68FirebirdAP

iTrader: (3)

Hey all, I decided to start a build thread for the project I am starting. Not really new to working on cars, but this will be my first time dealing with a LS style engine and turbos. I mostly finished my last project in December and have found that I have too much free time(most of which is spent watching TV)... So I've decided to pull the trigger on this project(with a very limited budget).

I've got a 1954 Chevy pickup that was restored ~25 years ago then sat for 10-15 years before I picked it up in 2012 and built a mild SBC 406 with a 4L80e transmission. The truck already had a NP 208 T-case and 1 ton Chevy truck axles with 4.11 gears. I was 21 and in college at the time and didn't have the patience to mess with the partially rat chewed wiring harness and just put in some bandaids(I have a little more patience now) to get the truck running and driving. The truck weighs ~6000lbs and the 300ish HP SBC just isn't cutting it(I'm not so good at tuning carbs) so I decided to do an LS swap and throw a turbo on top. I've always liked the LS engines and since I had to do a lot of electrical and HP tuners work on my last project(Here is the link to its build thread), I think a LS swap sounds like a great idea for this truck.

I picked up a 5.3 LMG with 6l80 trans complete with wiring harness and gas pedal out of a 2012 Chevy Tahoe with just under 50K miles on it yesterday. My plan is to build the truck in 2wd now based on budget constraints and since I believe that the 4wd 6l80s have a different output shaft length(I'll mock up the NP 208 just to confirm). I intend to leave the engine and trans stock. I am assuming that since the engine only had 50K miles on it, that it should be fine making power in the 500 HP range as-is. Based on the below article, I am guessing that I'll need to be at ~6psi to achieve that number.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...lock-for-3252/

I know that I will need the following components for the build:

Walbro E85 450LPH fuel pump F90000274 $115
2.5 bar MAP Sensor 12614973 $53
new Fuel Injectors(not sure what size, assuming Siemens Deka 80 lb/hr based on builds I've read) $400

As for the Turbo components, I haven't got a clue... I can make the turbo piping and I know I need a turbo, BOV, wastegate, & boost controller. Beyond that, I am still looking into it. I am considering a chinese turbo just based on my budget(Trying to stay less than 1K on these components, may upgrade later). If anyone has other suggestions, I would like to hear them. I am open to buying and rebuilding a used turbo to save money also.

In the mean time, I've started labeling and pulling the sheathing on the harness yesterday so I can start pulling non-essential wires.

I appreciate any feedback.

-Austin

Advanced Design

Well, I love these trucks, plus this sounds like a cool project so I will be tagging along.

68FirebirdAP

iTrader: (3)

I started identifying wires that can be removed from the harness yesterday and I figured out that this is going to be more time consuming than I thought...

It turns out that the fuse panel in this car is actually a circuit board in a plastic housing that accepts the fuses. So the rear pin location doesnt match up to the fuse slot on the top...

I think the easiest way to identify all the circuits is to take an Ohm meter and check continuity on every single fuse to check with pin it goes to on the back. Any other suggestions?

Brandenhs

iTrader: (2)

Get a pin out of the fuse box it'll save you alot of time. Each harness that connects to the underside has a name and each pin has a location (A1,B2 etc) I would post on but I don't have anything past 2009

68FirebirdAP

iTrader: (3)

Branden,

You are very right. I spent a few more hours messing with it this morning before I got mad and moved on to another area of the harness.

For anyone else who needs this, I found the ECU Molex service manual(pg 34-37) for how to add and remove pins along with a 2013 light duty Chevy Trucks electrical layout(pg118-131).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B93...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B93...ew?usp=sharing

68FirebirdAP

iTrader: (3)

Time for this weekend's update:

Got the engine & trans pulled. Ready to start mocking up the new engine to see what to do about motor mounts before I mess with re-wiring the truck...

I am a bit concerned about fitting an intercooler in front of the radiator. The available space is only 15x3x20 (LxWxH) inches. And this area will be partially covered by the grill and the hood...

Also, I think I have the harness finished (mostly). The only things left to do are to link the hot on key wires to a fused power wire and find a replacement pin for the coil wire plug. One of the wires was cut at the plug. I am actually having a difficult time identifying a PN for the pin so that I can crimp a new one on...

68FirebirdAP

iTrader: (3)

Been a while, but I'm back to working on the truck after it went to storage...

Got the engine mounted in the truck and bolted in. Manifold didn't quite fit... We'll see how well the manifold holds up. If it breaks, I'll buy a set of headers.

As there is a ton of room above the engine in the truck, I am going to mount the turbo above the engine. Easier access and it will enable me to use a top inlet IC with short runs from the turbo to IC and IC to intake.

Any recommendations on sizing for wastegates? Turbo is a Turbonetics TC-78. I am planning on running 8psi to start.

Next is to start working on the accessory configuration...

68FirebirdAP

iTrader: (3)

So... Its been a while since I worked on the truck, but I've made some progress and an having some issues and need some help...

I got a PSI Conversion HAR-1073 wiring harness and have connected everything except the Brake TCC switch. Also, there is no water in the radiator yet...

I have a toggle switch for each of the:
-Fuel Pump (58psi)
-Key on and cranking wire

I was able to download the tune with HP tuners(newest version). Once downloaded, I went to the "OS" tab and disabled VATs 1 & 2.

I wrote the tune back and tried to start it... nothing...

I've got the turbo and most of the exhaust off right now, just want to make sure it can idle before I put the turbo back on and button everything up.

Here are the codes it is throwing:


P0443 "Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit"

P0449 "Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction"

P0452 "EVAP Pressure Sensor/Switch Low"

P0463 When the powertrain control module (PCM) gets an input signal from the fuel gauge (or fuel level sensor) that is higher than the actual level of fuel in the gas tank, it will store a P0463 code, and the Check Engine Light will turn on.

P057C Brake pedal position (BPP) sensor - circuit low

U0109 Lost Communication with Fuel Pump Control Module (FPCM)

P0641 "Sensor Reference Voltage A Circuit Open"

P2123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch D Circuit High Input

P2127 "Throttle Position Sensor E Circuit Low Input"

P2128 "Throttle Position Sensor/Switch E Circuit High Input"

The first 6 are no surprise and I wouldn't expect they would cause a starting issue. The last 4 concern me.. I checked the throttle blade and it actuates properly.

Any thoughts or recommendations?

hotrodvince

iTrader: (1)

Did you ever get anything figured out with your swap?

68FirebirdAP

iTrader: (3)

The truck build has taken the back burner the past few months, but I heard back from PSI that most of those codes were supposed to be turned off when you use their harness. With the help from a few members, I updated the tune where it runs and drives (sort of...) I need to update the tune more as it goes pretty lean above 3000 rpm. I finaly got a wideband, so it will be better to tune now