A-body LS Swap, Engine Location Question
A-body LS Swap, Engine Location Question Seems like all the swap threads most put the engine in the 1" set back location... Why is this?
I just dropped a 5.3 and 4l60e into a 71 chevelle and installed it at 1" setback. The drive shaft is about 2" long and the trans cross-member will have to be moved. Not a big deal but the trans does touch the tunnel in a few spots.
I'm wondering if i pull it and put the mounts in the normal or even 1" forward position, does this affect anything else? seems like there will be plenty of clearance up front for accessories etc...
Also I see where everyone has clearance issues with using truck accessories between the power steering pulley and the steering box. If I put the engine further forward would it clear better?
Thought I would ask for advice and recommendations before making the changes from any one that has tried it. Don't want to move it then get to a point where parts don't fit as well.
the engine i pulled was a 350 with th350 tranny.
I just dropped a 5.3 and 4l60e into a 71 chevelle and installed it at 1" setback. The drive shaft is about 2" long and the trans cross-member will have to be moved. Not a big deal but the trans does touch the tunnel in a few spots.
I'm wondering if i pull it and put the mounts in the normal or even 1" forward position, does this affect anything else? seems like there will be plenty of clearance up front for accessories etc...
Also I see where everyone has clearance issues with using truck accessories between the power steering pulley and the steering box. If I put the engine further forward would it clear better?
Thought I would ask for advice and recommendations before making the changes from any one that has tried it. Don't want to move it then get to a point where parts don't fit as well.
the engine i pulled was a 350 with th350 tranny.
Here are the 1" setback mounts, chevelle frame mounts, truck accessories and the smaller pulley required to clear the jeep GC box.
Moving forward wont buy you much clearance there, but might be worth it for the trans.
Moving forward wont buy you much clearance there, but might be worth it for the trans.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
I put a 5.3L in my 1967 El Camino. I put the engine 1 inch forward, using Doug's headers and mounts, to give more room in the tunnel for the transmission. I didn't want to beat up the floor in a car with rust free metal. The trans crossmember worked without modification. I used a passenger car accessory drive, no way will truck stuff clear the '67 SS hood.
Only drawback is that the steering box would not clear PS pump, but wouldn't clear any better 1 inch back either. I used a Kwik PS-Alt setup and it worked just fine.
Looking at my 1969 SS396 Chevelle for comparison, it looks like there may be more hood clearance, so truck accessory could work out, but I would still use 1 inch forward mount to avoid beating up the floor in my original SS396.
The LS engine is a sweet deal. Easy start when cold, better mileage, 4 spd auto big plusses. Might be a little slower in the 1/4 than the 415 SBC TH400 combo but on the street it's killer. My El Camino was a original SS396 and I still have the original engine if I ever want to go total original again, not likely though. But that's why I didn't want to chop up floor.
Only drawback is that the steering box would not clear PS pump, but wouldn't clear any better 1 inch back either. I used a Kwik PS-Alt setup and it worked just fine.
Looking at my 1969 SS396 Chevelle for comparison, it looks like there may be more hood clearance, so truck accessory could work out, but I would still use 1 inch forward mount to avoid beating up the floor in my original SS396.
The LS engine is a sweet deal. Easy start when cold, better mileage, 4 spd auto big plusses. Might be a little slower in the 1/4 than the 415 SBC TH400 combo but on the street it's killer. My El Camino was a original SS396 and I still have the original engine if I ever want to go total original again, not likely though. But that's why I didn't want to chop up floor.
gmorris, what headers did you use? with the engine set back 1" how much clearance did the headers have?
garys 68, what power steering pulley is that? The only smaller one i have found is the Dirty dingo 5.5" one, was curious if that is what you are running and how well it worked.
garys 68, what power steering pulley is that? The only smaller one i have found is the Dirty dingo 5.5" one, was curious if that is what you are running and how well it worked.
back to the question of why 1" set backs.. the new Blocks (Gen III/IV/V) are about 1" shorter that a SBC, The 1" is due to the flange at the back of the block being shorten by GM to accommodate the more compact engine compartments.
If you were to use the standard plates, the flange of the block would be about 1" short of mating up to the Transmission flange of the bell housing (if the transmission was left in it's OEM location.) So by using 1" Setbacks, the engine and transmission would mate up. Of course if you are using a different transmission and/or moving the location of the transmission. It would make no different of what plate you use.
