No. I got just barely enough for it to spin easily. I was checking it repeatedly as I went along. there MIGHT, and its a BIG MIGHT be 2-3 thousandths ( 0.002 or 0.003 ).

I know it spun quite easily with the turbo 400 converter when I first installed it. but it did not wobble or rattle.

 

Something else I had forgotten about... 2 of the 3 nuts holding the drivers side collector to the header are completely gone. the last one has about 3 rounds of threads before it disappears also. So I guess him installing lock washers didn't do much good the last time around either. And so on that note, I will be taking the truck, once the transmission is in, to a muffler shop to get new pipe work done and removing the collectors, along with going to 3 inch pipe all the way out. And hopefully the same shop will be able to make the transmission mount for me as well.

The shop I am thinking of has a REALLY good welder there. He has done several exhaust systems for me in the past and no complaints about his work. Despite him being a tad difficult to get to do other jobs sometimes.

 

Pictures I said I would add earlier...

This one is where the crowbar and my head had a meeting of the minds, and mine lost that argument.


This is what I felt like when I finally got sat up, head rush!!!



















This one is Mom trying to figure out where a water drip is coming from... It was the small hose for the head vent tube. It started leaking because I raised the front of the truck up.

 

Well ****!!!!!

I got the fuel system completed, but now I have 3 problems. One of the fittings is leaking on the regulator, and it is where the AN line goes into the AN fitting. Second problem is the carb is leaking gas from the rear passenger side into the intake manifold. Third problem is there is an intake gasket leaking cause that gas is running out of the intake at the head, under the intake runners, and down the back of the block onto the ground.

 

I will be able to get new intake gaskets Monday. I also got the nitrous system wiring done for both solenoids, and the purge solenoid. Only problem I have right now is the purge is a switch, not a button. I may switch it over to a button just because. I wired it all so that the nitrous kit wont come on unless the key is on, and the purge cant be turned on unless the master power for the nitrous kit is on. Some people wire the purge separate from the main nitrous system, but I prefer to make sure it is all turned on and off from a single switch... I even got the aircraft style "whack off" red cover that you can smack it hard to shut it off and it wont damage the switch itself.

I picked up a fitting to go from the leaking 90 elbow to a straight 6an this morning. But with it raining like it has been for the last couple days it is now really soggy and cool outside, discouraging any work from going on!! LOL

 

Well hell....

Got one fitting changed, and now another one is leaking. So I have to change that one out as well. It is the 4an from the regulator to the fuel solenoid. I now know to get any angles I need to implement as part of the solid metal instead of using a swiveling hose end.

I fully expect to make a decision how I am doing my exhaust by the next time I am in so I can hopefully make an appointment to get it done. And it not cost me an arm and a leg, I hope. I figure somewhere in the $100-200 range since I am providing the mufflers as well. The hardest part will be him figuring out how to route 2 1/2" pipe from the drivers side to the passengers side and going back from there with both pipes, then to dual flowmasters and dumps.

Good news is that the transmission is in, no fighting between my head and a crowbar this time also!! YAY!!

Also got the nitrous purge solenoid plumbed in and mounted.

I will have to cut the exhaust that is currently on the truck for the cross member to clear. I will be doing that tomorrow after I get back from the hospital. I played it safe this time around and left the ratchet straps in place under the truck while working on getting it lined up and the bolts in. It tried to fall off one time because of my placing the jack in the wrong spot but it came down to the straps and stopped there with no injuries of any kind. Not even close to one this time around.

Going to order the battery wire tomorrow morning to run what I need to. I expect about 25 feet of red should cover what I need to. Front nitrous bottle mounting holes are drilled. Ground cable is mounted up but I need to get some grommets for where it passes through the bed so it doesn't short out by rubbing a hole in the coating.






Slowly but surely its getting together. I figure one more decent weather weekend and I will be ready to make some motor passes. Last thing to worry about will be the carb dumping fuel like it is and it leaking out the intake manifold somewhere.

 

I went out and got the drivers side exhaust cut right behind the O2 sensor, and the peg at the back for the muffler hanger is cut off also. I have to remove one bolt to get the exhaust off after the collector. But since it started to sprinkle and some mean looking rain clouds were on the way, I gave up for today. Hopefully tomorrow looks a lot better and I can get more stuff done.

