Words of wisdom..........

Ken

 

Great build. I'm with Andrew on doing a barge build someday.

Did the 1:1 MAP reference fuel pressure work out? Any other fuel concerns?

 

Carl,
I could not be happier with the way the fuel system worked out. I initially set the base pressure at 50 PSI and my tuner did not touch it. I spoke with several tuners before the build and the first thing all of them said was make sure the fuel system is worked out because that is the biggest on dyno issue they see tuning forced induction applications.

The MAP reference and second pump wired with the Hobbs switch has worked flawlessly. It also very quiet. My old Chevelle had a Rick's tank with the single AC Delco pump and you could hear it at idle because it was running at full capacity the whole time. You cannot hear the ZL1 module at all with the car running any my exhaust is pretty quiet.

I must admit I was skeptical about a returnless system because so many swear by massive hose to a referenced regulator then massive hoses back to the tank for big power. For a street car I now feel a return style system is obsolete. The only reason I see to run one would be to save money IF a Corvette filter/regulator will work for your application. If you exceed those limits then a Vaporworx PWM controller is the best way with out a doubt. The cost isn't that different either. If you add up the regulator, hoses, fittings for the return it's a no brainer to benefit from a quite and more reliable fuel system.

Feel free to use this as a testimonial and feel free to have any potential customers contact me if they have questions.

 

This is also a pretty good test to baseline the capacity. The dual ZL1 pumps should support 1000 crank horsepower comfortable under a 90% duty cycle with 1000 CC injectors on E85. Add a voltage booster and this will support big power.

 

Ultimately, if I ever go down the turbo road, I probably will not take my own advice. I keep imagining a little 5.3L engine with a couple of smallish turbos (like BW EFR 6258s) having a torque curve that looks like a dining room table....LOL

Andrew

 

Interested in the return less style fuel. Bummed because I already bent 1/2 supply and 3/8 return thinking I needed to run a boost referenced regulator on the return side. Where did you find your information. I would like to read more.

 

Go to vaporworx.com

It's as simple as running a supply hose and wiring the controller.

 

That's good to hear that it's working well and that it's transparent. The idea is to not think about fuel delivery. Thank you for the kudos.

PWM controlled returnless systems are what's used in today's OEM builds. Hellcats, ZR1, CTS-V, Z-06, etc. all use returnless. They can't all be wrong.

We've done several systems that are past the need for twin CTS-V. What we have running for these is a CTS-V for primary then dual Walbro 450lph 267's in the secondary position. The 267's are not in a reservoir so there are limitations to their effectiveness, but on one build it's over 1200rwhp twin-turbo with a rich tune (safe.) Similar to yours, the 267's kick on with a Hobb's relay so the CTS-V is the cruiser/primary and the 267's do the heavy lifting. Since the 267's don't have the pressure limitation of the CTS-V, they can ramp up on pressure over 65psi with good results (as long as there is fuel available.)

The LS3 modules can be easily modified to use a standard 58psi mechanical regulator. This means no external C5 FFPR needed. It is not recommended to use the C5 part since the return would likely not be going to the reservoir, whereas the adapted 58psi mechanical regulator does. Besides, but the time all is said and done, the VaporWorx adapter and mechanical regulator is less expensive than the C5 (hoses, adapter, etc. all add up.)

ZL1 and CTS-V really should be used with a PWM system designed to work in a returnless manner. Both will add significant heat to the fuel load if left to run at constant battery voltage.

Sorry the website is a bit antiquated. But, I like to discuss with folks about their build and how best the kits can be made to best fit the car. That's hard to do by pressing a website button.

 

I cannot seem to figure out the TCC lockup. I even swapped the brown pin "s" wire which grounds the solenoid. I can hear it clicking and it's drawing enough current to spark but still no lockup. That makes me think it's an internal issue. That will have to wait until the car is done for the year.

I made a short and horribly shot video showing the boost and fuel pressure gauge under load.

 

Instead of wasting time watching the Bears I went up to Great Lakes Dragaway to make a few runs. As you can see the DA was decent but the track was pretty green.

The last run was on the wastegate spring with the cutout wide open the whole time. In this configuration it was just under 12 PSI. The 30 PSI is what I had in the rear tires. They are Nitto 555's 285/40/18 summer radials. It is very difficult to launch. Either it does not have boost and comes out slow or blows the tires off.

This car is 2 step and drag radials away from a 10.99.

 

Very nice mph. Get the car to leave and it'll fly. That mph is good for 10.40s, if not better. Awesome car.

 

Picked up some Weld Draglite's for cheap off Craigslist. A quick polish with the DA and they are good to go. They are 15x8 with 4.5" backspace. They fit nicely. I have been thinking hard about trying for that 10.99 this year but I should have a driveshaft loop so I will most likely wait for the spring. Took the car for a quick drive to fill up. Cold streets and cold air make for a slippery but fun time.

 

Wheels look good!

 

Car does look great. You ever figure out what happened to your trans at the drag strip? Do you think it was wheels slipping in the tires?

 

Thanks guys. I had a 70 Monte with draglites in the 90's and thought they were the bomb then. I thought they might look dated but its hard for a nicely polished wheel to look bad on a black car. I might have to find fronts now.

I have no idea what happened with the trans. The last few drives there has been zero indication of slip or damage. Fluid is crystal clear and doesn't smell burnt even those gh I have no idea what burnt tractor hydraulic fluid smells like. Fingers crossed it doesn't show up when the drag radials are mounted.

 

Love the drag radials. Looks killer. Move those suckers to the front and find some 15x10's.

 

I want 15x10 in back for sure but it would require a custom offset. They will be for the strip only and were cheap. $150 for the pair.

 

Sweet deal.

 

I took the car out last night to show a buddy. His dad has a C7 Z06 but I still successfully scared the crap out of him. I beat on the car hard and went through over half a tank of E80 is less than 80 miles. I did loose the belt at the end of the night. I parked the car and went for a jog to find the belt. It was in the middle of the street about a 1/4 mile back. The tensioner has been suspect but was fine until now. I felt like I was in high school again.

 

That boat moves man. I love it!! Phenomenal Build! I would love to do a build like yours with a 1960-1970 Cadillac Coupe Deville, only thing different would be I would want a T-56 set-up. I like the way it looks with the Welds. Your car would look sick with a set of Weld RT-S's!