Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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1967 Cougar build (over 500 pictures and videos)

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Old 07-03-2019, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
AND deal with the potentially explosive aftereffects.... ....
This is why I had the non-explosive meal option :-)

Andrew
Old 07-03-2019, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
This is why I had the non-explosive meal option :-)

Andrew
AH! Wise move. AND considerate of those within a 50' radius...
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Old 07-03-2019, 12:49 PM
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yeah that trick works perfectly fine! ive done it before just MAKE SURE NOT TO BREAK THE STICKS ( mine were wooden from home depot ) p.s no i didnt break mine

and once the cams back in you slide the rods out and spin the cam and there you go! simple easy!
Old 07-03-2019, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
No voodoo magic at all. On a LS, you don't get access to the lifters even if you remove the intake and the valley cover. The lifters are only accessible by removing the heads. However, the lifters sit in a plastic tray that holds them in place.

Once the cam gear and the cam retainer plate are removed, you spin the cam over my hand, which pushes the lifters up into their trays. If you're brave, you yank the cam and stab the new one in. If you're not as brave, there are two holes that are expose when the cam retainer plate is removed. Stick two 5/16" wooden dowels into those holes. This locks the lifters in place so they do not fall into the cam passage. Since I was in a situation where a lifter dropping would be tragic, I used the dowel method. Inserted the new cam, removed dowels.



The actual swapping of the cam took 2 minutes.

Andrew
Uh - more detail needed. Sorry. It's me.

I'm missing something. If you simply rotate the cam over, the valve springs are gonna keep the lifter in contact with the lobe.... Presume rockers have to come off first? And then, how can you get the lifter up higher into the "plastic tray" than the top of the cam lobe -- which you'd have to do to get a dowel under the lifter....still confused.
Old 07-03-2019, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Yount
Uh - more detail needed. Sorry. It's me.

I'm missing something. If you simply rotate the cam over, the valve springs are gonna keep the lifter in contact with the lobe.... Presume rockers have to come off first? And then, how can you get the lifter up higher into the "plastic tray" than the top of the cam lobe -- which you'd have to do to get a dowel under the lifter....still confused.
Remove rocker covers, then rockers. Rotate cam a few times, stiction of plastic trays will keep the lifters high enough to remove/replace cam. Use dowels if not too secure with the trays doing as said.
Old 07-03-2019, 01:54 PM
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I love the patina on your car.
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Old 07-03-2019, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Remove rocker covers, then rockers. Rotate cam a few times, stiction of plastic trays will keep the lifters high enough to remove/replace cam. Use dowels if not too secure with the trays doing as said.
One more time - And then, how can you get the lifter up higher into the "plastic tray" than the top of the cam lobe -- which you'd have to do to get a dowel under the lifter....still confused.
Old 07-03-2019, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Yount
One more time - And then, how can you get the lifter up higher into the "plastic tray" than the top of the cam lobe -- which you'd have to do to get a dowel under the lifter....still confused.
It doesn't get the lifter "higher" than the lobe, just high enough that the cam slides out nicely, and the new one slides in. With the lifters up, the dowels slide in to keep them at cam-changing height. I know, maybe this doesn't explain it well enough, but believe that it works, as it has innumerable times.
Old 07-03-2019, 02:16 PM
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Most people are wondering what was that “meal” Andrew was eating? That yummy picture is a Mexican shrimp cocktail, that’s the appetizer, can’t go wrong after starting with a shrimp cocktail! Thanks Andrew now I’m craving one!
Old 07-03-2019, 04:13 PM
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The only way a 5/16” dowel can slide in to support the lifter under the roller is if you can get the lifter 5/16” higher than the lobe peak. I’m trying to understand how that can happen with a simple rotation of the cam. I’ve asked in several threads - haven’t heard a credible explanation yet. I believe it happens - just trying to understand the mechanism.
Old 07-03-2019, 04:19 PM
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at this point...you need youtube...
Old 07-03-2019, 04:30 PM
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Think I finally figured it out - the dowel doesn’t go under the lifter; I think it runs beside it in a narrow part of the lifter (hourglass) thus preventing the lifter from moving past the dowel.
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Old 07-03-2019, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael Yount
The only way a 5/16” dowel can slide in to support the lifter under the roller is if you can get the lifter 5/16” higher than the lobe peak. I’m trying to understand how that can happen with a simple rotation of the cam. I’ve asked in several threads - haven’t heard a credible explanation yet. I believe it happens - just trying to understand the mechanism.
I don't know this for a fact, but I suspect that the rod doesn't actually go under the lifter. I think it goes adjacent to the lifter and simply jams it in place.

Old 07-03-2019, 04:39 PM
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I now think so too - thx guys. Nice job on cam swap - love the 2-3 mpg pickup!

Last edited by Michael Yount; 07-04-2019 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 07-04-2019, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael Yount
I now think so too - thx guys. Nice job in can swap - love the 2-3 mog pickup!
Not only did it pick up MPG, but I think it easily picked up 30hp on top and gained 30lb/ft down low.I know this because that is how the fuel map changed.

Andrew
Old 07-04-2019, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Not only did it pick up MPG, but I think it easily picked up 30hp on top and gained 30lb/ft down low.I know this because that is how the fuel map changed.

Andrew
Wow, that cam is making a name for itself, and a GOOD one! More power on less fuel is a win-win for sure! Way to go!
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Old 07-04-2019, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
I don't know this for a fact, but I suspect that the rod doesn't actually go under the lifter. I think it goes adjacent to the lifter and simply jams it in place.
Looking at an LS7 lifter, there is a body diameter reduction about in the middle, where I would bet is where the dowel catches it. And looking at the front of the engine to see where the dowel slides in backs that up.
Old 07-04-2019, 10:32 AM
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What were specs on each cam Andrew? Perhaps much more aggressive ramp rates to have picked up across the board. Usually it’s one end or the other, but not both.
Old 07-04-2019, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Michael Yount
What were specs on each cam Andrew? Perhaps much more aggressive ramp rates to have picked up across the board. Usually it’s one end or the other, but not both.
Old cam is GM ASA grind 226/236 .525"/.525" 110 lobe separation
New cam: 222/233 .600/.575" 115 lobe separation

Less duration, more lift, obviously the lobes are more aggressive, but the cam is overall milder. Old cam idles around 58kPa, new cam is around 45kPa and will idle easily at 750RPM.

Andrew
Old 07-04-2019, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Old cam is GM ASA grind 226/236 .525"/.525" 110 lobe separation
New cam: 222/233 .600/.575" 115 lobe separation

Less duration, more lift, obviously the lobes are more aggressive, but the cam is overall milder. Old cam idles around 58kPa, new cam is around 45kPa and will idle easily at 750RPM.

Andrew
That extra 5 degrees LSA did you no harm for civilizing the engine. That's the main reason it can idle now. But I'm sure you knew that... ;-)


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