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Wed afternoon I managed to find time to get a coat of Meguire's #7 rubbed and and let it sit overnight..... This morning I went down and wiped it off, I must say I am very pleases with the results so far..... The Meguire's #7 is supposed to restore the oils in old single stage paint, and it seems to do exactly that..... The top of the driver side fender was very dull, I could not get it to come up by buffing it and the paint on these cars is very thin so you have to be careful with it(I have a couple edges on it that are through the paint and were barely buffed)..... Anyway I did a little research and found out about the #7 processand decided to give it a try..... After just one application the top of that front fender now has a reasonable shine on it.....
Before I leaft I rubbed in another coat and the loaded it up to sit over night.....
Got the paint as good as it's going to get over the weekend..... Most of the car looks great, but the left front fender and door are not the best..... Don't get me wrong, for 42 year old paint there not too bad it's just the rest of the car looks so much better..... I ill get some pic's of it next weekend after I put one more coat of wax on it.....
Today after work I got a little done on the motor..... I put a set of LS6 rod bolt in it and test fitted the Improved Racing Crank Scraper I got..... Everything looked good other then 4 places the rod bolts come extremely close too, I marked it up so I can put a little more clearance in it.....
Here's a couple pic's of the crank scraper and where clearance is too close.....
Curious as to where you bought the new engine from and part number if you still have it.
Most of the new GM crate motors specify that they have the early style press pin rods in them.
FWIW, the factory does use a loctite on the head bolts even though they are TTY bolts. The new Factory head bolts come with it Pre Applied. And the Gaps you measured are about right according to factory Spec's but as you Know they are not Ideal for what you want to do with it.
Curious as to where you bought the new engine from and part number if you still have it.
Most of the new GM crate motors specify that they have the early style press pin rods in them.
FWIW, the factory does use a loctite on the head bolts even though they are TTY bolts. The new Factory head bolts come with it Pre Applied. And the Gaps you measured are about right according to factory Spec's but as you Know they are not Ideal for what you want to do with it.
I bought the Chevrolet Performance LS 327ci/327HP Deluxe Engine part number 19244096.....
Thanks..... It's got 15 x 8's with 275/60 DR's on the rear, I built the rear housing 50" wide so I could go with a 3.5" backspace for a little depth in the rear..... The fronts are your basic 15 x4's with 165/80 radials and the wheels are Billet Specialties Street Lites.....
Thanks..... It's got 15 x 8's with 275/60 DR's on the rear, I built the rear housing 50" wide so I could go with a 3.5" backspace for a little depth in the rear..... The fronts are your basic 15 x4's with 165/80 radials and the wheels are Billet Specialties Street Lites.....
Thanks for the info. Are you worried about braking on the street with the small tires? I want to run a similar combo on my Cougar, but I'm afraid the skinnies will lock up under braking.
Thanks for the info. Are you worried about braking on the street with the small tires? I want to run a similar combo on my Cougar, but I'm afraid the skinnies will lock up under braking.
Andrew
I have used this same basic wheel/tire combo on many of my cars since the late 80's, have never really had a problem..... In fact I was driving the Comet down to Bradenton Motorsports Park in Nov to help a friend out, on the way down a teenage girl pulled out directly in front of me while I was going 60..... I gave the brakes all the had and it stopped with no problems and very little tire smoke.....
I have used this same basic wheel/tire combo on many of my cars since the late 80's, have never really had a problem..... In fact I was driving the Comet down to Bradenton Motorsports Park in Nov to help a friend out, on the way down a teenage girl pulled out directly in front of me while I was going 60..... I gave the brakes all the had and it stopped with no problems and very little tire smoke.....
Thanks for the clarification Frank. I've been messing around with cars for 30 years, but I've always tried stuffing the biggest tire on the front that was possible! LOL Happy New year.
After trimming a few areas on the crank scraper I finally got it to clear with the windage tray torqued on top of it..... Also got the cam and Trick-Flow timing chain damper assembly installed with a new LS2 timing chain, also degreed the cam in(Came out within a half a degree of what I was told to set it)..... Next thing I want to do is port the oil pump.....
Friday afternoon I disassembled the oil pump and started porting it, I got it all roughed out with a carbide but still need to take the paper rolls to it.....
I got the car all cleaned up and waxed but was still unhappy with the driver front fender and door..... Today I finally started making some progress on the top of the fender, it's a hell of a lot of work but it is starting to look better(spent a couple hours on the top of the driver front fender hand rubbing with the #7 Meguire's).....
For now the car is ready to go to the Ford & Mustang Round Up at Silver Springs in Ocala, FL next weekend.....
Here's a few of the oil pump porting.....
and here's a couple of the car all cleaned up.....
The car looks really nice. I wish my Cougar had original pain like that!
I also hope that I can fit 275/60-15s on it, like you got. If not, MT has 255/65-15, which will probably fit for sure.
Andrew
I used the 255's on my 85 Fox Coupe, they worked great on it..... It had a stock 90 5.0/c4 combo with a carb on 12psi, it went 6.80/103 and 10.60/130 shifting at 5600.....
I used the 255's on my 85 Fox Coupe, they worked great on it..... It had a stock 90 5.0/c4 combo with a carb on 12psi, it went 6.80/103 and 10.60/130 shifting at 5600.....
That's good to know. I keep reading that drag radials don't work well with stick shift cars, but I doubt that my little 5.3L will make more than 400hp, so surely the 255s will hook.
I thought an update was in order since I haven't done one in a while..... To tell the truth I haven't really done to much, between doing a side job and getting the flu I just haven't had a whole lot of time to work on it..... I have purchased a Victor JR carb intake, some Holley Valve Covers, a o-ringed valley cover and some arp hardware.....
Anyways, I finished porting the oil pump then installed and aligned the housing, then assembled the rest of the pump..... I also removed the rear engine cover(because there was a big step at the oil pan rail) and reinstalled it with an alignment tool(no it lines up very well).....
Last week I made a stand off and my boss welded it to the timing cover for me(it is so I can install a timing tab, I like to be able to physically check the timing with a light)..... I made it a little tall, so today I clamped to the milling machine table and mill it down to the proper height..... Then I took it over to work so I could bead blast it, I cleaned it up and installed it on the engine with an alignment tool.....
Here is the ported oil pump, then some of the installation.....
Here is the rear cover and timing covers installed with alignment tools in place.....
Nice attention to detail. The younger guys can learn from us old ******* (I am assuming age here...I am 44) about taking their time and doing things right...LOL
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