mountainman

I sure hope so...
its sure been a pain in the *** dealing with computer supplier!!!! What a joke!!

I am going to beat the **** out of this truck to take out some frustration!! I think I will bolt on my roller tires and try a 4 wheel burnout!!!!!

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

Don't take it out on the truck. It is only trying to work with what you put into it.

Did you get your new computer from your vendor yet?

mountainman

I just finished installing the computer this morning and guess what....

IT WONT IDLE!!!!!!
my TPS is reading 2% with key on and engine not running? I have it up on jackstands right now running and in gear to see if it needs a learn. I just put a shim under the gas pedal to keep it running.

FRUSTRATED!

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

Man, you have put waaaayyyy too much emphasis and trust in the one person or company who has not fixed the problem.

Pull the DBW setup and put in a DBC and get over all this horseshit... Hell I would have sent you the stuff I had if you weren't so damned hard headed over staying with DBW!!!!

mountainman

Any idea where I can go to see what these values should be?
When I turn the key on- TPS goes to 17%, then during the start cycle it drops down to 2-3% with sometimes going to 1.6% and trying to idle under 300rpm, but wont kick it up to keep it idling where it should be

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

Somewhere in the HP tuners software should show it. I can see the throttle position through the TORQUE app and the Bluetooth adapter I bought that was supposed to work on my S-10 when it was fuel injected. Unfortunately it only worked on Mom's Ford

viper6549

iTrader: (4)

Not to beat an old thread to death but I had the exact same problem on a 6.0 I was working on. I have HPTuners, I removed fuel, added fuel, added timing and about everything else you could think of nothing would make it idle. If I created a vacuum leak it would idle. After beating my brains out it ended up being a bad throttle body.
I know you said you tried a known good TB, but who knows maybe two bad TB?

mountainman

Its doing really weird **** all right!
Now, when I hit 196 degrees it reads a really rich condition and STFT go -18-25!
I just talked to a guy that said it could be the wires between gas pedal and tac module. I guess between 04-05 they changed a couple pinouts in the idle circuit?
Anybody else know of this?

Kingblazer84

Alright, mountain man and myself worked on the beast for 5 hrs today with no luck, tested pedal app, tac module wiring between pedal and module, and main harness to tac for all 5v ref signals and ref low (grounds) all have tested good but the 1 wire that is yellow with a black chaser that is supposedly a ref low ground shows that it is not grounded..?

Tested also wiring between blue PCM connector ( as per psi conversions ) to tac module all have continuity and all have proper grounds. Now I took some video which you will see in the post further down of all the fuel trims during a enforced idle with a washer that we placed under the pedal. Now when the truck starts up on the enforced idle it goes from 8% idle to 13% till it warms up to 196C deg. Then it bogs down and richens the hell out of the mixtures when the electric fan kicks on. Also the engine seems to idle surge as well we have checked intake for leaks, checked injectors and swapped another set of them in as well with no change, watched fuel pressure no issue there as well.

When the fan is unplugged during the bog down it seems to help bring the idle back but still seems to be very rich via fuel trims, disconnecting the maf to go into speed density closed loop brings the fuel trims back to normal but will not allow the engine to fire back up when shut off we notice with the scan tool that the tps reads at 1.3% when it should be 7-8% min.

http://s70.photobucket.com/user/low6...68489.mp4.html

http://s70.photobucket.com/user/low6...537fb.mp4.html

http://s70.photobucket.com/user/low6...c4df3.mp4.html

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

For the love of God and all of us, send all that setup back to the guy you bought it from and demand a refund or make him fix it all! If he refunds it back then go get a db cable setup and save yourself all these ******* headaches!!!

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

Or dump that **** in a bonfire and buy the stuff to go carb!!

mountainman

I just want this **** to run!!!!!

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

Then get rid of whats ******* with that idea!!
hells bells, you could have already bought a dbc throttle body, harness, and ecu for the lost time and effort trying to figure out that ****.

