Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Frank!

Thank you Tom!

Thanks Jimbo....As I recall it was VHT.

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I wasn't crazy about how the rubber shift boot fit, so I made something different. I had some closed cell scrap laying around that I tucked under the carpet. On top of that I put a square of mass loaded vinyl, which should work well.



I had a plain 1/4" hose for my cross over tube that looked a little out of place next to the braided fuel cross over hose. So I fancied it up...LOL



I also started bleeding the clutch, but I am having some weird issues. As I cycle the pedal there doesn't seem to be any fluid movement through the system. The fluid level in the reservoir isn't going down. It's very odd...

Andrew

Aston Tibs

iTrader: (3)

Andrew, I noticed you are using the old Ford starter relay with the 5th gen starter. When I mentioned to PSI that I was doing the same thing Jon from PSI said that I may have problems with the starter running on after turning the key back to Run. Have you had that issue? How did you jumper the start connection on the starter with the power connection.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I am not having any issues at all. I have a big cable running from the START side of the solenoid to the starter. The trigger wire off the starter also run to the START side of the solenoid. When the car is off or when the ignition switch is in the RUN position the START side of the solenoid has no power.

One issue that can cause the problem that Jon spoke of is that if you have the alternator output wire going to the starter, then you will have the starter stay on. The output from my alternator goes to the HOT side of the solenoid (essentially to the battery).

Andrew

Aston Tibs

iTrader: (3)

OK Cool. I am doing the same as you except instead of having a cable from the START side of the solenoid to the trigger wire on the starter. I have a short jumper from the main starter connection to the trigger on the starter. That is basically the same way the old "Start Em Up" kits did for the old school GM starters.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

That will work also. Just be mindful of where you put the lead from the alternator output. You want that going to a power distribution bus bar or to the battery and not to the START side of the solenoid (so not to the starter).

The nice thing about this system is that the long lead to the starter is only hot when the engine is starting.

Andrew

Aston Tibs

iTrader: (3)

Sure, my alternator lead is going to a 12V power distribution block.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

That will work!

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Yesterday I decided to get the rear VariShocks installed. I got shock kit #VAS 14244-715, which is basically a stock replacement shock for a 67-70 Mustang. The kit comes with nicely packaged hardware and poly bushings for the top and bottom mounts.



Here is the bottom mounts stud screwed into the shock body. I used a little anti-seize as this is always a good idea when mating dissimilar metals. Note the liberal use of extra sticky poly bushing grease to keep the squeaking to a minimum.



I did a trial fitting of the shock and noticed that I might have a problem. If you look in every parts catalog you will see that the rear shocks for a Cougar are listed as being the same as for a Mustang. After doing a little searching around I discovered evidence to suggest that Cougars had slightly longer rear shocks than the Mustangs.

I believe my Cougar sits at stock ride height and it does also have the Ansen traction bars which have their own shock mounts, although I believe they are in the same place as the stock ones were. In any case, with the shock installed, I took some measurements and figured out that I only have a little over 1" of rebound travel. On a car that is destined for the drag strip, this is no bueno.

The shock has a minimum ride height of 13.7" and a maximum of 15.1", while I was sitting at almost 17", which is 1" away from maximum extended length. So...what to do?

This isn't the most elegant of solutions, but I see no issues with it. Good old fashioned shock extenders:



I got these at my local Napa store and they added 2.5" to the top of the shock. With the extenders installed the shock was now at 14.5" at ride height, which is right in the sweet spot.

Passenger side shock mostly installed.



Another project that I got done was the installation of the ARP wheel studs into the rear axles. I love working on the Ford 9" rear end. What a great design where you can just pull the axles without having to get inside the diff. I took the axles to my local car repair place and had them press out the old studs and install the ARP studs. Axles installed and hosed down with brake clean.



Before putting on the brake drum I slathered the flange of the axle with anti-seize to make any future disassembly easier. The brake drum got a Rustoleum restoration.



All done for now.



I am still debating what to run for center caps, but for now I am leaning towards the no caps look. Opinions welcome.

Andrew

darksider

Great work Andrew. I think with no caps it looks tougher.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Yesterday I got into a fight with the right side suspension. I have all the TCP parts in-house, so I needed to get the old parts off asap.

Enemy #1:



Used a internal spring compressor to take the tension off the spring and removed the spring mount off the upper control arm. Then I fought the rusted cotter pins that were installed incorrectly...had to take a cut off wheel to the lower ball joint nut, more on that later.

Got the spindle off.



Then got the upper control arm off.



I had to stop there because I didn't have the right size deep socket to get the strut rod off its frame mount.

I wasn't careful with the cut off wheel and in my zeal to get the lower ball joint off, I buggered up the spindle. FML...






Anyone got a right side Ford drum spindle, ASAP?

Andrew

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

Bummer. I hate when I do stuff like that.

Tipsy

Envy

Do you own a welder? You could just weld that back up and cleanup the surface. If not, you could probably have a local machine or fabrication shop fix that for you, might save on some downtime trying to source a replacement.

On another note, I really admire this build. Your attention to detail is quite amazing, it seems like you're driving to make aspect the way you want it. What hits home for me is that I've been working with my dad on his 64' Falcon for years, so I certainly can relate with the shock tower clearance, steering box interference, etc. Awesome work, keep it up, I really look forward to the final product.

Schitzo

iTrader: (6)

open the cut a little bit so that you can get your tig tungesten in there. Stack beads to fill it up then file the top flat. Will be just as good as new.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I have a TIG and I am pretty confident with it. The thing is that I am worried about a HAZ (heat affected zone) forming around the weld and having cracking in the base material. What do you guys think go that? I honestly don't even know what the base material is. Forged steel (I like to believe)? Iron?

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Thank you for that. I definitely had a vision of what I wanted to do with this car and I have been thinking about it for about 5 years now. I knew that with all the original modifications to the car, I wanted to keep some of the flavor of a 1970s street machine. But at the same time I wanted inject a healthy dose of modern technology to make the car streetable and fun.

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Fought my last major battle against the front suspension.

Here is the number one friend of stubborn fasteners:



Here is the number two best friend of stubborn fasteners:



That tool is a beast and I can't imagine doing this without it. Best money ever spent on a tool.

With the help of fire and the Dewalt impact, I was able to get the rusty strut rod nuts off. All the old stuff gone.



With the old parts gone I couldn't resist seeing the new TCP components mocked up.

Here is the lower control arm.



Here is the new TCP upper control arm. Notice the Shelby drop built into the mount and the mounting pads for the bolt in coil over kit.



I am pretty excited about this!

Andrew

DW SD

Did you make a decision on the spindle?

Could you weld the repair and then heat to a certain point to de-stress?

Mcmaster.com sells crayon / pens which melt at certain temps. If you knew the right temp to heat, you could use that to know how much heat to apply?

I used similar when I raised some spindles on a set of struts and gussetted for strength.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I am leaning towards just leaving them alone and using them. If this car was destined for heavy autocross or road course duty, I would just get another spindle (and I may still do that in the future), but it is just a fun street car that will see an occasional trip to the drag strip.

Andrew

old66tiger

Looking good. Good research on the electrical