Moving engine/trans back or forward has its pro's and con's and each introduces its own set of problems depending on which way you move.
As stated above, many variables come into play, but mix and matching parts can only lead to problems. It is always recommended to use parts that are designed to fit together or are known to work together. Front end Accessories, firewall, cross members, transmission tunnels, all add to the variations.
Look at using complete kits (Holley/Hooker, BRP, etc) to avoid problems if your not sure what parts to use when mix and matching. Do your research.
Good luck
BC
If you were to use the standard plates, the flange of the block would be about 1" short of mating up to the Transmission flange of the bell housing (if the transmission was left in it's OEM location.) So by using 1" Setbacks, the engine and transmission would mate up. Of course if you are using a different transmission and/or moving the location of the transmission. It would make no different of what plate you use.
Moving engine/trans back or forward has its pro's and con's and each introduces its own set of problems depending on which way you move.
As stated above, many variables come into play, but mix and matching parts can only lead to problems. It is always recommended to use parts that are designed to fit together or are known to work together. Front end Accessories, firewall, cross members, transmission tunnels, all add to the variations.
Look at using complete kits (Holley/Hooker, BRP, etc) to avoid problems if your not sure what parts to use when mix and matching. Do your research.
Good luck
BC
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Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 54
Likes: 1
From: Calgary Alberta Canada
I used stainless works 1 7/8" headers and vette front accessories with an autokraft oilpan. Stainlessworks said they designed the headers suing the dirty dingo slider mounts so that's what I used...not really sure how far back it is from where the 540 was but it is definitely back. My headers are very close to the crossmember but don't hit. Tunnel took some clearance for the 4l60 bellhousing.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 99
Likes: 2
on my 69, the decision was a balance between the clearance needed for the pan against the front cross member and the clearance for the magnuson blower at the firewall. we ended up with less than an inch at both ends, so it worked for me.
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 157
Likes: 3
I used the Hooker header and mount set up on my 71 Chevelle. I have a 1998 F-body pan and accessories.
I have 1 inch of clearance at the firewall and had to do some massaging of the tunnel for the m6 transmission.
I did have to fabricate my own trans crossmember to clear the exhaust.
I am using Pypes 2.5 inch and an x-pipe.
I have 1 inch of clearance at the firewall and had to do some massaging of the tunnel for the m6 transmission.
I did have to fabricate my own trans crossmember to clear the exhaust.
I am using Pypes 2.5 inch and an x-pipe.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Nor CAl
LS1 in my 1967 El Camino I did a frame off restoration of my 67 El Camino, I used a 2000 LS1 motor out of a corvette. I used the Hooker Headers motor mounts which worked well. I tried using their headers, they hit the starter, Steering rod and the frame in two spots. I talked with the people from Flow Mater in Santa Rosa California. They had a set that fit perfectly, way to go Flow Master. I also used a TKO 600 5 speed, I had to modify the floor pans to make it work. I am running a 12 bolt 3:73 posi with CPP four link rear suspension. At 70 MPS my motor is spinning 2200 RPM. I also used CPP 4 wheel disk brake conversion and their 2 inch drop spindles in the front. The car steers well and stops on a dime. it is a fun car to drive.
Doug S
Doug S
Ok. Been a while again. I received the CV driveshaft and it works great. I managed to put on 4,800 miles this summer. Took it on a 500 mile trip and averaged 22.8 mpg. Zero issues but have a few upgrades I'm doing this winter. I'm adding cruise control and I ordered Classic Auto Air A/C. Adding dash speaker. I put ridetech adjustable shocks on the front. My "rebuilt" steering box was leaking so I replaced it with a OEM grand Cherokee box.
Sorry for the rambling, I just wanted to get the thread up to speed.
Sorry for the rambling, I just wanted to get the thread up to speed.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,291
Likes: 3,616
From: Central Cal.
Ok. Been a while again. I received the CV driveshaft and it works great. I managed to put on 4,800 miles this summer. Took it on a 500 mile trip and averaged 22.8 mpg. Zero issues but have a few upgrades I'm doing this winter. I'm adding cruise control and I ordered Classic Auto Air A/C. Adding dash speaker. I put ridetech adjustable shocks on the front. My "rebuilt" steering box was leaking so I replaced it with a OEM grand Cherokee box.
Sorry for the rambling, I just wanted to get the thread up to speed.
Sorry for the rambling, I just wanted to get the thread up to speed.