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Can anyone confirm the length of injectors that fit? I am trying to find out if they are the longer or shorter style. I want to buy some aftermarket SD. I think I am going to get 80# injectors. I figure they will be a bit big for for a stock setup, but I plan on a cam, ported heads and blower if I go this route, otherwise, I will have a TC78 Turbonetics and 12#'s.
LS3/7/9/A injector length
I have an LS2 (with LS3 heads) in an 86 Monte SS & want to put the Cadillac supercharger on it. I actually already have it. But I mounted the engine 1" back and don't want to redo that, I have the Holley AC compressor mounting it up high on the passenger side because I dont have room down low. I have debated this setup from LSXConcepts. Others have said there isn't enough belt wrap on the supercharger pulley. I will have to change AC bracket, they say their stuff wont work with the Holly bracket. Here is what their setup looks like:
Theres no reason their AC stuff wont work with the Holley LS drivers side bracket. The Holley LS AC bracket is highly suspect though when using their SC tensioner mount
samckitt, Thanks for posting up that option. According to what their website says, it can be used with the Corvette fead, just need the LSA waterpump and lower crank pulley. I, like probably everyone here, and trying to piece together a full working setup.
If you're considering the corvette FEAD, buy the whole kit together. Dont piece it together. Another option is the Holley LS bracket as it emulates the Corvette FEAD, only without the unique alternator. Those use the common Fbody/S10/Truck LS alts. A new Holley bracket, rock auto PS pump, alt will be cheaper than any other kit
Not changing fuel pressure is more of a variable. The reason why pressure is raised 1:1 is to counteract the boost trying to push the fuel backwards down the injector's throat. Flow shouldn't actually change as the pressure goes up with boost, it's reduced at idle because the intake vacuum attempts to suck the fuel out of the injector....
Exactly. Thats why the corvete filter/reg doesnt play well with boost
That was my point exactly, the comment was made about tuners desiring to NOT have pressure vary which IS what you get with a vac/boost referenced regulator. However, the injector flow remains steady with the varied flow because it's counteracting the vac/boost going on with the engine. A tuner that says they don't like that seems odd which is why I mentioned it. Having steady reliable fuel flow and more importantly injector flow is desired. I've had to tune cars where fuel flow varied, it's a nightmare! Boost reference it for sure IMO. Returnless systems are another kettle, not played with those.
Mine is drive by cable. I deleted the egr solenoid and made a bracket to run the cable around the passenger side of the blower. I'm using an edelbrock 90mm tb and the throttle cam clears the blower pulley by about 0.125" at full throttle. I also had to space the lsa power steering tank up 1.0" to clear the tps and iac.
Mine is drive by cable. I deleted the egr solenoid and made a bracket to run the cable around the passenger side of the blower. I'm using an edelbrock 90mm tb and the throttle cam clears the blower pulley by about 0.125" at full throttle. I also had to space the lsa power steering tank up 1.0" to clear the tps and iac.
I've got the same tb also. Do you have cruise control? I've already got cruise on my car and wanna keep it if I can.
That was my point exactly, the comment was made about tuners desiring to NOT have pressure vary which IS what you get with a vac/boost referenced regulator. However, the injector flow remains steady with the varied flow because it's counteracting the vac/boost going on with the engine. A tuner that says they don't like that seems odd which is why I mentioned it. Having steady reliable fuel flow and more importantly injector flow is desired. I've had to tune cars where fuel flow varied, it's a nightmare! Boost reference it for sure IMO. Returnless systems are another kettle, not played with those.
Thanks! Yeah, on turbo cars, I have always ran a boost referenced regulator, and planned on doing the same, but started to consider maybe that vaporworxs PWM pump setup like a factory CTSV pump, IDK. Without something making up for the boost, sounds like a recipe to melt something down IMO.
OK< so I have started collecting parts and have some more questions. I have a CTSV lid. It has 2 MAP sensors on it. What are you guys doing with these? I understand wiring in 1, but the other IDK what to do with. I can't seem to find much info on the CTSV lid, looks like everything has the ZL1 lid as a upgrade, but I probably won't have room to fit that under my hood.
Ebay 92mm. Truck cable bracket mounted to some flat stock alum. Cruise nub seems to clear, havent added it yet. Will switch to a traction control motor if there isnt room for cruise. Leave it unplugged and both cables will join so one to the TB
DBC here too. Running FAST 102mm tb, and a Holley throttle cable bracket which sandwiches between throttle body and the snout. Worked out great because I lost the oring groove when snout was ported to clear the 102mm blade, and Holley throttle bracket comes with 2 paper gaskets.
That was my point exactly, the comment was made about tuners desiring to NOT have pressure vary which IS what you get with a vac/boost referenced regulator. However, the injector flow remains steady with the varied flow because it's counteracting the vac/boost going on with the engine. A tuner that says they don't like that seems odd which is why I mentioned it. Having steady reliable fuel flow and more importantly injector flow is desired. I've had to tune cars where fuel flow varied, it's a nightmare! Boost reference it for sure IMO. Returnless systems are another kettle, not played with those.
I'm not a tuner so I'm not the expert, but the tuner who said boost referenced is an unnecessary complication is pretty qualified. GM engineer, tunes Stielow's 1000 hp blown LS7's etc. The guy that actually tuned it is Dr Phill who is pretty well known in Det area and he had no problem with the setup either. Car runs great. So I'd say both ways can get it done.
following this pretty intently as I'm going to be doing an LSA swap into my 68 Camaro. As of now I'm leaning towards a Rick's tank with a ZL1 fuel module and a Vaporworx pwm unit. Seems to be the easiest (though admittedly costly) and reliable set up .
I'm not a tuner so I'm not the expert, but the tuner who said boost referenced is an unnecessary complication is pretty qualified. GM engineer, tunes Stielow's 1000 hp blown LS7's etc. The guy that actually tuned it is Dr Phill who is pretty well known in Det area and he had no problem with the setup either. Car runs great. So I'd say both ways can get it done.
Isn't the LSA fuel rail returnless?
Boost referenced is to maintain even flow rate of the injectors leading to making it easier to tune. To each their own
Yes LSAs are returnless. Doesnt mean you cant run an AFPR still
Thanks for the info Pocket and everyone else. I've seen a couple of units on ebay for around 700 which doesn't seem too bad. Anyone know how far from the valley it sits with the camaro top half on it?
I plan to use an lq4 short block, with eBay takeout l92 heads and lsa blower with a camaro top
OK. Stupid question. I set my LSA supercharger on LS3 heads today, and it wouldn't sit flat. I tipped it up, and found this hollow pin on the passenger side. I am assuming this is an alignment pin? Should I pull it out, cut it off?
OK. Stupid question. I set my LSA supercharger on LS3 heads today, and it wouldn't sit flat. I tipped it up, and found this hollow pin on the passenger side. I am assuming this is an alignment pin? Should I pull it out, cut it off?
Thanks.
Sounds crazy, but easiest way is to hammer it. It'll crack and fall apart. I couldn't pull it out or drill it out.
If you're a perfectionist you can drill/pull it out, but not worth the hassle when it breaks so easy. Just be careful of course to not mar up the surface. I think mine actually started breaking just when I was trying to wiggle it with vise grip. Combo of that and light hammering broke it completely off.
Another question for anyone who has a Zl1 lid available.
How tall is the back of the lid? The shorter part before it curves upward? I have about 2.5 inches clearance at that point, hoping this lid will fit under there.
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