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I've looked at all my images and cannot find one showing the 4L80 in the new edge application, so I have to assume that it is something I missed doing on my check list (I did that project back in 2016, so my direct memory of it is a little hazy at this point). That transmission is large and took up every bit of available space in the tunnel of the 1998 car I had it in, so it wouldn't surprise me if the factory transmission crossmember brackets attached to the floor of your New Edge car would have to be removed, or notched to provide the room needed for installation. I apologize for any inconvenience this may be putting you through as I know how frustrating it can be to be working off of incorrect or incomplete information.
I've looked at all my images and cannot find one showing the 4L80 in the new edge application, so I have to assume that it is something I missed doing on my check list (I did that project back in 2016, so my direct memory of it is a little hazy at this point). That transmission is large and took up every bit of available space in the tunnel of the 1998 car I had it in, so it wouldn't surprise me if the factory transmission crossmember brackets attached to the floor of your New Edge car would have to be removed, or notched to provide the room needed for installation. I apologize for any inconvenience this may be putting you through as I know how frustrating it can be to be working off of incorrect or incomplete information.
Nothing to apologize for Todd - I appreciate the insight!!!!
I ended up removing the factory-x-mem mounting tabs and jacked the trans up as high as it would go. At this point with the trans tail against the shifter, there is only 1.5" between the Hooker x-mem and the Hooker 4l80e bracket. The required Hooker mount is apprx 2" and the instructions state to also install a 3/16" spacer. So somehow to use the recommended parts I need the trans to go up another 11/16", which isn't going to happen. I remember the trans shifter being mentioned early in the thread, anything ever became of that?
Couple options I guess: 1 - trim top of trans as much as possible. 2 - try and shim up shifter a bit. 3 - use a shorter trans mount and deal with the angle issues.
The Holley and common Prothane GM transmission mounts are both 1-3/4" tall. If you can shim your shifter up enough to be able to install the Holley mount between the crossmember and the adapter bracket on the transmission, you'll be able to get by with that geometry on a non-lowered car. If you lower the suspension, you'll want to do what you need to do to be able to install the 3/16" shim as well between the trans mount and the crossmember. The shim is included due to the Energy Suspension mount that is popular with many users being 3/16" taller than the Holley mount, which allows that mount to be used by leaving the spacer out.
Thank you again Todd. I measure the Hooker mount and it measures 1.8". Again at this point I only have about 1.5" to work with so I'm going to see what I can clearance. Not sure if I can shim up the shifter b/c the shifter may not work with the console, but will see what happens!
We'll, doesn't look like this 4l80e will fit w/o mods to the shifter for sure. Only way to get the trans up high enough with the required trans mount is to get the shifter out of the way. Not sure how to go about it - if I raise the shifter the console will also need mods. Thinking about replacing the shifter but that will be another ~$300.00 and may require just as much console mods. So will have to think about this. Could lower the tailshaft a bit but defeats the purpose of this whole system. At this point I would recommend 4l80e's users to prepare for more work than anticipated.
Some photos of the situation:
Shifter loosened up to get the trans up.
Can this area be ground down??? This is an interference point and could gain about 1/4" if I smooth it out. But it looks like it's there for a reason.
As long as you do it in a concentrated and judicious manner I don't see any reason why you can't knock down that ridge on top of the case any the area near the shifter. Energy Suspension also sells a GM transmission mount that is 1-1/2" tall, so the use of that mount will give you some more wiggle room to get the transmission installed and the car running. If and when you want to make further efforts to optimize the set-up, you could change out the shifter and shim the transmission mount to raise the back of the transmission.
Hate to lower the rear of the trans as that defeats the whole purpose of this system IMO, but we'll see. I suppose the angle would be off a bit anyway b/c the 3/16 shim is not in place?
I smoothed out the trans a bit, and now with the trans jacked up against the shifter, I can finally get the mount in. But, the trans is still against the shifter. I don't really feel comfortable smoothing the trans anymore, so I need to regroup and think about this a bit. I need to find 1/4" of space. Trying to maintain the desired angles so I don't have to get adjustable rear control arms to bring things into place. Hopefully the driveshaft yoke will have adequate clearance now that I think about it.
