LSX_Marshall

Here's a quick look at my project I started on last month and am hoping to wrap up this month. It's a 1998 Ranger XLT ext cab 2wd that had been mistreated but the body and interior are in great shape. I swapped in a 5.3L with low miles backed by a TH350 transmission I had laying around. Built the mounts to slip right over the factory mount studs, custom trans crossmember, fenderwell headers, corvette return filter, 3000 stall converter, factory 3.73 gears. Got it running a couple of weeks ago as got a driveshaft for it the past weekend out of a GMC Savannah van. 71.5" c-c and about a 6 inch diameter aluminum tube. Just needs a few finishing touches, a little wiring for the gauges and a shift cable bracket mostly (using the factory shifter for now). Enjoy!

blswan

iTrader: (2)

That's going to be one fast lil truck! Are you going to keep the body stock?

LSX_Marshall

Stock body, going for a little bit of a sleeper. Might lower it a couple inches but it'll be close because of the header clearance

lsxRanger94

Did you build your headers? and if so, What kit did you use?

LSX_Marshall

Used a Summit long tube kit and cut up all the tubes on my band saw. Here's a couple of better pics and excuse my welds, I'm using a MIG right now until I can find a TIG at a good price.

Quick Ranger

iTrader: (2)

Those headers look alot like the ones i built. I just used j-bends to make them up.
The driveshat you used, is it 71.5 overall length? On mine, i came up with 72" from the trans flange to the rearend 8.8 flange.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

Did frame clearance or something else dictate fender well exit headers?

lsxRanger94

Welds can be ground down before you coat or paint them, those look good. Frame clearance is really tight. 24.5 inches inside if I remember on mine, but I have twin ibeam suspension. I am probably going to have to mod the steering shaft( remove the 2 rag joints and install u-joints) too if I Run the manifolds inside the frame rails and proportioning valve(move from inside frame rail to under master cylinder) for the brakes is right where manifolds dump.

LSX_Marshall

The driveshaft is 71.5" center-to-center on the u-joints, so roughly 75"-ish transmission to rear flange. I did start out with the motor further back but the driveshaft ended up being a half inch too long and I couldn't pass up the driveshaft when I could easily move the motor up a half. I think the frame rails on mine were like 26" maybe iirc. I really could have made them inside the frame rails but they would have been really tight and wouldn't flow nearly as good. I didnt lose any turns to lock, its real close on one side the lasy 1/8 turn but the tires on it are larger than stock anyways. I'm going to change to cobra wheels and tires later anyways so I should gain more clearance. As for the steering shaft, I do have to remove it to take the driver side header out but its not a huge deal to take out. Brake lines are close but I'm going to heat shield them too and maybe wrap the headers.

lsxRanger94

The hooker manifolds would have fit then at 24.81" outside dimensions. Here's a turbo 5.3 ranger build w t56. Pretty cool.

http://www.therangerstation.com/foru...d.php?t=134306

LSX_Marshall

I believe the width would have worked but it wouldn't have cleared the steering shaft and also the motor sits slightly off center because of the shaft clearance issues so the manifold probably wouldn't clear on the passenger side either. A cool build though, I checked it out before starting mine

Quick Ranger

iTrader: (2)

I'm guessing that driveshaft was out of a 1500 or 2500 van right? I drive a 3500 Chevy van for work and it has a 2 piece shaft. I could have that one that you used shortened, would be cheaper than the $525 i was quoted for a custom one.

That's why i went with the fenderwell headers, less cramped between the frame rails. Easy to install/remove. I can't tell from the pics, but does your steering shaft travel thru the tubes? Mine goes between #5&7. Remove shaft, install header, re-install shaft. Easy.

LSX_Marshall

The van was definitely a 1500 or 2500 because it had a 4l60e yoke (same as th350) and was one piece. And you're exactly right on the headers, between 5 and 7. Without the shaft in it, the header basically falls out of the fenderwell over the frame when you unbolt it, super easy.

Quick Ranger

iTrader: (2)

Thanks alot on the driveshaft info. I think i'll go digging thru pull-a-part.

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

Any updates on this?
Also what oil pan are you using?

lsxRanger94

He has a 454 in it now. His last update was on therangerStation.com with same user name.