Engine won't sit level side to side moroso swap plates
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Engine won't sit level side to side moroso swap plates
Ok.... I'm incredibly frustrated and have been fighting this for about a week and cannot get it figured out... I've searched everywhere and haven't found an answer...
I have an ls2 and a t56 going into a 68 camaro... I'm using Moroso swap plates and an ats trans crossmember...
After elongating the holes for the frame stands slightly the motor will drop in just fine and sit level side to side(angle finder across valley cover).
But the trans is obviously slanted and will not sit flush on the transmission crossmember (passenger side sits high). I can get it to sit flat if I jack up the drivers side of the motor about 3/8" which puts the motor slanted about 3.5 degrees to the passenger side. The trans was rebuilt by TDP and I can't imagine these could be clocked wrong when putting back together
I have tried moving the motor all around and haven't gotten any closer. I am pretty sure the engine stands are for a 327 but I have no idea which motor came origionaly in my car because I bought it as a roller and vin only tells me it was a v8... But the energy suspension small block mounts fit perfectly so I am pretty sure they are correct.
Any ideas please... I am at a loss, things had been going too smooth for too long but this one is kickin my butt
Thanks!
I have an ls2 and a t56 going into a 68 camaro... I'm using Moroso swap plates and an ats trans crossmember...
After elongating the holes for the frame stands slightly the motor will drop in just fine and sit level side to side(angle finder across valley cover).
But the trans is obviously slanted and will not sit flush on the transmission crossmember (passenger side sits high). I can get it to sit flat if I jack up the drivers side of the motor about 3/8" which puts the motor slanted about 3.5 degrees to the passenger side. The trans was rebuilt by TDP and I can't imagine these could be clocked wrong when putting back together
I have tried moving the motor all around and haven't gotten any closer. I am pretty sure the engine stands are for a 327 but I have no idea which motor came origionaly in my car because I bought it as a roller and vin only tells me it was a v8... But the energy suspension small block mounts fit perfectly so I am pretty sure they are correct.
Any ideas please... I am at a loss, things had been going too smooth for too long but this one is kickin my butt
Thanks!
#4
Since I just finished fitting the same LS2/T56 into my 67 Chevelle, I know what you are talking about! The two "flat looking" areas on the top of the transmission case are not "level", they tilt to the drivers side. Put your level across the bolts on the shifter plate, thats the only place on top of the tranny thats actually level. Looks are very deceiving! Your tranny mount will then be just right! Cheers.
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Thanks all for the replies... I have really hoped this is just my eyes playing tricks on me but unfortunately I don't think thats the case... It is actually where the trans contacts the trans crossmember that it isn't level... you can look at the back of the trans and see it is tilted slightly... here are a few pics to show you what I am talking about... Again, I appreciate the help! I just want this thing buttoned up so I can finish the rear 4 bar!!! I am still hoping it is some dumb thing I am overlooking..
Adam
Adam
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I have not tried it on the oil pan.... That's a good idea though. I'll try thst tomorrow, may tell more of the story.
I have checked the subframe and crossmember and it is square and level... I really think it has to be something stupid and simple I am just missing... It may be time to have a few beers amd attack it again... Amazingly, that tactic has worked in the past..
I have checked the subframe and crossmember and it is square and level... I really think it has to be something stupid and simple I am just missing... It may be time to have a few beers amd attack it again... Amazingly, that tactic has worked in the past..
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I will add that I don't believe anything is at fault with the ats crossmember or the moroso mounts. They fit great, I only elongated the holes in case I had to move the motor a tad to fit the large kooks headers.
#11
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How about checking the trans mount to see if is level or square ? Just wondering if the trans mount is bad since it will not sit flush with the crossmember. Get a level on the trans mating surface and then mount the mount check with the level again and see if the are both plumb.
Just thinking..
BC
Just thinking..
BC
Last edited by bczee; 03-23-2014 at 02:17 PM.
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Thanks for all the ideas guys... I haven't been able to get in the shop today due to an illness in the family but I will check a few of these things tomorrow before basically taking everything out and apart till I find a problem. I do have a set of dirty dingo plates I may swap out for the moroso plates just to see, but I don't believe they are the issue...
