Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

A couple of weeks ago Holley release the v4 software for it's HP and Dominator ECUs. One of the updates in this software release is the ability to alter injector end angle based on load and RPM. Previous versions of the Holley software only allowed for a single value to be inputted for the entire load and RPM range. Here is a link that can explain this much better:

http://www.hiredgunracecars.com/injector-end-angle.html

The Holley software builds a table based on the information that is found in the cam card. After tracking that information down, I ended up with the following table.



However, as the link above explains, this table is optimized for performance, and not so much for eliminating that raw gas smell at idle, which was my goal. In order to eliminate the smell the timing of the injectors must be such that the fuel is being sprayed on a closed intake valve. This improves atomization and also eliminates raw fuel from going out the exhaust during the time when both the intake and exhaust valves are open simultaneously (overlap).

As you can see from the table, the overlap on my cam is fairly significant (11 degrees), which no doubt wasn't helping the raw gas smell. So I needed to alter the injector end angle in the area of the table where the engine is starting and where it is idling. With the help of various people that are more knowledgable than I am, in the thread below:

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh....php?t=1643338

I was able to determine that the needed angle was -187 degrees. So here is the final table that I ended up with:



The engine starts quicker, the idles is smoother, and the raw gas smell is all but eliminated. This is still a work in progress and I need a test drive, but there is salt on the roads here in WI, so it will be a minute...

Thanks Holley for making my hot rod easier to live with!

Andrew

EdyJun

Thanks for the info!

DW SD

WOW! that is really interesting info and a cool feature. I had no idea the injectors were that tune-able.

Doug

Nick_R_23

I read through this whole build, which is incredible. Love the attention to detail. I was curious what pedal you ended up using for your DBW setup?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Nick! When doing swaps I like using the 2008 Impala SS pedal. It's inexpensive and readily available.

Andrew

Nick_R_23

Thank you! I'm considering using the Holley Terminator/Dominatior on my build as well, but I'm having trouble getting any info on what other pedals may work (I would like to run a C6 pedal). Did you need to do anything to make your Impala pedal work, or was it plug and play?

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Any Gen IV pedal will work, plug-n-play.

Andrew

Nick_R_23

Awesome, I'm glad to hear that. Thanks for the info!

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

For anyone that wants to implement PWM fan control using the Holley ECU and the C6 Corvette fan controller, here is some critical information:

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/1...dule-Connector

The hardest part has been finding the connector for the C6 fan controller, but now this has been figured out and the information posted in the link above.

Andrew

blackened

iTrader: (10)

i just went through your whole thread today (took several hours ), and lol you were right there were a lot of similarities. well done man, fantastic build and attention to detail

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

In the never ending effort to improve various aspects of this build, I have decided to add some real tunes to compliment the awesome engine and transmission noises. The current stereo was state of the art in 1972, but it hardly qualifies as being even adequate today. Currently the stereo consists of an ancient 8-track player and AM/FM radio, some speakers in behind the kick panels and 6x9s in the rear deck.

The plan is to retain the 8-track head unit, strictly for looks (it also makes for a nice phone holder), and add a couple of amps, better speakers in the front, and add a small subwoofer. The front speaker amp that I have chosen is the Kenwood KAC-M1824BT. It is a Bluetooth amp that will allow me to use my phone directly, without having a head unit. I made a short video to show some of the features:



Stay tunes (no pun intended) to more info...

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Today was warm enough that I could go out to the garage and do a little tinkering without freezing my ***** off. My original plan was to retain the 8-track head unit for visual purposes, but after seeing how big it is, it just had to go. I gave a lot of thought as to where to mount the little amps and I decided that the best place for them was under the dash in the space where the old head unit used to live. The problem was that in order to mount the 8-track, the previous owner hacked up the original stock radio bezel. So I went on the WCCC website and found a really nice used bezel. It was listed as "grade B" but for my pile it was perfect.



After eyeballing the space now left where the head unit used to occupy, I decided to make a plate to mount both amps. I had some 1/4" plastic left over from a summer project (I made custom window well covers) so I hacked off a piece and made a little plate.



