65 Skylark Lr4 and 4L65 swap
#41
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Do you want a specific part number? I'd have to look it up. You can go to the aeromotive site to see their packages/ part number options as well as to the tanks Inc site to see their part numbers for specific applications.
Mine was bought as an assembly from aeromotive if that helps
Mine was bought as an assembly from aeromotive if that helps
#43
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It started right up. Stuttered a little, learned A/F settled into idle, kicked on the fans, sucked down fluids, till they were topped off.
Then I tried to pull it out for a test drive after a year and a half, diagnosis is junkyard trans has no line pressure...
Anyone near Joliet, or south of Chicago have a 4L65E hanging out that isn't trash and doesn't cost a ton?
I'm pretty frustrated here,about to execute orders to San Diego, and I'm about to need to ship a non-operating car to California
#45
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Just got my car out of the shop today. There's still more to do but I have a running swapped engine and transmission.
I was able to drive it the two miles home to sit for a while. Heres the situation:
I'm a Marine getting stationed in San Diego next month. I've run out of time here in Illinois to continue getting this car prepared to be a safe driver.
It took three weeks you get lift space to remove and replace the junk yard transmission with a rebuilt one. Today on start up i got a check engine light, scrolled through the diagnostics page and had a error for the wide band 02 sensor, checked harness for binding then unplugged to re seat the harness plug and all was well.
Put on the new wheels and spun 3 of the original studs, was only able to replace two of them, do I took it easy going home. Next step when I get to California will be disc brakes so all new hardware will be applied at that time.
Next the reverse lights were on in drive not reverse, so just unplugged at the harness for now.
Lastly the throttle pedal stuck to the floor when I was checking for down shift, may just be a floor mat problem, but it made for a scary situation for the three seconds it took to reach down and pull it off the floor with my hand.
Before I left the shop I used some special adhesive to secure new window rubber to the joint the front and rear side glass.
I've got to get a new condenser cool as the one I have leaks and the blower on the under dash unit only works on low (dealer installed unit part of original sale).
The Dakota digital speedometer conversion box isn't hooked up yet either and the wired under the dash need to be secured out of the way after I attempt to rebuild the original under dash unit before buying a new unit.
I'd really like to do the suspension (likely street grip system) at the same time that I do the brakes. I mean who wants to take things apart twice. She really needs body mounts too, so ya, still got a ways to go ( and the wife is loosing interest).
So ask away if you have some questions. I'd like to give a good video of how the msd sytem works as I had trouble finding anything that wasn't published by msd two to three years ago.
Wish me luck with my move and hoe the car transportation goes smoothly, let me know if you know of a decent company too!
I was able to drive it the two miles home to sit for a while. Heres the situation:
I'm a Marine getting stationed in San Diego next month. I've run out of time here in Illinois to continue getting this car prepared to be a safe driver.
It took three weeks you get lift space to remove and replace the junk yard transmission with a rebuilt one. Today on start up i got a check engine light, scrolled through the diagnostics page and had a error for the wide band 02 sensor, checked harness for binding then unplugged to re seat the harness plug and all was well.
Put on the new wheels and spun 3 of the original studs, was only able to replace two of them, do I took it easy going home. Next step when I get to California will be disc brakes so all new hardware will be applied at that time.
Next the reverse lights were on in drive not reverse, so just unplugged at the harness for now.
Lastly the throttle pedal stuck to the floor when I was checking for down shift, may just be a floor mat problem, but it made for a scary situation for the three seconds it took to reach down and pull it off the floor with my hand.
Before I left the shop I used some special adhesive to secure new window rubber to the joint the front and rear side glass.
I've got to get a new condenser cool as the one I have leaks and the blower on the under dash unit only works on low (dealer installed unit part of original sale).
The Dakota digital speedometer conversion box isn't hooked up yet either and the wired under the dash need to be secured out of the way after I attempt to rebuild the original under dash unit before buying a new unit.
I'd really like to do the suspension (likely street grip system) at the same time that I do the brakes. I mean who wants to take things apart twice. She really needs body mounts too, so ya, still got a ways to go ( and the wife is loosing interest).
So ask away if you have some questions. I'd like to give a good video of how the msd sytem works as I had trouble finding anything that wasn't published by msd two to three years ago.
Wish me luck with my move and hoe the car transportation goes smoothly, let me know if you know of a decent company too!
#48
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Thanks to both of you, obviously you have been a guiding light in my plight so far.
So here's what I know so far. The drum brakes aren't nearly as bad as they were now that the Booster is actually getting dome vacuum.