I don't believe it is a problem with the actual trans mount because you can visually see the whole trans is tilted and the square hole on top for the shifter is not horizontal with the flat surface of the floor... But them again the eyes can play tricks on you, I'm gonna attack it again with a tape measure and angle finder and get to the bottom of it.
Thanks again
I don't believe it is a problem with the actual trans mount because you can visually see the whole trans is tilted and the square hole on top for the shifter is not horizontal with the flat surface of the floor... But them again the eyes can play tricks on you, I'm gonna attack it again with a tape measure and angle finder and get to the bottom of it.
Thanks again
#13
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Seem to me if the engine is level, the trans should be level (at the shifter and mount).. if not.. something is off elsewhere.. ??
just some more to think about and check.
BC
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That is exactly what has me so perplexed... If the engine is level, the trans should also be level... The only thing I am a little curious about is the bell housing... The trans I got didn't come with a bell so I ordered one from tick performance. But it was supposed to be a stock replacements so there shouldnt be an issue... But it's the only thing I can really think of right now that would throw it off like this... I don't think it would be possible to put the trans together, clocked incorrectly when the rebuild was done... Or is it?? TDP did do a lot of mixing and matching of parts between f body, SSR tail housing, and some viper and custom parts machined to fit an F body, and about a hundred other modifications that quickly got over my head... Anything I can check there?? I may give Jason a call this afternoon and see if he has any ideas
Thanks again for all the help
Thanks again for all the help
Last edited by beerb8ammoGRITS; 03-24-2014 at 06:23 AM.
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Ok.... Just ran out to the shop and checked angle on oil pan... Perfect...I also took another look at how all the trans pieces bolt up and just don't see a way it could be put together clocked wrong... So the engine is right where it needs to be, the trans crossmember is right where it needs to be.... But the trans is about 3/16" high to one side.... Just doesn't make sense... I'm definitely missing something...
#16
Have you tried loosening the bell housing to engine/trans bolts yet? There shouldn't be that much play but maybe it will rotate enough to sit level. Maybe since the parts are mixed and matched the dowels are smaller than the hole they fit in and are letting the transmission **** to one side.
#18
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Have you tried loosening the bell housing to engine/trans bolts yet? There shouldn't be that much play but maybe it will rotate enough to sit level. Maybe since the parts are mixed and matched the dowels are smaller than the hole they fit in and are letting the transmission **** to one side.
Are you sure you have the dowel pins installed? Two on each?
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All 4 dowel pins were installed.... But y'all may be on to something.... If memory serves the dowel pins were pretty worn and I may even remember one being slightly bent... I didn't really think much of it because the bolts went in...... But...... I seem to remember several bolts being slightly more difficult than they should have to go in.... I don't know if this could have been enough off to cause my issue but I'll take the motor out tonight and separate the engine from the trans. I called the dealership and they'll have 4 new dowels for me tomorrow or Wednesday.... At this point I think that is my best shot...
Anyone have advice on getting the old dowels out? I'm worried about them shearing off if I attack them with channel locks, vice grips, and heat...
Thanks again.... Y'all may have found my screwup!
Anyone have advice on getting the old dowels out? I'm worried about them shearing off if I attack them with channel locks, vice grips, and heat...
Thanks again.... Y'all may have found my screwup!
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Well... I pulled the motor, and with it on blocks I used an angle finder to confirm the trans is rotated a whole 5 degrees counterclockwise.... I checked at the engine valley cover, the oil pan, and the trans on the trans mount, shifter box, and the inspection plate on the top. All locations confirmed 5 degrees off...
I separated the motor and trans and could not see any visual signs of the dowels being bent... So again... I'm at a loss and really don't know where to look next... I left a message with tick performance and hopefully they can shed some light on it today... I'm going to try to mate the engine and trans again this evening just for ***** and giggles and maybe some manic will happen...
I separated the motor and trans and could not see any visual signs of the dowels being bent... So again... I'm at a loss and really don't know where to look next... I left a message with tick performance and hopefully they can shed some light on it today... I'm going to try to mate the engine and trans again this evening just for ***** and giggles and maybe some manic will happen...