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Need a little help on understanding the fueling needs for my project. It's a Iron "LS2" with LS3 heads, L96 truck intake and injectors (for now) and it's naturally aspirated. I've built a run stand to break the engine in and make sure I've built it right (first 100% from scratch build) with no noises or leaks. Anyhow, I am wondering if this is enough fuel pump for the job:
It should work for what your wanting to do, (on a run stand) but I might not run that pump on the car. I have heard of alot of those Airtex pumps getting hot and not working properly.
Just buy a cheap Walbro, whether in tank or external, whichever suits your needs.
But unless you can load the engine up on the stand, you're wasting your time trying to break anything in.
Also seems a little extreme to check for leaks ?
"Initial break-in" I guess I should have said. The deal with the run stand is this: This is the first engine that I've built 100% from a bare block and I want to run it so I can check all the vital signs. More to the point, the car it's going in (1983 BMW 533I) is already a V8 swap (GT40 5.0L / T5) car that runs great and is completely sorted. Before tearing the car apart and re-engineering all the mounts, exhaust, plumbing, wiring, etc I want to make sure I've built a good LS engine.
I use a 2000 corvette filter / regulator and a used in tank gm pump. You will not be loading it enough to need any special pump. In fact I have snagged one from a cavalier tank that was laying outside the car at u wrench it. Cost $10. It works fine.
The mufflers are off of a Gen 5 Camaro SS, got the entire OEM cutback for $20 off craiglist. I wanted something that has the CFM required but was still fairly quiet so I can hear the engine itself. You're run stands look great!
Built a SS fuel cell and used that inline pump ($25 brand new off Craigslist) and the Vette filter/regulator. Haven't run the engine yet but did run the pump and check for pressure and leaks. Looks good to go!
Needs electric cooling fan and detachable bell housing cover for flex plate. Thx for not being stupid and pointing the exhaust directly at the control panel like other commercial versions.
Lots of fun testing on the engine run stand, huh. :-)
Needs electric cooling fan and detachable bell housing cover for flex plate. Thx for not being stupid and pointing the exhaust directly at the control panel like other commercial versions.
Lots of fun testing on the engine run stand, huh. :-)
Picked up the e-fan and accessory bracket today so I can finish the cooling system. Gotta find a T56 anyway so I guess I could use its bell. Looking forward to running it at length once I have the radiator tied in. Only ran it for a total of about 20 seconds so far...
I love the variety I see in engine test stands. Some are absolutely scary contraptions waiting to maim while others are almost works of art designed by an engineering mind. Yours and aknovaman's fit the latter category.
I love the fuel tank, but it's a bit on the overkill side isn't it? Haha
Although I had to laugh at the battery hold down and temporary radiator cap.
I love the variety I see in engine test stands. Some are absolutely scary contraptions waiting to maim while others are almost works of art designed by an engineering mind. Yours and aknovaman's fit the latter category.
I love the fuel tank, but it's a bit on the overkill side isn't it? Haha
Although I had to laugh at the battery hold down and temporary radiator cap.
Yeah, the clamp for the battery is funny looking. I got anxious to run it so I borrowed the battery from the car. It will be engineered properly soon enough. The "temporary" radiator cap was only to keep stuff from falling down in there, radiator wasn't connected at all during the video. As for the fuel tank, yep it's a bit overkill but as is the case on most of my projects I have more materials and fabrication time then money. It was cheaper to buy some stainless scrap from my employer and spend an hour tig welding it up then buying a fuel cell.
Thanks for the kind words on the build, I appreciate it!
My lq9 which is also on a stand is idling high, however I'm running a 80psi pump with no regulator on it.
Could that be the problem?
No expert as I am still learning myself but I would think that the 80 psi (without proper tuning to change the injector pulse width) would cause an artificially high flow rate created by excess fuel pressure would cause you to run way rich. If the mixture is way to fat the PCM may be opening the idle air control motor (DBC) or throttle blade (DBW) in effort to get the airflow to better match the fuel flow and save the cats.
I would say to get a proper regulator on there before attempting to do any other troubleshooting would help quite a bit. You should post your question in a new thread in the tuning forum to get an experts take on the issue. As I said, I am a novice myself.
S.F.
Last edited by StolenFox; Oct 19, 2015 at 01:44 PM.
Good luck with that. Each one I find is expensive enough (plus a rebuild with me doing the labour) that a new in box T-56 magnum starts looking good.
I've seen 4L60E bell housings on ebay, craigslist and salvage yards. For my run stand project I've got a bell I found on a salvage transmission. Even better, I acquired it for almost nothing.
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Fueling needs for 6.0L on run stand? *EDIT* 