She is doing about 1500 rpm at 60 MPH in overdrive. I changed the shift point down to 5500 rpm at wot to make this junk yard engine last longer till I build one. There's some vibes, but nothing bad and she's quite loud.
I have week left in Illinois to get her on a truck to California
So here's what I know so far. The drum brakes aren't nearly as bad as they were now that the Booster is actually getting dome vacuum.
She is doing about 1500 rpm at 60 MPH in overdrive. I changed the shift point down to 5500 rpm at wot to make this junk yard engine last longer till I build one. There's some vibes, but nothing bad and she's quite loud.
I have week left in Illinois to get her on a truck to California
#49
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Guess what showed up from the UPS guy today.
That's the new level 2 kit from UMI courtesy of Matt's Classic Bowtirs.
Still waiting on the complete 4wheel disc kit as well.
Goal is to have it done by Halloween if the parts arrive soon enough.
This is the result from my move to San Diego. Took about a month but all went well with the car transport and relocation so far.
That's the new level 2 kit from UMI courtesy of Matt's Classic Bowtirs.
Still waiting on the complete 4wheel disc kit as well.
Goal is to have it done by Halloween if the parts arrive soon enough.
This is the result from my move to San Diego. Took about a month but all went well with the car transport and relocation so far.
#50
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Marbs34, I just went through your thread tonight. First, thank you for your service! Love the Buick and glad you were able to complete the move. I will be tagging along for updates.
#51
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I generally don't like blue cars, but that looks sweet with the white/cream interior...I am about to sound like a broken record, but I would do the wheels centers in gold. :-)
Andrew
#54
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I'm happy she looks nice but honestly it's just a bonus and plays second fiddle to running out well.
#56
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Had some sort of hiccup getting all of the parts in and had to wait two plus weeks for brake lines when everything else came in right away.
This is next week we've got visiting family, a Disney excursion and other things more important than the car. So I'll be digging in to get the suspension and brakes upgraded shortly.
If if you have any requests for specific information or pictures related to this upgrade please let me know
This is next week we've got visiting family, a Disney excursion and other things more important than the car. So I'll be digging in to get the suspension and brakes upgraded shortly.
If if you have any requests for specific information or pictures related to this upgrade please let me know
#57
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So this started today.
Wasted over an hour just just messing with destroyed old cotter pins, ultimately used an impact to shear them off when there was only nubs left of them.
Got as as far as removing the lower a-arms. In the process I bent a ball joint removal fork about 15 deg outward getting the right side ball joint off.
Im excited to get these new umi parts on so down the road there won't be surprises like this any longer!
wish me luck. The rest should carry me through most of the weekend.
#58
When you are finished ............the effort, time, and expense will be worth all the effort.....Congrats on your Service to the our Country and the Dedication to upgrading the car...............Great Job !!!!!
Ken
Ken
#59
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so I definitely had some issues adapting a brake kit made for a chevelle to work on the Buick.
Had to grind and down the axel flanges to fit the rotors. Also had some trouble with some of the supplied parts.
Next issue sue is that my car is pointed nose up with my 1" drop springs, it looks like the front didn't go down at all and the rear went down more than expected. I double checked for suspension binding as recommended but I don't have that issue.
So i will need to choose what to do next: cut the springs myself, order 2" drop for the front, or order the progressive rate springs from ridetech.
The results are absolutely impressive in handling though. My only issue is when driving around potholes it can be a little harsh, hence the idea to give the ridetech progressive rate springs from their street grip line a try.
Now id like to talk about my next issue.
Ive started to tackle getting the stock speedometer working with the Dakota digital box that convers vas signal to mechanical speedo output.
First issue was getting it to go into calibration mode. The instructions I believe are written to outline three different and seperate calibration processes. But the writing doesn't specifically outline that to be the case, nevertheless the box will do dictate it has entered calibration per the instructions but it will not respond to any inputs after that .
Now tyat ive left it hooked up for half a week and watching it give random inputs to my mechanical speedometer it has started making a terrible noise, a high pitched whine when in motion and stops when the car is at rest. I had to disconnect it...
at this point id like to just get a speedhut speedo and tach and do a custom dash.
motor still runs great and the atomic ls efi has been awesome.
#60
Where is the rear brake kit from? does it include an emergency brake?
heres a pic of my 65, its got spc springs, spc uppers, howe tall ball joints, currie rear arms, and ridetech hq shocks.
the ridetech shocks were the biggest improvement.
heres a pic of my 65, its got spc springs, spc uppers, howe tall ball joints, currie rear arms, and ridetech hq shocks.
the ridetech shocks were the biggest improvement.