Raised the shifter for now apprx .5", and was able to get the trans up using the recommended mount and spacer. Keep in mind this was accomplished by a combination of grinding the transmission and raising the shifter (which has created another set of issues in terms of console trim fitment which still needs to be addressed and not sure ultimately how that will be resolved. A concern that I have stems from measuring a 4.5* difference between the engine angle and the pinion angle, and I was able to repeat these measurements several times. Appears to me that the tailshaft needs to go up further still match the rear pinion angle, or the front of the engine needs to come down, or adjustable rear uppers to bring everything back in line. I still don't have a driveshaft to see what the working angles are going to be.
At this point I don't think this is going to work out. The shifter fiasco really turns me off more than anything. A better route would be to lower the engine in front as low as possible which would limit how far the tailshaft has to be driven upwards.
Hmmmm you have me worried now 69 on the fitment of a 4L80E. I wonder if I should cancel my order for that bracket and just go with a 4L70E bracket instead? Looking for around 700hp though.
Originally Posted by 69-chvl
Raised the shifter for now apprx .5", and was able to get the trans up using the recommended mount and spacer. Keep in mind this was accomplished by a combination of grinding the transmission and raising the shifter (which has created another set of issues in terms of console trim fitment which still needs to be addressed and not sure ultimately how that will be resolved. A concern that I have stems from measuring a 4.5* difference between the engine angle and the pinion angle, and I was able to repeat these measurements several times. Appears to me that the tailshaft needs to go up further still match the rear pinion angle, or the front of the engine needs to come down, or adjustable rear uppers to bring everything back in line. I still don't have a driveshaft to see what the working angles are going to be.
At this point I don't think this is going to work out. The shifter fiasco really turns me off more than anything. A better route would be to lower the engine in front as low as possible which would limit how far the tailshaft has to be driven upwards.
Hmmmm you have me worried now 69 on the fitment of a 4L80E. I wonder if I should cancel my order for that bracket and just go with a 4L70E bracket instead? Looking for around 700hp though.
We'll, I have the 4l80e in but with just the mount and not the additional spacer per the instructions. Without the spacer (I think it was 3/16") I was able to reinstall the factory shifter back in place. But, this was with the top of the trans smoothed out a bit. And honestly, it looks like it needs a little more smoothing, but the trans is in there.
I think the front of the engine could of been lowered apprx 1" which would help a bit but I don't see anything that will avoid the need for rear adjustable upper control arms to keep the angles equal but opposite. Right now, engine is about 4* and pinion 0*. At this point only thing I'm worried about is the working angles - hopefully they wont be too steep.
Good news its in there 69. I guess I will stay with my 80 plans as that seems to be the only transmission that can handle the power....unless you want a $5000 tranny. I really didn't expect it to be that much of a pain with a pre-made system. That's what made me want to get it as I have gone through the modify to fit path too many times. I know its hard for me to understand as I have not taken my 2001 apart yet, but would it be possible to space the shifter up a little bit and trim around the console area? I know its kind of curved on top, so I haven't looked at the complete assembly myself. I too want to keep the stock shifter, but maybe need to think about alternative options now. Does anyone have a recommended shifter that would look okay in these cars? I think I will have to use the spacer as well because I plan on using Ford Racing C springs that lower the car about an 1" give or take.
. That's what made me want to get it as I have gone through the modify to fit path too many times. I know its hard for me to understand as I have not taken my 2001 apart yet, but would it be possible to space the shifter up a little bit and trim around the console area? I know its kind of curved on top, so I haven't looked at the complete assembly myself. I too want to keep the stock shifter, but maybe need to think about alternative options now. Does anyone have a recommended shifter that would look okay in these cars? I think I will have to use the spacer as well because I plan on using Ford Racing C springs that lower the car about an 1" give or take.
ANYTHING can be accomplished with enough time and pressure. I'm sure depending on your level of ambition you can come up with a shifter solution. I did a search online and most of the installs were a little too butch for me and not that clean looking. For a race car - sure, street car not so much at least for me.
