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Installed the driver's side accessory drive bracket. It clears the shock tower by 3/4 of an inch. Got alternator installed and plug connected. Hoping it performs as claimed on the test tag. This will have plenty of demand put on it including the water pump, radiator cooling fan, trans cooling fan and p/s cooling fan. The extra capacity is anticipated for winch use or lighting.
I have a non-LS related swap I've been at work on for over four years with next to no progress, and wish to LS-swap my larger Mercedes while looking to turbo the other one!
Never can seem to find the time to do the things I actually want to, oh, and can't find the money either, hehe.
Conquest255- What brand of alt p/s bracket is that? I'm using a holley and have to run the pump from an f-body if I recall. I like your's because it looks like you are running a larger p/s pump, maybe even a Saginaw style. What offset on the balancer do you have? i.e. truck, f-body or corvette?
Using the Goat bracket slightly modified to accept the Alt. I'm running the PSC CBR pump for hydro assist I had on my 4.0L, but did have to order a .815 offset pulley. I'm using the F-body spacing.
I wanted to run the truck water pump for hose routing purposes, however with the Dirty Dingo AC mount it would not fit up.
I'm hopefully going to fire it up for the first time tonight. Fingers crossed!
IF you figure out the AC please share, I've been looking at wire diagrams however I'm currently stumped. Novak provided a wire for the high/low sensors and one you need to provide 12v from the AC switch command.
Using the Goat bracket slightly modified to accept the Alt. I'm running the PSC CBR pump for hydro assist I had on my 4.0L, but did have to order a .815 offset pulley. I'm using the F-body spacing.
I wanted to run the truck water pump for hose routing purposes, however with the Dirty Dingo AC mount it would not fit up.
I'm hopefully going to fire it up for the first time tonight. Fingers crossed!
Thought I'd share for the benefit of others...it did not start, nor turn over...come to find out when I was simplifying the Jeep harness, I'd cut the Manual transmission pigtail since my swap includes the GM 6L80. There was a jumper wire tapped up in that pigtail normally used for Auto PRND safety switch. Left open it would not allow for startup. FYI...it sounds pretty amazing with only 1ft of exhaust.
Thanks conquest! So it was the neutral safety switch! I'll add that to my check list.
I had to connect the BR/LB wire to ground to re-establish the Jumper for my Manual transmission. I understand the 6l80 has the Neutral safety switch internally. I assume you'll need to do the same if you originally had a A/T. My wire harness from Novak did not come with a PNRD safety switch.
Also, don't suppose you've found a way to delete Check engine or Check Gauges lights on the dash? Appears the only way to do it is with a sharpy or some black tape.
Thanks for the schematic. I'll do it tomorrow! As far as the dash/gauges. I ditched the stock setup and bought speed hut legacy gauges. Mine plug into the obdII or I can connect to the CAN lo/hi wires directly. You are farther along than I am!
I had to connect the BR/LB wire to ground to re-establish the Jumper for my Manual transmission. I understand the 6l80 has the Neutral safety switch internally. I assume you'll need to do the same if you originally had a A/T. My wire harness from Novak did not come with a PNRD safety switch.
Also, don't suppose you've found a way to delete Check engine or Check Gauges lights on the dash? Appears the only way to do it is with a sharpy or some black tape.
The only light I couldnt get out on my swap was the check engine light. As long as all the gauges are working you wont get the Check Gauges light. The CEL on the other hand..... i tapped it off on the back side of the panel. If one wanted to get crafty and knew a little bit about the board you could wire the CEL from the GM harness right into the Jeep panel. I thought about it, but once I got all the gauges to work.... I just drive it.
Curious if you figured out how to get the reverse lights to work. Novak indicates without the bcm there is no way to trigger. I'm thinking maybe I'll just rig up a small limit switch on the shifter somehow.
In other news, I'm taking the jeep down to the exhaust shop tomorrow to get her quieted down. The biggest challenge will be driverside down pipe as it's so close to the upper control arm coming off the camaro manifold.
Here's the dash I'm working with. Got the wiring connected to the gauges and zip tied in place. Looks like a total of 8 wires and two plugs to connect. Hi beam wire, turn signals, 12 volt to gauge power-back lighting-pointer and two from fuel gauge level. Not as bad as running wires to each gauge. The **** up high in between the speedo and tach is for diming the gauge lighting.
Curious if you figured out how to get the reverse lights to work. Novak indicates without the bcm there is no way to trigger. I'm thinking maybe I'll just rig up a small limit switch on the shifter somehow.
In other news, I'm taking the jeep down to the exhaust shop tomorrow to get her quieted down. The biggest challenge will be driverside down pipe as it's so close to the upper control arm coming off the camaro manifold.
If its a AX15 or a NV3550 there should be a boss for a reverse light switch on the passenger side of the transmission if I recall///
If its a AX15 or a NV3550 there should be a boss for a reverse light switch on the passenger side of the transmission if I recall///
I'm running the 6l80. I ended up wiring a small limit switch to the shifter to trigger backup lights....tied into purple/black wire which used to run from the nv3550. Works perfect.
Here's the dash I'm working with. Got the wiring connected to the gauges and zip tied in place. Looks like a total of 8 wires and two plugs to connect. Hi beam wire, turn signals, 12 volt to gauge power-back lighting-pointer and two from fuel gauge level. Not as bad as running wires to each gauge. The **** up high in between the speedo and tach is for diming the gauge lighting.
Those gauges look awesome! Wish I would have went that route instead. By the way if you need any programming, wongs performance in Vancouver is a great guy and knows these ls engines. I had him flash the engine ecu and tcm to the same software. I may take the jeep back to him to put on the dyno.
I'm running the 6l80. I ended up wiring a small limit switch to the shifter to trigger backup lights....tied into purple/black wire which used to run from the nv3550. Works perfect.
OOPS I was switching from the jeep forum to here and was stuck in 2nd... LOL
Side note... One way I've done them is with a reed switch and a magnet. that way its all sealed and I don't worry about water getting in the switch (If I'm running a trans mounted shifter...
Got it together and running. Still many things to do. Working on leaks, patching trans tunnel, cleaning up wiring, connecting air compressor and air locker related items. Did get exhaust done, however, not real happy with it. They used small diameter tubing and is rough. I did get it licensed without emissions test. Exhaust does have a "racing" cat that has 100 cells per inch. So, just enough to clean up the exhaust where I'm not choking out those behind me on the trails! I will post some pics soon!
Any updates on this? Just set an LS3 onto my CJ frame today for the first time and playing with the final location before welding the mounts. Looking forward to additional pics of your project. thanks
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