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Got the a/c and bracket installed. But not without the 2 steps forward, one step back routine! I needed to remove my water pump so I could get to the bracket mounting bolts. Then, my a/c compressor would not fit unless I cut off one of it's rear mounting ears! It sits close to the shock tower, but doesn't touch it. Started on the drivers side bracket. Need to get a different fitting for my p/s pump to reservoir tank. Also need to re-index the alternator housing so my plug is on top.
Looking good. Did you mount per Novak recommendations? I've got mine mounted and it seems to sit a little low. I ran 1in motor mounts on the old 4.0l which put the transfer case at a better angle allowing for better drive line angles.
For pdxmotorhead- Our jeeps are heavier than the ******! I too am looking forward to a nice 6 speed/OD auto trans! The ones in escalades and gmc's felt pretty good and like you said, mileage is a little better. I'm under no delusion that the 6 speed will give me great mileage! I've got big knobby tires catching air along with the boxy jeep body, lifted to enhance catching more air underneath! Add in an extra axle, low gearing and extra drag of the T/C and mileage is not going to be great! But...compared to the same jeep with an anemic engine, humming in it's own rpm zone; I think our mileage will be better! The trick will be keeping my foot out of it! On jeeps there are so many variables that determine mileage. How far north are you going?
Funny thing about Jeep MPG's. We drive ours a bunch to work and back (about 80 miles round trip) so for fun i have logged the MPG's often with the different setups.
Box Stock 2004 TJ 2.4 5spd = 17-18mpg
Same TJ with 35's and a 4.5" long arm = 17-18mpg
Add 5.3/4l60e =17-18mpg
Swap factory 4.10's for D44/8.8 w/ 4.88's.... 17-18mpg
In conclusion, Jeeps are bricks and get what they get
Dalton Highway... Yea my YJ is currently about 3800lbs, the ****** weighed about 2600.. Lost track of it but the 3 owners after me all ended up in the ditch somewhere.. Driving a jeep is like driving with your drag chute deployed ... LOL
For Conquest- I followed Novaks instructions, but it seemed a bit too far back. if I had to do it again, I'd pull my front fenders from the start and bolt the mounts to the engine and determine it that way. With accessory drive on as well!
For Floader- My gmc Yukon xl is the same way! 10-11 mpg pulling a trailer or empty!
For PDX- That will be an adventure! I've heard that the road rattles the **** out of everything! Can you say Loctite!
Got the trans mount welded up and painted. Set it outside to dry and came back to find crows had perched on it and **** all over it! Wife is blaming the millennial next door for playing angry birds in HD!
Trans mount installed and transfer case mounted. Working on clearance issues for the transmission linkage. This went smoother than anticipated...I must have forgotten some parts!
looks good. I am basically at the same point with my swap. LS2 into a 97 TJ. I had the same clearance issue as you but caught it before I did the final welding on the mounts. I moved them forward about .75". Now the issue is, there is absolutely no space between the novak radiator and the accessories. As you can see from my intake, next issue to solve is the upper radiator hose. Starting to think this Jeep is fighting back on the swap.
I also had a similar issue with the headers touching the motor mounts. 1" bodylift and lifting the whole drivetrain higher in the rear solved the issue. only about 1/8" clearence.
LS1 XJ- Looks good! What paint did you use for your intake manifold? Also, could you route the intake tube differently so the upper radiator hose will clear? I haven't put my grill on to see if things will clear.
As you can see from my intake, next issue to solve is the upper radiator hose... LoL need to go to bed earlier instead of surfing forums all night. That was supposed to be two separate sentences.
The intake has no chance of fitting between the block and the radiator. Last night I figured out the upper radiator hose. I cut off half the water neck to get the space needed to run the hose.
The paint is duplicolor metalcast. I used their primer, paint, and clear. It's like a pearl metallic.
Those intakes being painted, really step it up!
I need more clearance to rotate the t/c upward. Front drive shaft will hit the trans linkage and vent on top of t/c is too close to the body. Considering lowering the trans mount to gain room. To do this, I'll remove it first and rotate t/c then lift it into the zone. Then connect everything and look for problems. Meanwhile there are plenty of little items to connect. The pic's of your guys projects give me hope. Thanks!
Finally got mine test fitted. I ended up using Novak's recommendations and in the middle holes. It gave just enough fire wall clearance while still having just enough room for the radiator/fan to fit. I did have to move my third link upper control arm over about two inches as at full bump it was making contact with the engine. Going to be welding up the brackets this weekend.
Conquest255- What brand of alt p/s bracket is that? I'm using a holley and have to run the pump from an f-body if I recall. I like your's because it looks like you are running a larger p/s pump, maybe even a Saginaw style. What offset on the balancer do you have? i.e. truck, f-body or corvette?
looks good. I am basically at the same point with my swap. LS2 into a 97 TJ. I had the same clearance issue as you but caught it before I did the final welding on the mounts. I moved them forward about .75". Now the issue is, there is absolutely no space between the novak radiator and the accessories. As you can see from my intake, next issue to solve is the upper radiator hose. Starting to think this Jeep is fighting back on the swap.
What water pump you useing? 07 up trucks have a nice angle to the pass side that should point in the general direction you need??
How about swinging that intake to the driver's side?If that doesn't work,take a look at the 2010+ Camaro water pump,it has truck spacing for the accessories.
Pharm- Not yet. I was looking over wiring diagrams today. I'm keeping my jeep ecm so I can retain my airbags, a/c (pretty sure it runs thru the ecm) and whatever else I find that is important. At this point I will be removing circuits that are in the way. Like the t/c light, speedo input, old alternator wiring, etc. Keep in mind I'm running speedhut gauges and don't need the jeep wiring for it.