Ordered the replacement parts for the leaking fuel side fitting. Already have the transmission cooling lines connected, dipstick is in, and all block bolts are tight. Still have to put in the converter bolts, install the cross member, and figure out where the transmission mount will sit when it is installed.

Barring a natural disaster, I should be able to complete wiring and everything necessary within 3-5 good weather days that I can work on it. If finances allow, I also plan to buy a set of traction bars. Should keep me out of trouble with the rear end for a little while. I might even be able to use those with the 8.8 rear when I get it finally bought and installed.

More to come later on.

 

Well, today's tally has quite a number.

Only have to drill 2 holes and trans mount is done!!

Got cross member in, starter in, exhaust off drivers side at the collector, battery wire to starter is routed, but not completed yet. Got a ground from block to frame, still have to get a ground from block to body. Driveshaft is done, but I am going to pull it back out to measure how much is inside the transmission. I have roughly 2 inches showing between the seal and the front of the yoke. Still have the 3.08 open rear in back. Gonna have to wait til I get the trailer wheels and tires repaid to Mom to get the rear end.

Got the starter solenoid trigger wire installed also and tossed over the top of the motor. Have to do some routing on that. Also got the new intake manifold gaskets since apparently one of them is leaking. So before I start it, I will have to pull the intake to replace those gaskets.

Not a ton of stuff left to do, but a bit of electrical work is still looming. That is the part that will drive me bonkers on getting all that done. But, all in time. I figure a couple days of taking my time will get the rest of the work completed where I can finally take it for a drive.

I am waiting for a personalized tag to come in before swapping the registration and insurance over to the S-10.

 

How much gas has it leaked out the intake?
The float didn't hang did it?
Jjust be careful if it was alot of gas could have filled up a cylinder. May want to pull the plugs out an spin it over to get any extra fuel out.
I see that u did get a stall converter, nice an green

 

I have a colder set of plugs for it for nitrous I already have gapped and ready to go in. So yes I was planning to turn the motor over without plugs. I talked to Zone about the gas leaking from both the carb and the intake and that was why I got new gaskets. I will also be pulling the needle and seat on the rear to check for trash. I am going to have to save up even more money to get the wideband O2 sensor and gauge to be able to tune this thing up some, both with and without nitrous.

Nothing like having the finish line in sight and then seeing it jump $1000 further away because of things like wheels and tires and a wideband O2 kit...

And yeah, the converter is from Freak Show Performance. According to them, its built for 2800 foot brake, and 4000 nitrous flash up.. I will assume that's a bit on the loose side and hope I don't ruin it with daily driver duty when I am in on the weekends.

Time will tell though...

 

As far as how much it leaked out the intake for gas, it would run down the lifter cover, down the back of the block, and dribble off where the starter mounts up at.

All this fun stuff!!

 

Today (Wednesday) will be a fun day because I find out if I am cleared to go back to work, and I also get to chop the collector flange off one of the two headers!! I may also pull the other header and cut the flange off it so when I go to get the exhaust done I can have him weld directly to the header. NO MORE LEAKS!! (I HOPE!!)

 

Didn't get the flange cut off the header while I was in last time.
I am home tonight and have to leave about noon tomorrow.
Gonna try to get the flange cut off in the morning, and also get
the other header off in the morning and cut that one off as well.

I got in the low pressure gauge for the rail at the carb, the 4AN
ends for the fuel solenoid feed line and the 45 degree end for the regulator.
Temperature gauge came in as well, with the new sending unit for the gauge since mine is leaking.

Also ordered a set of Caltrac Low profile and hopefully the seller gets off their
lazy *** and gets it on the way, or informs me it is already on the way. If not
they will be giving me a refund and quickly. I bought them Thursday night
and have not heard anything about shipping, despite the listing saying clearly 24-48 hours
for shipping time. By the time I call them, it will have been 84 hours and nothing.
No tracking information, barely a response to my messaging them to send it quickly.

 

Well today is going to be a good day after all!!!

Truck is on the trailer to go to the muffler shop. I plan to leave in about 15 minutes.

UPS showed up with the Caltrac kit for the S-10. HOLY CRAP!!

This stuff is HEAVY!!

They dang sure built this to take a beating!! Now to see if I can get everything done so I can go give it a beating sunday...

Only part I did not know about was needing a press to install an aluminum spring bushing as a replacement for the front bushing. I don't have a press and it says to NOT beat on the aluminum or it will be damaged.

