, but I was informed pricing for one would be in the 6-800 range. Still not sure yet if I want to do that, despite the major advantages of doing so. That plus the cost. Unless I bought one at tax time it is hard to get ahold of that kind of money in one shot for me.
I also ordered a nitrous perimeter injection plate which should be here by early next week.
Getting closer and closer...
I was told by another racer at my track that if I switched to a manual valve body, that would all but eliminate the bad shifting in my t400. That and get a good 3500 stall nitrous converter. I called up yank for this task and unfortunately the guy to tell me the info I need is gone til Monday, but I was informed pricing for one would be in the 6-800 range. Still not sure yet if I want to do that, despite the major advantages of doing so. That plus the cost. Unless I bought one at tax time it is hard to get ahold of that kind of money in one shot for me.
I also ordered a nitrous perimeter injection plate which should be here by early next week.
Getting closer and closer...
Doug
I will find one either locally or decide to just crap the cost of a new one if/when I get my taxes in. Thanks for the info though.
http://www.revmaxconverters.com/index.php/torque-converters/car-torque-converters/th350-stage-3-torque-converter-2004.html
They use a GM core. I don't believe GM makes these converters.
I listed one for the th350 as an example. Call them up and see.
Doug
Hopefully by next weekend I will have the fuel cell, nitrous plate, and the remainder of the stuff for the fuel system so I can get started getting it all installed.
Once I have it all installed and done, I have to put the battery in the bed and run the cable up to the front for the starter, then connect up the power wires for ignition and such so that it will be able to fire up. Once I am done with that, I can get the copper collector gaskets installed to the drivers side header since it is not in the way during installation of the transmission. I plan to go get the transmission for the truck in 2 weeks, providing I get some good miles in between now and Saturday.
THEN, I can start up the truck and show TX Silverado what his carb does on MY trucks tiny 5.3!! LOL
Last edited by BigEd_72455; Jan 19, 2014 at 09:53 PM.
Unfortunately, it costs $450 for the swap plus my rear end to donate the axle tubes and axles. Its the exact same length as the stock one when done, I am assuming fully welded for maximum durability, and I wont have to turn around and buy different wheels. I don't know though. I think the 9 inch rear is actually my best way to go still. Highest power rating and best durability for the money.
Those pictures don't do anything for the proportions!!
Well I get to spend the day tomorrow taking the upper intake off Mom's Ford to swap out the injectors. I will also be changing the spark plugs as well. Hopefully that will get it back up and running on all 6 cylinders.
If I am able to do that, I will work on getting the fuel system installed on my S-10, along with the original gas tank removed.
I did figure something out, the -4AN line and fittings are a BITCH compared to the -6AN to get together.
And whoever it was that told me about the tin snips for de-burring the braiding a bit, THANKS!! That helped a TON. I got the one end that came in installed, and the other end is in my post office waiting to come to me Monday. I get that in and I might be able to get some gas in the tank and check for leaks....


