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You better build a skid plate, because if you do the normal amount of lowering, that looks like it will only be 3-4 inches off the ground.
yea i will! if all goes as planned id like to eventually make a full body skid plate to double as a debris/bump guard and to help with aerodynamic drag.
if anyones reading, can yall help me with my alternator issue im having? i have an fbody alternator and an fbody harness but want to change to a top mounted alternator because my mounts are so far forward on the engine (placing the engine as far back in the engine bay as possible) that it blocks the space needed for the fbody alternator in the fbody location. whats the next best solution?
iv read that an ls2 corvette alternator could mount up top and be very easy to wire up, that i wouldnt even need a signal wire to the alternator, just wire it to the battery and itll keep it charged?
anyone..? need some help with alternators..
will ls2 gto alternators fit in the fbody location and will it wire up easy? it sounds like they are smaller..
or should i use an alternator from a corvette on the top mount?
anyone..? need some help with alternators..
will ls2 gto alternators fit in the fbody location and will it wire up easy? it sounds like they are smaller..
The LS2 GTO alternator is larger than the F Body alternator and uses a different/larger rear bracket.
I do love the Z cars. I used to have a 240 and a 260 back in the day. I always wanted to V8 one. Good job on the build so far. I do have a suggestion though. It is normally best to have the fuel pump below the bottom of the cell outlet so the pump always has fuel to the inlet side. A lot of pumps will not pull the fuel uphill to themselves. Basically they will lose prime and not pump. Just food for thought.
yea i will! if all goes as planned id like to eventually make a full body skid plate to double as a debris/bump guard and to help with aerodynamic drag.
if anyones reading, can yall help me with my alternator issue im having? i have an fbody alternator and an fbody harness but want to change to a top mounted alternator because my mounts are so far forward on the engine (placing the engine as far back in the engine bay as possible) that it blocks the space needed for the fbody alternator in the fbody location. whats the next best solution?
iv read that an ls2 corvette alternator could mount up top and be very easy to wire up, that i wouldnt even need a signal wire to the alternator, just wire it to the battery and itll keep it charged?
thats awesome man. thank you for posting that thats gonna be perfect! im definitely gonna do that same thing.
Originally Posted by Taxman20
I do love the Z cars. I used to have a 240 and a 260 back in the day. I always wanted to V8 one. Good job on the build so far. I do have a suggestion though. It is normally best to have the fuel pump below the bottom of the cell outlet so the pump always has fuel to the inlet side. A lot of pumps will not pull the fuel uphill to themselves. Basically they will lose prime and not pump. Just food for thought.
hmm good good thinking, way to look out for me, ill have to make a new mount a little lower so everything before the pump rests below the bottom lip of the tank. might have to relocate a few things..
if anyone else has any suggestions please throw them my way! im a first time swapper so every little bit of help is welcomed
nothin right now man. the car is an hour away from where i live and work so i go back on weekends and do as much as i can in a day or two.
i have some transmission and clutch stuff gettin shipped in this weekend for the clutch system so im gonna knock that out. also gonna mount my alternator up like trackzspeed has his, and then make a new mount for the fuel pump lower around the side of the fuel cell and call it a weekend.
Remember that if you ever want to switch to any decent suspension that you will have to probably use the rear mount 240 sway bar back there, so make sure you leave room for that to be future proof.
Remember that if you ever want to switch to any decent suspension that you will have to probably use the rear mount 240 sway bar back there, so make sure you leave room for that to be future proof.
spent 10 bucks on a belt at orielys and used old scrap metal that was layin around in the garage.
for anyone who doesnt know already, if you ever needs a custom belt, orielys (and im sure other parts stores) can search for a belt by belt length. i just took the tensioner pulley with me to make sure the 6 rib belt fit the pulley while i was there and all went as planned!
also does anyone know if i need these vacuum ports for anything or can i cap them off? im not using any ac
left side of the manifold, right behind the throttle body
right side of the manifold, right behind the throttle body
I do love the Z cars. I used to have a 240 and a 260 back in the day. I always wanted to V8 one. Good job on the build so far. I do have a suggestion though. It is normally best to have the fuel pump below the bottom of the cell outlet so the pump always has fuel to the inlet side. A lot of pumps will not pull the fuel uphill to themselves. Basically they will lose prime and not pump. Just food for thought.
Looking good. On the fuel pump and lines. The pump is in a decent location now. But thr hose is now the issue. The fuel will not gravity flow past the highest level of the hose. So once the tank level gets below the top of the fuel line it has to go uphill to get to the pump. You need to run the fuel pump line from the cell straight over to the pump as flat as possible. Then the pump itself becomes the high spot. Not as bad since its as low as i think you can get it.
