LQ Fox Build
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
*UPDATE*
Finally loaded up the short block and took it to the machine shop for cleaning/measuring/compression test. I should be hearing back from them Friday with their findings/recommendations.
Last night I went ahead and ordered new ARP Rod Bolts and a new GM F Body Pan, I'm currently trying to find a descent deal on an LS6 Intake manifold w/rails, I have been eye balling the typhoon kits on ebay, but have read mixed reviews. I'm also debating whether or not to go ahead and throw some LS7 Lifters in it, just because.
My plan for this build is to re use my G Force T5 and use a quicktime adapter bell housing to mount it to the 5.3, finding a lot of different info/recommendations on this subject...will keep reading up.
Finally loaded up the short block and took it to the machine shop for cleaning/measuring/compression test. I should be hearing back from them Friday with their findings/recommendations.
Last night I went ahead and ordered new ARP Rod Bolts and a new GM F Body Pan, I'm currently trying to find a descent deal on an LS6 Intake manifold w/rails, I have been eye balling the typhoon kits on ebay, but have read mixed reviews. I'm also debating whether or not to go ahead and throw some LS7 Lifters in it, just because.
My plan for this build is to re use my G Force T5 and use a quicktime adapter bell housing to mount it to the 5.3, finding a lot of different info/recommendations on this subject...will keep reading up.
I really hate to inform you of this now, but all of the LS series engines use all metric hardware including the transmission bolt holes.
The correct thread size should be M10 x 1.5 , if you used a 2.5 long bolt that's just shy of 65MM long. You would want to use at least an 8.8 rated metric bolt.
I would highly recommend using the correct metric bolt to hold the engine to the stand when you put it back together. Not just for your own personal safety but to protect your investment in your new found project.
I hope you don't take this the wrong way as I'm not intentionally trying to sound rude.
Good luck with your project!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
I really hate to inform you of this now, but all of the LS series engines use all metric hardware including the transmission bolt holes.
The correct thread size should be M10 x 1.5 , if you used a 2.5 long bolt that's just shy of 65MM long. You would want to use at least an 8.8 rated metric bolt.
I would highly recommend using the correct metric bolt to hold the engine to the stand when you put it back together. Not just for your own personal safety but to protect your investment in your new found project.
I hope you don't take this the wrong way as I'm not intentionally trying to sound rude.
Good luck with your project!
The correct thread size should be M10 x 1.5 , if you used a 2.5 long bolt that's just shy of 65MM long. You would want to use at least an 8.8 rated metric bolt.
I would highly recommend using the correct metric bolt to hold the engine to the stand when you put it back together. Not just for your own personal safety but to protect your investment in your new found project.
I hope you don't take this the wrong way as I'm not intentionally trying to sound rude.
Good luck with your project!
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
*UPDATE*
Still waiting to hear back from the machine shop as the block is being cleaned and checked out, I will probably call them tomorrow. In the mean time....I got some goodies in the mail today, can't wait to start piecing this thing together.
SLP Double Roller
SLP Oil Pump
ARP Rod Bolts
GM F Body Oil Pan
Still waiting to hear back from the machine shop as the block is being cleaned and checked out, I will probably call them tomorrow. In the mean time....I got some goodies in the mail today, can't wait to start piecing this thing together.
SLP Double Roller
SLP Oil Pump
ARP Rod Bolts
GM F Body Oil Pan
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Chattanooga
quicktime 6037 is a nice piece. Also just hope u get the 2nd design. 1st design was chevy fork only. 2nd design u can use chevy or ford. The fbody oil pan clears great with an aje k member. And kooks 1 7/8 headers (#5513) clear the steering shaft and bellhousing great.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
quicktime 6037 is a nice piece. Also just hope u get the 2nd design. 1st design was chevy fork only. 2nd design u can use chevy or ford. The fbody oil pan clears great with an aje k member. And kooks 1 7/8 headers (#5513) clear the steering shaft and bellhousing great.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
*UPDATE*
So it's been a busy last few weeks i'll catch everyone up on the progress, I visited the machine shop for an update on the condition of the block, everything is good to go with the block,rods,pistons everything is good to use for the build. Went ahead and ordered new standard pistons rings,cam bearings, and gaskets. We're a bit confused on what needs to be done to use the ARP "Cracked" rod bolts, he said he was going to do some research and find out what needs to be done with the install of these. I'm also going with Oversized LS1 style Intake valves 2.02", a pocket port/polish will be done with these being installed. My bill for the machine shop is going to be about 1500 for to have everything done.
