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tie rod clearance from heaven - or hell

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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 11:59 PM
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Default tie rod clearance from heaven - or hell

How about this clearance? Full lock. Engine sits nice and low and the Tremec app approved my driveline angles. Just need to cut and weld the oil pan. No budget for Holley 302-2, the Moroso

pan came in a good deal over a year ago.

69 Skylark
LS1
Moroso 20140
sbc frame stands
Trans Dapt 4592 mounts
Hooker LS Swap a-body
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 11:38 AM
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I read on here somewhere redrill new holes for moving idler arm forward 1/2 inch works well.
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 76larkman
I read on here somewhere redrill new holes for moving idler arm forward 1/2 inch works well.
I would like to relocate them downwards 1/2 inch, but that is not possible with the steering box. Relocating forward would be nice, but we are talking at least two inches here... But I will look into it, thanks for the tip! Engine is being moved 1 inch backwards also. Maybe those tricks will combine...
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:27 PM
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I used the GM muscle car pan not knowing what I know now. This in my 76 skylark(nova style) with adaptor plates to steel mounts. That sucked as went to lower motor down it wouldn't set on frame mounts in sbc position. I hade to put on frame side to engine lower it in. Remark holes and drill frame. Went to turn steering and found same as you. So I spaced up engine 3/8 each side and clears. But now hood barely closes altenator too high. Never ends. At least mine running / moving.
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 04:16 PM
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Do yourself a favor, save up for the Holley/Hooker swap component. You'll have less headaches down the line and have a much better swap.

Andrew
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 04:34 PM
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If you are going to go through the effort of modifying parts to get the needed tie-rod clearance, I would at a minimum start with new, high quality, currently available inner tie rods in place as many of them have larger diameter heads than the older OE parts...better to do it now and make sure you create the clearance for them.
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Old May 9, 2016 | 01:03 AM
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I had a couple of weeks off the oil pan issues, but I solved like this cutting out pieces from a flattened pice of exhaust tubing A buddy of mine is a professional welder, he is putting it together for me later today (because I will probably screw it up anyway, lol)




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Old May 9, 2016 | 01:08 AM
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The oil tube is really in the way of everything, that is why the mods are assymetrical.
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Old May 9, 2016 | 07:40 AM
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That will get you there. The stock pick-up tube definitely doesn't help efforts towards maximizing front end pan clearance, which is why a specific pick-up tube was designed for the Holley 302-2 pan to push it in, and upwards, as far as possible.
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Old May 9, 2016 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Toddoky
That will get you there. The stock pick-up tube definitely doesn't help efforts towards maximizing front end pan clearance, which is why a specific pick-up tube was designed for the Holley 302-2 pan to push it in, and upwards, as far as possible.
This is the Moroso pickup tube, btw. But it sure looks like it could have been routed maybe a handful millimeters higher up.
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Old May 9, 2016 | 07:55 AM
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lookin good from here, bud.
cut, weld, grind, repeat.
throw skills at it instead of your wallet.
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Old May 9, 2016 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by freda155
This is the Moroso pickup tube, btw. But it sure looks like it could have been routed maybe a handful millimeters higher up.
Yes, I noticed you were using the Moroso parts and was just relating our experience to what you're going through. What you've ended up with should work great.
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Old May 10, 2016 | 02:14 AM
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That feeling, when it is just a matter of putting everything together – and start it up.

Thank you all for input!

(Have to get TIG welding equipment, what a sweet process to watch!)

(not my tattoos, though )

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