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Cool. Any chance it'll be done in the new few weeks or so? And which engine mounts would go with this?
No, it's going to take a few months to bring it to market as the El Camino we're using to develop it is going to have to get an unplanned frame swap before I can mock-up the crossmember...the frame was bent in a previous wreck. Once it does get released, it will work with either set of the Hooker engine brackets.
The mid length headers will not clear the clutch fork so a Hyd clutch is a must
Tim
Thanks for confirming that Tim...I figured it would end up being the case. So did you end up using a different set of headers, or changing your clutch linkage?
I've attached this diagram depicting the effects of engine placement on driveline/U-joint angles for you guys using 4L80/4L85 transmissions in your A-body swaps. This should help you visualize, before you buy any parts, how using forward-bias engine mounting brackets allows you to achieve far better U-joint working angles than using typical 1"set-back engine brackets, unless you are willing to cut/rebuild the choke point in the tunnel of all 64-72 A-bodies just behind the transmission well. The overall effect is best observed by training your eyes on the bottom surfaces of the transmission pans of both positions depicted.
If using the rear-bias mounts how much room is there between the heads and firewall? I was thinking about putting my coils on the back of the heads.
I don't have a discrete measurement I can give you, but the rear surface of the cylinder heads would be 1" further back than a set of SB Chevy heads would be in an OE installation. This attached photo shows the clearance between the heads and the firewall when using the Hooker forward-bias engine brackets, so you may me able to mentally gauge how much space would be remaining to mount your coils behind the cylinder heads with the engine moved back 1.25" from this location...it would definitely be tight.
I have a set of the 70201310RHKR
1 7/8 to 3" stainless mid lengths.
New one header came out of the box to test fit.
Going to return them next week but I will sell them to cut someone a deal.
They are beautiful headers. TIG welded. Just would not clear the manual clutch linkage.
Yes, it certainly would. I'm tempted to get those mounts but I'm concerned about potentially having to refit my exhaust. I did just buy a welder though, so I could probably handle that in-house now.
Am I doing something wrong or is there no option for LS motor anywhere? When I go to the site to look for part numbers, be it for headers, mounts, whateve - LS isn't an option and it just says "We couldn't find what you're looking for. Ask our experts..."
Am I doing something wrong or is there no option for LS motor anywhere? When I go to the site to look for part numbers, be it for headers, mounts, whateve - LS isn't an option and it just says "We couldn't find what you're looking for. Ask our experts..."
If using the forward position brackets. Do you have issues with driveline angles? What if the car was lowered from the stock ride height? I would like to mod my original cross member, but if the holley cross member makes everything work I will be happy to buy it. Can anyone help? Todd seems very busy. I am new to this whole driveline thing. Thanks
If using the forward position brackets. Do you have issues with driveline angles? What if the car was lowered from the stock ride height? I would like to mod my original cross member, but if the holley cross member makes everything work I will be happy to buy it. Can anyone help? Todd seems very busy. I am new to this whole driveline thing. Thanks
You will typically not experience difficulties obtaining desirable U-joint operating angles with either set of the Hooker engine swap brackets. What trans and rearend are you using and what amount of rear suspension drop?
You will typically not experience difficulties obtaining desirable U-joint operating angles with either set of the Hooker engine swap brackets. What trans and rearend are you using and what amount of rear suspension drop?
Todd I am running the 4L80E and the stock 12bolt. The suspension is all stock right now. The car seems to sit lower due to old springs I think. I would like a lower look. Not sure if I want to go 1" or 2". But I know I want that lower look. I have a welder and I have done tons of fabrication. My plans would be to take the stock cross member and turn it into a 2 piece design like the holley member. But if the holley cross member allows for more wiggle room then I will purchase it. Thanks
06-19-2016, 11:19 AM