On the water pump. Need to be sure thr belt doesnt slip. You dont have much belt riding on the pulley. Its always good to get as close to half the pulley with the belt touching as you can. It will be fine at low rpm but might slip.at higher rpm.
Looking good. On the fuel pump and lines. The pump is in a decent location now. But thr hose is now the issue. The fuel will not gravity flow past the highest level of the hose. So once the tank level gets below the top of the fuel line it has to go uphill to get to the pump. You need to run the fuel pump line from the cell straight over to the pump as flat as possible. Then the pump itself becomes the high spot. Not as bad since its as low as i think you can get it.
On the water pump. Need to be sure thr belt doesnt slip. You dont have much belt riding on the pulley. Its always good to get as close to half the pulley with the belt touching as you can. It will be fine at low rpm but might slip.at higher rpm.
my buddy and i actually talked about that last night, we figured if it does slip, ill just buy another fbody alternator pulley and the leave the extra pulley on it and get a longer belt and that extra pulley should help hive more coverage to the water pump
You are going to have fuel pressure issues with that walbro pump.They overheat if the have to pull fuel UP from a tank.I had a 77z with a built turbo l28.I thought I had problems with tuning the aftermarket efi.The longer I would fiddle with the laptop while idling the fuel would get hotter.Then at about 12 psi boost it would fall on its face.There are not any efi pumps designed to pull fuel up.I fixed it by buying a Bosch 044 pump and mounting it on the plate that the original fuel pump was on.I slid Earl's push lock hose onto the stock tank with a 80 micron prefilter in front of the pump.That oem pump location is lower than the tank and will gravity feed.The walbro pump is really supposed to be an intank pump.I used 2 walbro pumps and a dyno day to learn this.I also work on a friends 66 Nova that has a GM 350" EFI engine in it & it has problems with the external walbro pump too.The pump is mounted with only 8" of 3/8 fuel line in front on the fuel sender on the bottem of the trunk floor.If the gas tank gets lower than 1/2 or its hot out the car has problems.I would say this is probably why alot of guys use a f-body tank.If you are going to keep that set up you will probably have to go to a low pressure pump feeding a small surge tank that gravity feeds the efi pump.If you can get your hands on a 044 pump look inside the fuel inlets-you will see a big difference.Also do not trust any of the oem z-car wiring to have a stable 12v.
You are going to have fuel pressure issues with that walbro pump.They overheat if the have to pull fuel UP from a tank.I had a 77z with a built turbo l28.I thought I had problems with tuning the aftermarket efi.The longer I would fiddle with the laptop while idling the fuel would get hotter.Then at about 12 psi boost it would fall on its face.There are not any efi pumps designed to pull fuel up.I fixed it by buying a Bosch 044 pump and mounting it on the plate that the original fuel pump was on.I slid Earl's push lock hose onto the stock tank with a 80 micron prefilter in front of the pump.That oem pump location is lower than the tank and will gravity feed.The walbro pump is really supposed to be an intank pump.I used 2 walbro pumps and a dyno day to learn this.I also work on a friends 66 Nova that has a GM 350" EFI engine in it & it has problems with the external walbro pump too.The pump is mounted with only 8" of 3/8 fuel line in front on the fuel sender on the bottem of the trunk floor.If the gas tank gets lower than 1/2 or its hot out the car has problems.I would say this is probably why alot of guys use a f-body tank.If you are going to keep that set up you will probably have to go to a low pressure pump feeding a small surge tank that gravity feeds the efi pump.If you can get your hands on a 044 pump look inside the fuel inlets-you will see a big difference.Also do not trust any of the oem z-car wiring to have a stable 12v.
I will be building my own chassis harness to work along side my factory ls1 harness.. for all my headlights, tail lights, turn signals, windshield wipers, fuel pump, starter fans, autometer gauges, switches, etc i will be using brand new relays and fuses and will be looking up the exact gauge for each wire i need. The only old wires will be the actual connectors to the headlights/taillights, and the wires coming out of the turn signal lever and windshield wiper lever. I dont think the fuel pump will have any problem with getting juice while being on its own dedicated relay with the correct gauge wire. And the fuel will only have to go uphill right before its being sucked downhill. Once primed, the pump should stay primed... Its already mounted at the bottom of the tank and the lines only go about 4 inches higher than the pump.
and for the love of christ does anyone have a set of spark plug wires they can sell me? i dont want any fancy msd red lines for 60 bucks or any overpriced crap, just some wires leftover from an engine part out or somethin, just a set of wires that work that i can buy from someone
03-23-2015, 11:42 AM
