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We welded the tall and narrow stands in place on my car. Did not even try to use the original holes or make new ones. We placed the stands for the best fit and then welded them in. Best fit also included the header clearance.
I've tried both of the Mounts from energy suspension. I initially got the tall and narrows, which were absolutely not going to work with the frame stands in the vehicle. Then purchased the short and wides. Well they are too narrow also, they can probably be beat onto the frame stands but then they will need to be holed out for the motor mount bolts to slide in.
Second, it doesn't look like the engine is going to fit where the Mounts need to be. They seem to be too far back, and the DD sliders have run out of adjustment.
So I know 1989gta took out a 6 and used tall and narrows. What about speedtigger. Did you replace a v8 from your 65?.
I pulled out a 300 with the aluminum 4v manifold.
Please help guys. I'm at a loss for what to do next.
I tried the Edelbrock adapters and it just wasn't working for me, so I fabricated my own engine mount stands. This allowed me to position the engine exactly where it fit best.
I picked up the frame perches from a 66 chevelle with a SB V8, bolted right into the Buick mount holes. I did end up removing the passengers side and building my own so the AC compressor would fit, but did start with the chevelle one on both sides
In my 65 skylark I used the Doug's headers & sk100 plates with short and wide poly mounts on chevelle 307 frame stands. I had to shave a bolt down on my steering gear box down and use a smaller dorman p/s pulley. 1 header tube had to be dented to clear the steering shaft, I'm Using an Autokraft oil pan and have major tie rod contact. Looking back, I should've adjusted the motor where it needed to be (about another 1.5" back and up) and welded the frame stands.
I just received the hooker cast swap manifolds today, im going to use them for the mock up... And as an inspiration to move onto a turbo build for phase two after proof of concept is complete and suspension upgrades sorted out.
BTW amazon sells the coated manifolds for only $10 more than the bare ones at the large performance parts online stores
I came back from our of town business for two months and found this at my mechanics shop. The hooker cast manifolds fit great as advertised.
Painless muscle car harness is going in next, tying into new reproduction under hood, and trunk harnesses.
New heater core and the po's install of an aftermarket cd player caused some issues with the heater control linkages behind the dash. Various little old car issues like the above to take care of and it should be ready shortly.
I have the same tank. That sucker must hold like 25 gallons. A few more than the factory one.
It seems to be deeper near the pump. I think the stock one was about 21 gallons. The aeromotive foam " sump" plus the depth on that end of the tank should work out well together.
It seems to be deeper near the pump. I think the stock one was about 21 gallons. The aeromotive foam " sump" plus the depth on that end of the tank should work out well together.
My "stock" tank was suppose to be around 22 gallons. I had it changed out to the newer style and ran the gas down to like 3 or 4 gallons so there would not be much to drain out.
The shop poured that back in and I went to the gas station to fill it up it took like 22.5 gallons on top of what was in there. So I am guessing around 25 gallons. But you are right, it is deeper and requires new straps. When you have them side by side you can see the difference.
And, we are about a drive shaft away from sending it to get exhaust to connect the ls manifolds to where the buick manifolds used to hang, will include an O2 bung on drivers side.
Shaft should be done as I ordered it last week, and the exhaust will be completed same day. Just have to get a tow both ways
07-16-2015, 12:53 PM
