1937 Ford Sedan

Last edited by Kharp; Jun 4, 2023 at 07:26 PM.
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. While I'm waiting on wheels I'm finishing knick knacks and nothing exciting or really post worthy, BUT I did get rid of the ugly exhaust tail pipes I had thrown on there just for cranking purposes. I wanted to barely see the exhaust and angled it down 20 degrees to get it away from the car but maybe not throw up any dust in parking lots. Also spent a good bit of time trying to make them even from side to side. Should be plenty good to start out with. Cranked it today and let it get up to operating temp 



The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
. Fedex found the other 2 wheels and I had them mounted on some tires. It sits exactly like I wanted, but I only took a handful of pics on my phone before I set the pinion angle and took it apart. The driveline angles turned out great. Hopefully it rides smooth. The housing is now all welded up as well as the lowering blocks, shock mounts, basically everything to install it. Eric I took out the wood lowering blocks you were so fond of
. I did have to change some brake line routings due to rearend travel so I got those knocked out today. Mocking the housing up on the bench is the way to go instead of working under the car when it's possible to do that. I sent the center section to Quick Performance for a ring gear and pinion setup (settled on 3.55 for gear ratio). The housing looks so cool on the bench I hate to take it back apart but I need to get it to Powder Coat next week if possible. When I get the housing and center section back it will be time for final assembly and install.
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. I didn't really want a bung hanging down that makes the car hard to jack up and usually cracks/and or leaks over time. My friend John Burgess gave me an idea about plating the bottom and I took that idea one step further. I made a bottom plate to fit my jack pad. Here's the pattern.
Made the plate with a nice size pilot hole for drilling to size later. Made some end pieces to hold the housing level for drilling and tapping for a 1/4" pipe plug.

Tapped until the plug was flush on the outside and is just shy of being flush on the inside.

So far so good on the leak test. Took a few days to round all this stuff up for the little simple plug, but I'm glad I took the time to figure out a design that I like and should hold up over time. NOW back to assembly LOL




Assembly in process

This is the first opportunity I've had to push the car out and look at the new wheels and stance from all angles





While the car was out I painted the seat frames to take to the interior shop

I fought the Wednesday Thanksgiving traffic to get the car to Bradillac's. They have done some really nice rides and I can't wait to work with them on Penny. This go around will only include seats to match the original interior to get the car on the road, but I'm hoping to brainstorm some ideas for later while the car is there in his shop.
Last edited by Kharp; Nov 24, 2023 at 05:45 PM.




Last edited by Kharp; Dec 9, 2023 at 03:35 PM.
Last edited by Kharp; Dec 12, 2023 at 06:28 PM.

. Starting at the intake here is how I got to the booster.Step 1 dropping to the right size - the intake port OD is an odd size and maybe/probably metric?? I didn't take the time to figure out the metric size because I discovered that 1/2" heater hose fits nicely, but my port on the booster is 3/8" so I needed to drop to that size. I bought a brass barbed adaptor that drops it from 1/2" to 3/8". I found mine at Lowes in the plumbing section.

Once down to 3/8" size I discovered Gates actually makes some hose for this application. It's 11/32" ID and has a thicker wall and it is a little stiffer than 3/8" fuel hose. I'm sure there are 3/8" fuel hose examples out there with no issues, but I would rather not take any chances on this and I think its a good investment at $3.50/foot. Here is a pic of the difference in fuel hose and brake booster hose with the booster hose being on the right (Gates 27230 bought at O'Reillys). O'Reillys also has the 1/2' brake booster hose, which is actually 15/32" ID, and is Gates part number 27231 if you don't have to drop the size down.

Step 2 making a hard line - I had some 3/8" aluminum tubing leftover from something so I made a pattern for a hard line and then made the final hard line out of steel. I did the first step of a double flare on the ends to keep the hoses on there tight. My booster is under the drivers side floorboard so this hard line clamps to the floorboard and runs to a bracket on the back of the drivers side cylinder head. So the hard line makes most of the run with a short piece of the Gates 27230 hose on each end connecting to the intake and booster. Now back to the brake system LOL
Last edited by Kharp; Jan 14, 2024 at 05:49 PM.
. The pic is under the rear seat. 











