A-body gurus inside please
A-body gurus inside please I'm about to start purchasing parts for an LS swap in a 1966 Oldsmobile 442. I've spent I don't even know how many hours scouring the web looking at early a-body swaps for ideas, but due to one variable or another, have not found anything confidence inspiring. So, the million dollar question:
Is there currently a motor mount combination available that gives (truly) acceptable driveline angles in a stock ride height early a-body?
The car currently has Oldsmobile frame mounts. I will more than likely use the Holley 302-2 pan (unless something else is strongly recommended), and an alternator only accessory drive.
I think the BRP kit looks overpriced for what it is, but is that a viable option, or do you get into issues that can only be solved by a custom CV shaft?
Is there currently a motor mount combination available that gives (truly) acceptable driveline angles in a stock ride height early a-body?
The car currently has Oldsmobile frame mounts. I will more than likely use the Holley 302-2 pan (unless something else is strongly recommended), and an alternator only accessory drive.
I think the BRP kit looks overpriced for what it is, but is that a viable option, or do you get into issues that can only be solved by a custom CV shaft?
I highly recommend going with the Holley 302-2 and its mounting system. If used Driveline angle should be good if not close.
Most OEM Front end drive setup should work find, if not, Holley has a complete line of Front end mounts and brackets.
Mixing and matching mounts, brackets and all can only lead to a lot of trial and errors..
BC
Most OEM Front end drive setup should work find, if not, Holley has a complete line of Front end mounts and brackets.
Mixing and matching mounts, brackets and all can only lead to a lot of trial and errors..
BC
Most of the motor mount adapter plates will all put your motor in the same position. I used the dingo double d mounts on my swap. One of the issues with the a body cars is the newer larger overdrive transmissions prevent desired angles unless the trans tunnel is worked over.
The 302-2 pan in particular is great. A more expensive, but vastly better solution than the LH8 pan for this swap.
Look for threads by Speedtigger. He seems to have this swap pretty well figured out.
Make sure you post some pics of the car!
Steve
Look for threads by Speedtigger. He seems to have this swap pretty well figured out.
Make sure you post some pics of the car!
Steve
Last edited by LXguy; Feb 25, 2015 at 01:20 PM.
Use whatever combination of engine mounts position the engine as low as possible in the front crossmember. I like Holley's use of the frame mounted clam shell with the u-shaped bracket that bolts to the engine. However, they don't have a bolt-in solution at this time, so some experimenting will need to take place.
Andrew
Andrew
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I'm installing an LS3 engine, 4L60E into a 1968 Chevelle. Using the Holley 302-2 oil pan. Was going to use the Hedman/BRP mount kit, until I found out that it sets the engine too high. That's because the mount kit was for the Hummer H3 oil pan, that is .75 deeper at the front.
So I'm getting the Energy Suspension LS mount kit, with the small block short & wide frame brackets. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=3.1148
Note that with these mounts, you don't need the preload plate. So this will lower the engine more that any other mount kit that I've seen.
Russ Kemp
So I'm getting the Energy Suspension LS mount kit, with the small block short & wide frame brackets. http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sp?prod=3.1148
Note that with these mounts, you don't need the preload plate. So this will lower the engine more that any other mount kit that I've seen.
Russ Kemp
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Omaha, NE
I started out trying the Dirty Dingo sliders, which put my engine too high causing severe driveline angle with my 4l60e and stock crossmember. I was able to gain significantly better angles by using the UMI swap mounts, they are lower even than the energy suspension mounts, dismantled dingo plates (factoring in just single width), and tall/narrow frame mounts that I had been thinking of going with.