I had some free time so I wound up giving the valve covers a nice clean up, used mineral spirits, sand paper, and VHT wrinkle black paint, also cleaned up the valley cover while I was at it.
I received my Truunion kit in the mail so decided to know those out, soaked the rockers in fuel over night and cleaned them. I installed the kit in about 2 hours, I noticed with 2 rockers in particular, the arms don't move freely like the others, I literally have to take a flat tip to be able to wiggle it around, not sure if I messed these up, or if this will cause a big problem when installed?
I will update with pics below
So it's been a busy last few weeks i'll catch everyone up on the progress, I visited the machine shop for an update on the condition of the block, everything is good to go with the block,rods,pistons everything is good to use for the build. Went ahead and ordered new standard pistons rings,cam bearings, and gaskets. We're a bit confused on what needs to be done to use the ARP "Cracked" rod bolts, he said he was going to do some research and find out what needs to be done with the install of these. I'm also going with Oversized LS1 style Intake valves 2.02", a pocket port/polish will be done with these being installed. My bill for the machine shop is going to be about 1500 for to have everything done.
I had some free time so I wound up giving the valve covers a nice clean up, used mineral spirits, sand paper, and VHT wrinkle black paint, also cleaned up the valley cover while I was at it.
I received my Truunion kit in the mail so decided to know those out, soaked the rockers in fuel over night and cleaned them. I installed the kit in about 2 hours, I noticed with 2 rockers in particular, the arms don't move freely like the others, I literally have to take a flat tip to be able to wiggle it around, not sure if I messed these up, or if this will cause a big problem when installed?
I will update with pics below
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
*UPDATE*
Haven't posted lately, small update..
Block is still at the machine shop having the rod bearings/main bearings installed and it should be done. I have decided to keep the 706 heads that came on it to keep it "budget friendly", I will be doing a small pocket port on them with over sized intake valves off the later 5.3 years.
Still sourcing small odds and ends, looking forward to just getting the block back so I can start installing the goodies I have sitting on the bench.
Haven't posted lately, small update..
Block is still at the machine shop having the rod bearings/main bearings installed and it should be done. I have decided to keep the 706 heads that came on it to keep it "budget friendly", I will be doing a small pocket port on them with over sized intake valves off the later 5.3 years.
Still sourcing small odds and ends, looking forward to just getting the block back so I can start installing the goodies I have sitting on the bench.
The 2 rockers that don't move freely need to be checked.
If they bind our are stiff they could fail prematurely.
You may have pressed everything together to tightly.
As to the heads I would run a 2 inch valve Vs. a 2.02. Even a 2 inch valve is slight shrouded by the stock bore being so close.
If they bind our are stiff they could fail prematurely.
You may have pressed everything together to tightly.
As to the heads I would run a 2 inch valve Vs. a 2.02. Even a 2 inch valve is slight shrouded by the stock bore being so close.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
The 2 rockers that don't move freely need to be checked.
If they bind our are stiff they could fail prematurely.
You may have pressed everything together to tightly.
As to the heads I would run a 2 inch valve Vs. a 2.02. Even a 2 inch valve is slight shrouded by the stock bore being so close.
If they bind our are stiff they could fail prematurely.
You may have pressed everything together to tightly.
As to the heads I would run a 2 inch valve Vs. a 2.02. Even a 2 inch valve is slight shrouded by the stock bore being so close.
As for the rockers, I still have the two separated from the bunch, just need to find some time to take them back apart.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Picked up the block from the shop this morning. Just waiting on my cam and springs to come in before I can start assembling. Overall i'm satisfied, bit of miscommunication between the shop and me but the block and heads came out good.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
*UPDATE*
Wound up fixing my 2 rocks that were sticking, using a method by a member above, simply grabbed a rubber mallet, whacked it a few times on the side and vwala spins freely.
Since the weather was nice I decided to paint the block, plugged up all the holes that needed to be, put the valley cover on, put on 3-4 coats of etching primer, blasted it with 4 coats of dupli color non gloss black, I think it came out descent. Still waiting on my Cam to come in, can't really do much bolting up without it.
Wound up fixing my 2 rocks that were sticking, using a method by a member above, simply grabbed a rubber mallet, whacked it a few times on the side and vwala spins freely.
Since the weather was nice I decided to paint the block, plugged up all the holes that needed to be, put the valley cover on, put on 3-4 coats of etching primer, blasted it with 4 coats of dupli color non gloss black, I think it came out descent. Still waiting on my Cam to come in, can't really do much bolting up without it.
