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i had a little fail a few months ago when i was trying to lift the car from the front rad support. It was totally fine when the car had no motor but i guess i diddent realize how heavy the motor really was and the thing collapsed in the middle where the jack was supporting it. It bent up literally 8" in the middle and i had to use a scissor jack against the top support to try and straighten it.
Anyway i cut that section out and replaced it with some square stock i had laying around lol. Someone left this at my house a few years ago and it turned out to be the exact size of the frame rails so it was an obvious choice. Cut a notch for the rad to sit in and made some little brackets on the bottom to hold it in.
Also finished mounting my IC and doing the piping. I think it came out pretty good i just need to weld on the BOV flange. The reason for the long coupler is because thats a super tight section between the bumper and the frame so the coupler allows it to squish a little without loosing any cross sectional area.
Well i had to take a little hiatus to install my lift in the garage. Its all finished up now and im starting on the custom fuel cell and other things that i have saved for after the lift was done. All i really have left is power wiring, driveshaft, brake lines, and final engine assembly.
I have a two post at my shop but I dont really go out there now that my family has taken over the floor space ( long story) and it wont fit at my basement so I was looking at this style of lift as a replacement.
I have a two post at my shop but I dont really go out there now that my family has taken over the floor space ( long story) and it wont fit at my basement so I was looking at this style of lift as a replacement.
for a cramped garage its totally awesome.
here is my build thread in case your interested. Start at post 718
Hey thanks for the link, thats an awesome build thread for your garage ive never been to that site before. Im not short on floor space just on height. mostly because of the ac ducting in the basement and a little bit of location. Ive gone back and forth between the max jax and a scissor style lift like yours though not an ingound model. leaning more towards the scissor lift just because of where I want to put it the post for a max jack would be really close to an exterior wall and thats kind of a no no..
ok guys progress has been a little slow but i stopped traveling for work so ive had a little time to work on the car. I started taking a solidworks class to get my CSWA cert (just for fun really) and it has lead me to design my fuel system from scratch. I could not find a fuel cell that fit where i wanted it to and all of the top hats that are out there are typically meant for an OEM application fitment and nothing universal.
so i started by cutting out my spare tire well and taking some measurements for a custom fuel cell. I could fit roughly a 34x16x10 box in there and i know i wanted to use the stock fuel neck in order to fill it (ive heard filling a fuel cell thats inside the car stinks no matter if you spill fuel or not).
I also wanted to use 2 x walbro 450LPH in-tank pumps as i did not want the whine of the external pump and most of the externals are super expensive.
Here is my design so far:
i am using 3 -8AN fittings on the top (2 supply, 1 return), this dorman level sender
, and a 6 pin connector from squash performance. There is going to be some hose that connects the pumps to the bottom of the tophat but otherwise its complete. The tank walls will be made from .090" 5052 aluminum. I bought a 4x8 sheet for $84 and the cheapest i found to have this tank made was ~$500.
The elongated holes in the sides of the tank baffle are for use with these trapdoors:
I am also not sure if i need any other baffling in the tank but the car will mostly be used for street driving with occasional track use. Does anyone have any recommendations?
You might not try too hard to reinvent those senders and level sensors... These guys have figured out quite a bit of the fuel tank game. Lots of guys use these pump hangers, including myself and have had pretty good luck with them.
You might not try too hard to reinvent those senders and level sensors... These guys have figured out quite a bit of the fuel tank game. Lots of guys use these pump hangers, including myself and have had pretty good luck with them.
Also, Areomotive has a more sleek design, but is quite a bit more expensive.
Check out their "Stealth" kits. They're a universal design.
ive seen all of these designs but unfortunately they dont offer enough flow for me. I need something in the neighborhood of 680LPH to meet my goals and the stealth 340's cant do that and the other link above is only for a single kit. I guess this was my way of saving some money and putting some of my newly acquired skills to the test.
ive seen all of these designs but unfortunately they dont offer enough flow for me. I need something in the neighborhood of 680LPH to meet my goals and the stealth 340's cant do that and the other link above is only for a single kit. I guess this was my way of saving some money and putting some of my newly acquired skills to the test.
wow ive actually never seen that but unfortunately it says it cannot be used to couple walbro pumps. I think its because the walbro's dont use an o-ring design on the pump outlet (they use a barb).
wow ive actually never seen that but unfortunately it says it cannot be used to couple walbro pumps. I think its because the walbro's dont use an o-ring design on the pump outlet (they use a barb).
Ya, I think it's initially not designed for walbro 450's, but I've used it for dual 255's. I believe it will work for dual 450's, even though they are barbed, but tying them together might be a task.
Ya, I think it's initially not designed for walbro 450's, but I've used it for dual 255's. I believe it will work for dual 450's, even though they are barbed, but tying them together might be a task.
i have another project coming up for a friend that has dual DW300's so i might try and incorporate a design like this with those. Thanks!
finally got the parts to my tank cutout and started welding them together. I made some changes to the original design to add some more baffling. here is how it turned out:
I also cut down the oil pan and shortened the pickup to allow clearance under the car. Its now level with the K-member. I did add back the second brace to the pickup which is not pictured.
started soaking lifters and rockers.
tapped and plugged the water pump.
brakes are also 100% done.
Finally got the pinion yoke installed and measured for the driveshaft. I bought a spacer kit instead of the crush sleeve so i needed this handy contraption to help keep the yoke from spinning while i torqued it. I choose the strange 3".
02-26-2016, 07:41 PM
