Conversions & Swaps LSX Engines in Non-LSX Vehicles
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Old 09-05-2016, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
No, I haven't had the opportunity to do it yet as the car is still up on the lift. As soon as I can lower it I'll take a shot for you.
No worries. Thanks!

Seeing that picture really got me thinking about doing a T56 Magnum in my GTO.

Andrew
Old 09-05-2016, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
No worries. Thanks!

Seeing that picture really got me thinking about doing a T56 Magnum in my GTO.

Andrew
It would be sweet and it will go in nicely as long as you have body bushings in good condition and you're patient enough to hammer clearance a couple of tight spots.
Old 09-06-2016, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
The lower you go with your rear suspension with that 12-bolt, the larger your U-joint operating angles will be. You can run a 1" drop and easily end up with excellent U-joint angles. A 2" drop would be at the limit for not having to cut the tunnel open to adjust angles and anything more than that I wouldn't recommend unless you were running a Ford 9" rear.
So is a 9" a better choice at getting drive line angels optimal vs a 12 bolt? Considering replacing my 12 bolt w a new 9".
Old 09-06-2016, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by korndawg
So is a 9" a better choice at getting drive line angels optimal vs a 12 bolt? Considering replacing my 12 bolt w a new 9".
Yes, the 9" is vastly better in that regard on any car lowered more than an inch in the rear.
Old 09-06-2016, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
Yes, the 9" is vastly better in that regard on any car lowered more than an inch in the rear.
How about factory ride height cars (like mine). May consider 1" lowering but thats yet to be decided. Long ways away for that!
Old 09-06-2016, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by korndawg
How about factory ride height cars (like mine). May consider 1" lowering but thats yet to be decided. Long ways away for that!
Using a 9" with stock ride height is fine, because the operating angles can be tuned with adjustable rear upper control arms. This cannon be done once the car has been lowered past a certain point.

Andrew
Old 09-06-2016, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
Using a 9" with stock ride height is fine, because the operating angles can be tuned with adjustable rear upper control arms. This cannon be done once the car has been lowered past a certain point.

Andrew
Was hoping to save a few hundred $$$ if possible, lol. This swap is kicking by funds' butt!
Old 09-06-2016, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by korndawg
Was hoping to save a few hundred $$$ if possible, lol. This swap is kicking by funds' butt!
If you are going to stay at stock ride height, or drop the rear with common 1" drop springs, there is no geometric U-joint advantage going with the 9"...you can use the 12-bolt with great results in such applications.
Old 09-06-2016, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by korndawg
Was hoping to save a few hundred $$$ if possible, lol. This swap is kicking by funds' butt!
I hear that...whatever you think it is going to cost, double it and you'll be close.

Andrew
Old 09-06-2016, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
I hear that...whatever you think it is going to cost, double it and you'll be close.

Andrew
Exactly!
Old 09-07-2016, 08:22 AM
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I hear that...whatever you think it is going to cost, double it and you'll be close.

Andrew[/QUOTE]

my build has been going on so long I have seen my budget double at least twice, so now I set the budget at the cost of a new Corvette. At least this way it keeps up with inflation and when I hit the max I just have to wait another year for my budget to catch up. If reality dictates I double that, I may have a problem.
Old 09-07-2016, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ycgoat
I hear that...whatever you think it is going to cost, double it and you'll be close.

Andrew
my build has been going on so long I have seen my budget double at least twice, so now I set the budget at the cost of a new Corvette. At least this way it keeps up with inflation and when I hit the max I just have to wait another year for my budget to catch up. If reality dictates I double that, I may have a problem.[/QUOTE]

Atleast I'm single and not throwing my money away on a woman that will only go on to cheating on me and leaving me nothing. My Chevelle isn't going anywhere!
Old 09-07-2016, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by korndawg
my build has been going on so long I have seen my budget double at least twice, so now I set the budget at the cost of a new Corvette. At least this way it keeps up with inflation and when I hit the max I just have to wait another year for my budget to catch up. If reality dictates I double that, I may have a problem.
Atleast I'm single and not throwing my money away on a woman that will only go on to cheating on me and leaving me nothing. My Chevelle isn't going anywhere![/QUOTE]

You better be careful, your car make take offense to being referred to as a woman.
Old 09-07-2016, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
Atleast I'm single and not throwing my money away on a woman that will only go on to cheating on me and leaving me nothing. My Chevelle isn't going anywhere!
You better be careful, your car make take offense to being referred to as a woman.[/QUOTE]

Old 09-08-2016, 11:39 PM
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Default 408 stroker wih rod studs and 302-2 pan

Todd,
I want to put a 408 K1 stroker kit in first. I have the ability to kit out the middle of the 302-2 pan. Will the new dished area in the pan have clearance issue with the tierods or cross member? I am worried the ARP2000 studs will need a little extra clearance that the one picture I saw in this thread. How much room do I have to add to the middle of the pan.
Old 09-09-2016, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by redtacoma31
Todd,
I want to put a 408 K1 stroker kit in first. I have the ability to kit out the middle of the 302-2 pan. Will the new dished area in the pan have clearance issue with the tierods or cross member? I am worried the ARP2000 studs will need a little extra clearance that the one picture I saw in this thread. How much room do I have to add to the middle of the pan.
The interference areas related to the inner tie rod ends are located along the sides of the pan, so you shouldn't have any issues as long as you keep your fabricated clearance well confined as much as possible to the centerline of the pan.
Old 09-11-2016, 07:50 PM
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Nice job Todd and the folks at Holley. Today I dropped my LS3 onto the holley forward position frame mounts with the 302-2 pan. I was amazed that everything fit up perfectly and literally in minutes I had bolts through the mounts. Car is a 68 olds cutlass convertible.
As discussed here, the pan has finger clearance above and behind the cross member.
Someone earlier in the thread also asked, what is the distance between the rear of the block and the firewall. It is about 3.5" or about 1/16" bigger than the height of a 2x4 when the bolts slip in perfect and the motor weight is not yet on the mounts.

I'll report on the 1 7/8" long tube headers and 4L65E when I get to that.
Old 09-11-2016, 08:00 PM
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Regarding the 4L65E, is there a specific transmission mount that should be used to obtain the proper geometry? Does anyone know the p/n?
Old 09-12-2016, 02:53 PM
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Is anyone using the mid length headers? Im thinking of getting a set and wonder if anyone has a picture of them installed. Im Going with an Ls3 with the forward position mounts and a T56 magnum in My 70 Chevelle. I've considered the Manifolds as well but I may go with a blown LSx in the future and I'm thinking the 1 7/8 mid length headers would be good for now and later. I like the ground clearance. and the extra room from the mid length headers. Any concerns with stainless? I've always bought Ceramic headers. Is the heat a factor with stainless?
Old 09-12-2016, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 68conv455
Regarding the 4L65E, is there a specific transmission mount that should be used to obtain the proper geometry? Does anyone know the p/n?
You can use the Prothane 7-1604 mount, the equivalent Energy Suspension poly, or equivalent OE replacement rubber mount.


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