So I may be making a trip to the local NAPA this afternoon, I think? It may have to wait until the morning, if it happens this weekend. I have to call to see if the guy I know will be working in the morning or not.

 

Damn did I lie about yesterday...

Got the exhaust done to the tune of $115 completed.

Got back home and was swapping out the temperature gauge sending unit and that
stupid damn adapter you have to drill out that is made of brass BROKE!!

IN THE ******* HEAD!!!!


More damn work to get done.

Now the damn needle and seat on the rear of the carb is leaking its *** off
cause I tried to pull it out to clean it WITHOUT a replacement gasket!!

Dumbass me!!

And it is still overflowing into the carb..

Didn't even bother touching the caltracs cause with how yesterday went,
I KNEW it was only gonna get worse!

So after that, I unhooked the battery and cables and just called it a night.

 

Well, it was crap weather today, and since I don't have a shop, nothing at all got done today, or yesterday.

I got in some parts for the truck that I had ordered last week. I have several more on the way for when I get in again in another 9 days after I leave out in the morning.

I have a 3 gauge dash top pod, longer trans yoke, .130 needle and seat pair with gaskets, and the tap and temp adapter fitting for the passenger head so I can drill it out a bit bigger and use a more common and MASSIVELY less expensive adapter for my temperature gauge, and the crossover u-joint needed for the new trans yoke all ordered and on the way to me. Hopefully they will all be in by Monday or Tuesday or next week so I know just how much work I have ahead of me next Friday and Saturday, providing the weather lets me get this stuff done.

I got in an automatic fan control unit for my electric fans, the 6 power relays I ordered, some electrical connectors for assembling some wiring, the transmission mount that SHOULD work on my turbo 350 to stock crossmember, and last is the wrap around cable holders that are rubber insulated for holding battery cable and nitrous lines and fuel lines..

 

Got back home today after a long day of driving and turning in my truck.

Came in and my personalized tag is now in. Unfortunately it is on the F150 for now.
Also arrived today was the longer trans yoke for the turbo 350, and the fitting for the
cylinder head so I can drill out the broken piece and install this one along with the temp sensor.

I plan to try to get the S-10 up and running tomorrow, or at least the electrical and fuel system
modifications completed. That way when the new needle and seats arrive it is just a quick swap
of those and setting the carb to hopefully get everything ready to start. Also on the list is the
transmission mount, driveshaft yoke swap, electric fan control installation, and getting the blocks
removed from the suspension while installing the caltracs.

That too will require a trip to the local Napa since I don't have a press,
and about half a day on just the caltracs themselves.

More to come later on as I manage to get some of this stuff completed.

 

Today was a pretty good day. Got the electrical stuff 99% done in my truck.

I have a single fuel leak from the gaskets for the rear bowl needle and seat.

Once I get the new gaskets, I should be able to get them reset, fill the trans,
see if my accelerator cable has come in yet at Napa, and if so,
maybe take it for a spin up and down the road.

I still have to connect the timing retard and rev limiter harness to the 6LS box,
but that wont be too big of a deal.

 

Mine has run pretty good today, except I cant get it to idle under 1200, and am not certain what to do to activate the alternator...

I tried several different things including removing the nitrous plate and it still only around 1200..

Other than that, ran good, shifts like a bullet, but has a low rpm stumble with throttle drop. It hasn't stalled, but it runs rough and is not really coming into stride until around 3200 RPM or so. Then it really gets into the freight train effect. Dipshit me forgot about the manual valve body being an ENGINE BRAKING style... I pulled down a gear and barely slid my brand new slicks before yanking the shifter half out of the floor to put it back in the upper gear (not literally, but I shifted it pretty damn quick!!).....

 

Got everything filled up and drove it today on the street. The power steering pump leaked all the fluid (time to bypass it), the passenger front caliper apparently partly froze up cause my pads and rotor were smoking when I got home, and it is running like it is only on 7 cylinders....

Time to change plugs, either fix the leak or bypass the power steering pump, and pull the front tire off and remove the caliper to see if it is stuck or jammed, and maybe replace it if necessary. Other than that, it ran decent, despite having a SHITFACED bog on full throttle.

No clue what is causing it because I am not familiar with holley carb tuning.

I am not certain, but I think I may be having something else going on also cause I thought I was hearing what sounded like either interference or something hitting when the RPM's were at a higher level also. Not anything that hurt power, but something... I will be jacking it up and checking it out tomorrow..