Hell I even tried to sell my stuff from mine when decided to make the switch to carb!!

But OHHHHHH NO!!!

Seriously.. send all that **** back to the buy who ripped you off and get your money back.. something is majorly fucked up where it is not doing its job. If it was a latte from starbucks youd be ready uzi up the place!! Get your money back and either go carb or get a drive by cable setup.

You will thank me in the end..

Kingblazer84

Jon has contacted us and will be dealt with tomorrow

BigEd_72455

iTrader: (7)

I hope it turns out good... as in a 100% REFUND to include return shipping cost!!

busta9876

iTrader: (3)

This probably is not your problem in its self, but will not help things. Your cooling fan blowing directly on the mass airflow sensor is going to cause the PCM to read a false INCREASE in air flow, causing EXTRA fuel to be delivered, resulting in your NEGATIVE fuel trims. Get an elbow on there and extend it so the cooling fan is not blowing on it...

I noticed the fan runs with key on engine off, I assume you have the fan wired to a key instead of letting the PCM control it?

Horsepwraddict

iTrader: (12)

Sometimes you have to get out of the mentality of working on a hotrod/project swap car and approach it like you would if it was a truck that originally came with a 6.0. Numerous times i have seen similar problems in 3/4 ton trucks. The problems ranged from bad IAC valves, dirty throttle body, corrosion on crank sensors causing it to push away from the block just enough to screw with low speed signal, bad ground on cylinder head (or where ever yours was located in your swap harness). I have also seen broken wires in the throttle body pigtail.

Almost all these things have caused the same or similar problems while not throwing any codes.

I would get a good scan tool (seems like you have one?) and watch all the data live like you have been doing. If nothing shows up, start testing sensors with a scope. I have seen sensors throw strange erratic signals that dont throw codes and make you want to pull your hair out.

Another extremely frustrating thing i have run into is chasing a problem that you have caused during the diagnosis process. One time i chased and chased a drive-ability problem that i had fixed but introduced another variable to when i was testing sensors, I probed a connector and spread the terminal inside and it wasn't making good contact with the sensor. The wire tested fine every time i tested it, it was just losing contact to the sensor. Its just something to keep in mind.

Horsepwraddict

iTrader: (12)

Im just thinking out loud here because this has me intrigued, bear with me. I know you have covered most of what im probably going to say. Looking at the data you posted tells alot more than you think.

Your throttle body is probably ok, TPS on these things do strange things. I have seen them idle at 17% all the way to 3%. Its most likely working ok, which is also proven by your video of it working, its just trying to compensate for something else. When the engine is cold its not reading the MAF sensor anyway, so ignore it. Its not intake gaskets, both banks are trying to trim up the same. Its very unlikely that both gaskets are leaking that bad, it would show more erratic readings than that. Your O2's look like they are reading well, thats exactly what they should be showing with the engine off and ambient air hanging out in the pipes.

Whatever is causing the issue is affecting both banks equally, which leads me to your MAP sensor reading. Its reading close to twice of what it should be with the engine off, it should be showing 13.7 (atmospheric pressure) or close to it. That would absolutely cause your problem. It may telling the computer it has manifold pressure when it should be vacuum and really screwing with the fuel trims. Try putting a new MAP sensor in the truck and check the wiring, or maybe you have a good but wrong MAP sensor in it.

Horsepwraddict

iTrader: (12)

Just to confirm I ran outside and plugged into two trucks and took the readings off the MAP sensor. At idle both read right around 34 kpa and key on/engine off 96 kpa (13.9 PSI).

Sorry for the long roundabout approach...its how my brain works. Hopefully its the MAP and what i said is of some help. This is all based off the assumption that the MAP reading of 29 is a pressure reading, not a percentage. If that's not the case. ignore everything i said.

Good Luck!

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

could be hurting the readings big time, very dirty air signal. I agree with this post. hah