If you were to space the shifter up, which you can, the console trim/bezel whatever its called will not sit back down flush with the console. And because the trim piece has complex bends/angles it in, it's not just a matter of spacing it as well. It will have to be modified. Again comes down to ambition. I elected to put the shifter back in place and run the 4* driveline angle - let's see how this works out.
On another note the crossmember is a beautiful piece of work. Very robust, heavy duty and a nice coating. The thing is a tank. Pretty easy to take on/off too which has been a good thing LOL!!!
Glad you are making it work, 69. Hopefully it’s not much of an issue with the angle, but I wouldn’t think it would be. I did a V8 Miata not long ago and I am sure the angles were not perfect on it. I got it close enough and it still drove fine. That was a 5 speed though so had a little more room on it. It was a challenge to get engine and trans right with each other in the car. Hence why I wanted something I do not have to fool with as much this go around.
Thank you for the info as well since it will help me when I start on mine. Either way it looks like the BFH will have to come out. Lol
Glad you are making it work, 69. Hopefully it’s not much of an issue with the angle, but I wouldn’t think it would be. I did a V8 Miata not long ago and I am sure the angles were not perfect on it. I got it close enough and it still drove fine. That was a 5 speed though so had a little more room on it. It was a challenge to get engine and trans right with each other in the car. Hence why I wanted something I do not have to fool with as much this go around.
Thank you for the info as well since it will help me when I start on mine. Either way it looks like the BFH will have to come out. Lol
You will need a BFH, a sawzall and a grinder - at least on my car. But in the end you will have a high-powered light weight car and that's what matters.
Wish I could start on it sooner. Yes that is very true and I am sure you will enjoy the new car. Good thing I have all those tools from previous jobs. Just need the room to start on it. Also waiting on the 4L80E bracket as it says another month or so.
Originally Posted by 69-chvl
You will need a BFH, a sawzall and a grinder - at least on my car. But in the end you will have a high-powered light weight car and that's what matters.
So Toddoky I have a new question. I just got my 71223013HKR adapter for the 4L80e. Why does it say on the box that it fits 94-98 Mustang? The website says the same. Shouldn't they be the same as the 99-04? Yet you pull up the VK090214 kit with engine brackets/transmission mounts it says 1996-2004 Mustang and for a 4L80e you need the 71223013HKR adapter? Thanks!
So Toddoky I have a new question. I just got my 71223013HKR adapter for the 4L80e. Why does it say on the box that it fits 94-98 Mustang? The website says the same. Shouldn't they be the same as the 99-04? Yet you pull up the VK090214 kit with engine brackets/transmission mounts it says 1996-2004 Mustang and for a 4L80e you need the 71223013HKR adapter? Thanks!
Just ignore the description on the box label, the adapter fits all the Mustang 4L80 applications.
Hello fellas. Question for anybody that used this system - what did you do for a dipstick? The engine mounts/plates sort of partially cover up the hole in the block for the dipstick tube. I purchased a Lokar flexible dipstick and I still can't get it past the mounting and into the hole. Looks like I have to remove the mounting, get the dipstick in, then remount everything.
Wow Todd, I must say you have been great answering questions for us....though Holley as a company needs some serious help. The customer service is REALLY lacking and I know that is not your area. I placed my order (5/28) for all my mounts and like others....still waiting on the 4L80e mount. When I ordered it, it said they would be in stock again in August. I thought no big deal as I can wait. I checked this last weekend and the date for them changed to November!! Well I emailed them my order number on Monday.....no answer. Emailed them again Thursday morning....no answer. I decided to call them up just now to see what the deal was. The lady basically told me what I found online. She said they have 6 back ordered and they are expected in November. Six months to fill an order of 6 back-orders? Then I went on the forum here and found lots of others complaining about this same thing happening on other Holley parts. I am thinking about returning these items and just going with an AJE K member instead. Hate to do that though as I really liked what all you put together.
05-26-2021, 06:50 AM
Just need the room to start on it. Also waiting on the 4L80E bracket as it says another month or so.