These were some holes already in the bottom of the dash and I used a couple of them to hold the plate in place.



I was going to start on the wiring, but I realized that I didn't have the right terminals on hand, so I called it a day.



Now, if I can only figure out how to mount my giant MB Quart 8" components in the kick panels, I would be all set! LOL

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

It's amazing how much time a seemingly simple wiring job can take!

Placing the amps under the dash offers easy access to a solid ground and power feed. I am using a 10 gauge wire for both, which should be fine. The sub amp pulls 20 max and the other amps pulls 15 max.



Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

I decided that get new speakers to mount in the kick panels that I got. The kick panels that are sold for Mustangs and Cougars don't offer a lot of depth for speakers, so someone suggested I get the Polk Audio DXi6501 component system.

I found them speakers on Amazon Prime from a third party seller for less than what Crutchfields was selling them for. Given that I am a Prime member, I decided to go for it.

This is what I received in a rather rough looking box:









These are clearly not new and look to be OEM Chrysler speakers that were stuck in a Polk Audio box. After a quick Google search of the part number I confirmed that they are Jeep Liberty speakers. This seller (Buc4385) is clearly trying to rip people off by sticking old take out speakers in Polk Audio boxes and selling them.

I called Amazon and they instantly refunded my money and I bought again from Crutchfields. Amazon doesn't mess around with stuff like this and I would not be surprised if they pursue criminal charges on top of never having him as a seller.

Andrew

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The real Polk speakers showed up on Friday and today I had some time to fiddle with them. I don't know who designed these kick panels but they are just a little too small for 6.5" speakers. What's frustrating is that there is plenty of room to make the pods a little deeper and also a little larger in diameter to properly accommodate a nice 6.5" speaker.

In order to make it all work I had to use two 1/4" spacers stacked together to give me enough depth (and these speakers are only 2" deep) and to accommodate the larger speaker diameter. I ran a thin bead of silicone between the spacers and between the spacers and the kick panels.



This gave me enough room, although it isn't spectacular looking...






I then surface mounted the tweeter because there just wasn't enough space in the flat portion of the kick panels to do a flush mount.



I also used some dampening material on the backside of the kick panel to make sure it doesn't rattle around.



With the grill installed the side view is even worse, but this was the only "bolt in" solution that I could come up without going crazy and making my own fiberglass kick panels.



Besides, once sitting in the car, you basically see this...which isn't terrible.



I only got the one side done today but I couldn't resist testing it out. These sound really nice and with my little JL Micro Sub the system thumps pretty good. Once the other side is done it will be even better!


Andrew

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Kinda looks like it obstructs the emergency brake pedal, are you still able to set the emergency brakes?

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Those have to be for 6" or 5 1/4". Fortunately thats not a high visibility area.

How does the Bluetooth link work? Can you use any player on your phone to control or is there interface software for the amp?

franktf

iTrader: (6)

What you gonna do with all that fancy stereo stuff.....


The little pedal under the speaker is the windshield washer pump, the e-brake is the pull handle at just under the dash.....

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

Very nice build! From the factory (on the ones I have seen), the pedal that I circled should be what sets the emergency brake. The handle releases it. Bob

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

The Bluetooth link works pretty well. I use an Android phone and I am able to use any application and it streams to the amp. I've used Pandora, YouTube, and the Amazon Prime Music app.

I am also going to do something else. The amp has an auxiliary input via RCA plugs. For the system in the GTO I use my iPod as the source and it goes through an external DA converter made by HRT. It's called the iStreamer. It really wakes up MP3s but it needs a "preamp" because you loose volume control on the iPod when it connects to the iStreamer. I use a JL CL-RLC which works great, but for the Cougar I bought a cheap version on Amazon.

When I hooked it up this way the sound was much better than streaming over Bluetooth, which wasn't a surprise. It'll be nice to have the option of both inputs. I am also going to install the same gain controller in between the Bluetooth amp and the sub amp so that I have control over the sub level. The plan is to make a panel that goes over the stock radio bezel and mount the amp control in the middle and have the two ***** in place, one for volume control for the iStreamer and the other for sub level control.

Andrew