New Hooker 1968-72 A-Body LS Swap System Preview
#522
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It would be sweet and it will go in nicely as long as you have body bushings in good condition and you're patient enough to hammer clearance a couple of tight spots.
#523
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The lower you go with your rear suspension with that 12-bolt, the larger your U-joint operating angles will be. You can run a 1" drop and easily end up with excellent U-joint angles. A 2" drop would be at the limit for not having to cut the tunnel open to adjust angles and anything more than that I wouldn't recommend unless you were running a Ford 9" rear.
#524
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
#525
#526
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (7)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Andrew
#527
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
#528
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If you are going to stay at stock ride height, or drop the rear with common 1" drop springs, there is no geometric U-joint advantage going with the 9"...you can use the 12-bolt with great results in such applications.
#531
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I hear that...whatever you think it is going to cost, double it and you'll be close.
Andrew[/QUOTE]
my build has been going on so long I have seen my budget double at least twice, so now I set the budget at the cost of a new Corvette. At least this way it keeps up with inflation and when I hit the max I just have to wait another year for my budget to catch up. If reality dictates I double that, I may have a problem.
Andrew[/QUOTE]
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
#532
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
Atleast I'm single and not throwing my money away on a woman that will only go on to cheating on me and leaving me nothing. My Chevelle isn't going anywhere!
#533
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
You better be careful, your car make take offense to being referred to as a woman.
#534
#535
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Todd,
I want to put a 408 K1 stroker kit in first. I have the ability to kit out the middle of the 302-2 pan. Will the new dished area in the pan have clearance issue with the tierods or cross member? I am worried the ARP2000 studs will need a little extra clearance that the one picture I saw in this thread. How much room do I have to add to the middle of the pan.
I want to put a 408 K1 stroker kit in first. I have the ability to kit out the middle of the 302-2 pan. Will the new dished area in the pan have clearance issue with the tierods or cross member? I am worried the ARP2000 studs will need a little extra clearance that the one picture I saw in this thread. How much room do I have to add to the middle of the pan.
#536
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Todd,
I want to put a 408 K1 stroker kit in first. I have the ability to kit out the middle of the 302-2 pan. Will the new dished area in the pan have clearance issue with the tierods or cross member? I am worried the ARP2000 studs will need a little extra clearance that the one picture I saw in this thread. How much room do I have to add to the middle of the pan.
I want to put a 408 K1 stroker kit in first. I have the ability to kit out the middle of the 302-2 pan. Will the new dished area in the pan have clearance issue with the tierods or cross member? I am worried the ARP2000 studs will need a little extra clearance that the one picture I saw in this thread. How much room do I have to add to the middle of the pan.
#537
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Nice job Todd and the folks at Holley. Today I dropped my LS3 onto the holley forward position frame mounts with the 302-2 pan. I was amazed that everything fit up perfectly and literally in minutes I had bolts through the mounts. Car is a 68 olds cutlass convertible.
As discussed here, the pan has finger clearance above and behind the cross member.
Someone earlier in the thread also asked, what is the distance between the rear of the block and the firewall. It is about 3.5" or about 1/16" bigger than the height of a 2x4 when the bolts slip in perfect and the motor weight is not yet on the mounts.
I'll report on the 1 7/8" long tube headers and 4L65E when I get to that.
As discussed here, the pan has finger clearance above and behind the cross member.
Someone earlier in the thread also asked, what is the distance between the rear of the block and the firewall. It is about 3.5" or about 1/16" bigger than the height of a 2x4 when the bolts slip in perfect and the motor weight is not yet on the mounts.
I'll report on the 1 7/8" long tube headers and 4L65E when I get to that.
#539
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is anyone using the mid length headers? Im thinking of getting a set and wonder if anyone has a picture of them installed. Im Going with an Ls3 with the forward position mounts and a T56 magnum in My 70 Chevelle. I've considered the Manifolds as well but I may go with a blown LSx in the future and I'm thinking the 1 7/8 mid length headers would be good for now and later. I like the ground clearance. and the extra room from the mid length headers. Any concerns with stainless? I've always bought Ceramic headers. Is the heat a factor with stainless?
#540
TECH Junkie
Thread Starter