1967 Cougar build (over 500 pictures and videos)
#701
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Frank,
I don't have factory stuff. What I took out was a Lear Jet 8 track player. Got some 8-track tapes hanging around? LOL
As Frank and Bob mentioned on Fords the e-brake is the hand lever. The pedal is for the windshield washer pump and I can still work that and the hi/low beam switch.
Andrew
I don't have factory stuff. What I took out was a Lear Jet 8 track player. Got some 8-track tapes hanging around? LOL
Andrew
#709
Congrats Andrew !!!!
#710
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Thanks guys!
The weather today was tolerable, so I decided to see if I can make a little radio delete panel for the stock bezel.
I started with a transparent piece of plastic and slowly snuck on to the desired shape:
Once I was happy with the fit, I transferred the shape to a thicker piece of ABS plastic that I had left over from another project.
Once I was happy with the fit, I made the opening for the Bluetooth amp controls.
I have some nice black vinyl and I am going to eventually wrap that panel with it, but for now I am just making slow progress.
Andrew
The weather today was tolerable, so I decided to see if I can make a little radio delete panel for the stock bezel.
I started with a transparent piece of plastic and slowly snuck on to the desired shape:
Once I was happy with the fit, I transferred the shape to a thicker piece of ABS plastic that I had left over from another project.
Once I was happy with the fit, I made the opening for the Bluetooth amp controls.
I have some nice black vinyl and I am going to eventually wrap that panel with it, but for now I am just making slow progress.
Andrew
#713
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
Made a little more progress yesterday. I finished up the block off panel and mounted the amp controls. I liked the textured finish of the panel but then realized that the bezel for the amp controller had a smooth finish. Not sure if I like that, but I may just leave it.
Here is what it looks like mocked up in its final home. I tried to wrap it with the vinyl that I had, but it was thicker than I remembered and it just didn't wrap well around the panel.
When sitting in the driver's seat the view is like this.
The two extra holes in the panel are for the two gain control *****. One will be for adjusting the sub woofer output and the other is for the gain control for the auxiliary input to the amp which I will use for connecting an iPod directly (not via Bluetooth).
Andrew
Here is what it looks like mocked up in its final home. I tried to wrap it with the vinyl that I had, but it was thicker than I remembered and it just didn't wrap well around the panel.
When sitting in the driver's seat the view is like this.
The two extra holes in the panel are for the two gain control *****. One will be for adjusting the sub woofer output and the other is for the gain control for the auxiliary input to the amp which I will use for connecting an iPod directly (not via Bluetooth).
Andrew
#719
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
I was installing the wheel after having them balanced and I didn't notice that two of the studs backed out of the hub. Then I proceeded to back up and bent those two studs and booggered up the caliper bracket. Luckily, no real damage done.
It's all fixed and back on the road, but I still have a slight shimmy, despite doing a new alignment. I will post more info in my next update.
Andrew
It's all fixed and back on the road, but I still have a slight shimmy, despite doing a new alignment. I will post more info in my next update.
Andrew
#720
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (7)
So I got two new studs to replace the two bent ones and got it buttoned back up. The reason that I had the front wheels off is to have them balanced again. I am fighting a slight shimmy in the front end and I thought that the front wheels were to blame. I was wrong.
The shimmy (symptoms): The car is super smooth at fast highways speeds (80mph). The shimmy occurs over 70 MPH while making lane changes. It is transmitted through the steering wheel and makes the steering wheel oscillate back and forth enough to shake my wrist as I hold the steering wheel. Going straight there is no oscillation.
After taking it out for a drive the shimmy is still there. I had an alignment appointment scheduled for today and here are the final settings:
LF
Camber -0.4 degrees
Caster 5.2 degrees
RF
Camber -0.3 degrees
Caster 5.6 degrees
Total toe = .25 degrees in
The alignment setting are right in line with the recommendation made by TCP.
After going for a drive the car feels super stable at highway speeds, but that shimmy is still there. It's very frustrating and I am about out of ideas.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Andrew
The shimmy (symptoms): The car is super smooth at fast highways speeds (80mph). The shimmy occurs over 70 MPH while making lane changes. It is transmitted through the steering wheel and makes the steering wheel oscillate back and forth enough to shake my wrist as I hold the steering wheel. Going straight there is no oscillation.
After taking it out for a drive the shimmy is still there. I had an alignment appointment scheduled for today and here are the final settings:
LF
Camber -0.4 degrees
Caster 5.2 degrees
RF
Camber -0.3 degrees
Caster 5.6 degrees
Total toe = .25 degrees in
The alignment setting are right in line with the recommendation made by TCP.
After going for a drive the car feels super stable at highway speeds, but that shimmy is still there. It's very frustrating and I am about out of ideas.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Andrew