Thanks, you still have a few to go(I'm 48).....

 

Got a little more done this week..... Put a -10 return fitting and put the baffle assembly in the oil pan(baffle assembly had to be fitted a little, no big surprise) - Got the oil pick-up in and clearance set to the bottom of the pan..... Put the oil pan on the motor - I went done this morning and masked the shortblock up, scuffed the black down with some scotchbrite, put a light coat of primmer on it and painted it..... After it sat for about a 1/2 hour I unmasked it, changed the pan/timing cover hardware out to ARP stainless 12 pt, put the timing cover seal in and got the Moroso remote water pump adaptors on.....

Here is the pick-up in place, oil return fitting, baffle assembly in place and the oil pan on.....








Here is the block masked/scuffed and ready for paint.....






Here it is with a light coat of gray primmer, then painted.....








Here it is unmasked, bolts changed and with the Moroso adaptors on.....

 

Frank,

Are you matching the color of the car on the engine or is that the stock Ford engine color for that year?

Andrew

 

It's an old Pontiac color that happens to be really close to the color of my car..... The engine compartment is going to be black, so I decided on putting a little color on the engine.....

 

Went today for a short time..... Got the crank drilled for a balancer locating pin using the ATI drill fixture kit..... Then got the balancer installed and marked for the timing tab..... Also put the fittings in the Moroso adaptors, got the oil pressure adaptor in the block and put the cam/crank sensors in place(ARP hardware is coming for these)..... Cleaned up some stuff, this week I will get the heads apart so I can get the ports cleaned up and get the new springs on them.....

Here it is as of now.....

 

Love the build Frank. I wish my Cougar had it's original paint.

Andrew

 

Cool build, love the paint on the engine.

 

After seeing this, I kinda wish I would painted my pan/cover/block same time like that.

Looks good

 

Car looks great! Nice job cleaning it up and great job on the build so far!

 

Thank you all.....

 

Not much progress this week, I did get the heads disassembled so I can get a little porting done and then they will be reassembled with some new Isky 165A single springs.....

Here the heads are apart.....






And the new k-member got here this week, the control arms are coming.....

 

Well not much has bee done for a while, I did something to my back that had me screwed up for about a week..... I have been doing much better for the past week so I went out to the NMRA race at Bradenton yesterday for a little motivation..... Last week I did pick up a replacement intake and exhaust valve and cut the heads down to protect the valve seats when I clean up the chambers in the heads..... Today I went to the shop and started porting the heads..... First thing I did is take the intake rocker bolt bump out of the intake runners on both heads, next I roughed in the intake valve bowl area buy the valve guide on one head..... Then roughed in the rest of the bowl area on one cylinder..... I stopped after a couple hours of work, I really don't want to kill my compressor and it was starting to get pretty warm..... I think I am going to take a little more around the guide but we will see..... Unfortunately it will be a couple weeks before I get back to porting since I will be on a mini vacation next weekend for 3 days.....

I have been collecting some more pieces I will need when I get back to the car..... I got the front lower control arms, Calvert Racing Adjustable Rear Shocks and some trans pieces.....

Here is the some of the porting stuff, a pic of the head casting number and one of the cut down valves in a chamber.....








Here is the what the roughed in port work is looking like so far on the intakes.....

 

Went to the NMCA opener at Bradenton on the 21st, put the car in the show and watched some racing..... Sunday I went to the shop to work on porting the heads and had a major f-up, I managed to make a hole into the water jacket in the swirl ramp area on the second intake valve pocket(junk 1 new head)..... I have a set of used 862's, I took them apart but they are going to need a lot of machine work(valve job, guide work and surfacing)..... I looked around and found a new complete set of 862's that have never been bolted on, I bought them and got them yesterday..... The only issue with these is you have to be careful what head gasket you use on them because the have the notch in the deck surface..... I researched the head gasket issue today and everywhere I found they say you have to use composite/graphite head gaskets and mls gaskets would leak, but I did find that Victor Reinz is making a new series of mls gaskets that address this issue.....

Here is the hole I made in the swirl ramp area, lesson learned.....






Here is the new heads with the notch in the deck surface.....






Since I have a junk head I decide to see how far I could go in the exhaust port roof before hitting a water passage..... So I ported the exhaust opening to a d shape but not widening it other then clean up..... Then I ground into it until I hit the water passage, it looks like I will have plenty of material there(it was still just over .100 before I hit the water passage after porting)..... Funny thing is I wasn't even concerned about hitting water in the intake side, but was worried about it in the exhaust roof(I was going to use one of the used heads as a guinea pig, but I have the junk head to use instead).....

Here is the ported exhaust opening with the hole ground into the water jacket.....






I am going to take the new heads apart tomorrow so I can get started on them.....

Almost forgot, I got the lifter and trays in the short block yesterday after work..... I also got the 12an crankcase vents made and welded to the new Holley valve covers(I will get some pic's of these tomorrow when I am painting them).....

 

rad that you checked the distance to go on a junk head. I was real leery right there and just cleaned it up a little.

 

Ironically I did the same thing. They were basically finished in my eyes and I was going over them with a cartridge roll. I noticed a spot that looked like a tiny pin hole. I poked it and now it's 1/4 hole...

 

Actually my intention was to use a jy head, but I ruined a new head in the bowl area where I wasn't worried about having a problem..... So I used the same head to check the exhaust roof.....


That's the same thing that happened to me except I seen the pin hole while roughing in the second bowl area..... When I poked at it the hole you see appeared..... I quess I was lucky I didn't have both heads completely roughed in when I found it, that would be a lot of time lost.....

 

I like to quarter a junk head in a band saw. Then you can see where the meat is in the casting.

 

Frank,

I am just curious why you wouldn't get the head CNCd by a reputable porter. Seems like the easy way to go and save you a bunch of time and hassle.

Andrew

 

Yeah, I was thinking about doing that.....



It's just something I like to do and I have had very good results in the past..... Plus I just like to do as much as possible on my rides myself..... So far I have done everything except the cage and upholstery work on seats/door panels.....

 

I had a lot of crap to do today but I did manage to get the heads apart..... I picked up a new die grinder this week, my old one was on it's last leg..... I went ahead and tried it on one of the rocker bolt bosses in the intake port, it has a much smoother trigger and produced a much more controlled smoother finish.....

Here is the rocker bolt boss I took down.....






and I didn't have any time to get the valve covers painted, but here a pick of them.....