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So here's my issue, oil pan is contacting the subframe on the passenger side. It's a Canton 13-274 rear sump road race pan. My question is, is there and adjustment with these Hooker mounts on the 4cyl/5.0 subframe for side to side adjustment? The motor seems really tight on the passenger side, tight enough that a stock cast manifold will not work... I've been waiting for my hooker black heart headers since September 2019 with no available ship date as of yet. So far I've been fairly disappointed with all of these components and lack of customer service.
My other issue is my mounts did not come with studs in them so I don't know what's the drivers side or passenger side
Mine didn't come with studs either. It was very difficult to figure out which side was which and I just knew that I was going to not choose wisely! On their website, both of the pictures clearly shows a stud. The instructions clearly mention a pressed in stud. I contacted Toddoky via PM and he told me what stud he used. It is the Dorman 610-328. I picked up a pair of them from my closest O'Reilly Auto Parts store then I used my HF hydraulic press to press them into the brackets.
Your engine is in your car so I'm assuming that you picked up the studs locally and pressed them in like I did.
Last edited by dannyual777; 01-14-2021 at 11:43 PM.
Reason: added text
Mine didn't come with studs either. It was very difficult to figure out which side was which and I just knew that I was going to not choose wisely! On their website, both of the pictures clearly shows a stud. The instructions clearly mention a pressed in stud. I contacted Toddoky via PM and he told me what stud he used. It is the Dorman 610-328. I picked up a pair of them from my closest O'Reilly Auto Parts store then I used my HF hydraulic press to press them into the brackets.
Your engine is in your car so I'm assuming that you picked up the studs locally and pressed them in like I did.
I haven't installed the studs, thank you for the part number. I'll get those picked up and pressed in 👍🏻
I prefer the design of the canton system, I'll mod my subframe before I change out my pan/crank scraper/pickup
Your proposed solution is exactly what my suggestion was going to be. The amount of notching you'll need to do to your subframe seems minimum and won't be enough to impact the overall strength of the subframe in a negative way. The choice you made to use a manual steering rack is also working to benefit you as I don't think you would be able to use the Canton oil pan with a power steering rack and the Hooker Blackheart engine mounting brackets.
Your proposed solution is exactly what my suggestion was going to be. The amount of notching you'll need to do to your subframe seems minimum and won't be enough to impact the overall strength of the subframe in a negative way. The choice you made to use a manual steering rack is also working to benefit you as I don't think you would be able to use the Canton oil pan with a power steering rack and the Hooker Blackheart engine mounting brackets.
Thank you for the response, it's amazing you're still posting in this old thread! I did a manual rack but I'm running an electronic power column from a Vauxhall Corsa with a variable resistance adjustment! Backwards technology carb and distributor set up is fun too!
Im sad it's been such a wait on the headers but I'm excited to get this wrapped up and driving! The engine looks mean in there (forged 408 / T56 Magnum)
Thank you for the response, it's amazing you're still posting in this old thread! I did a manual rack but I'm running an electronic power column from a Vauxhall Corsa with a variable resistance adjustment! Backwards technology carb and distributor set up is fun too!
Im sad it's been such a wait on the headers but I'm excited to get this wrapped up and driving! The engine looks mean in there (forged 408 / T56 Magnum)
I make it a point to check in with all my Hooker Blackheart support threads as much as possible. I forgot to comment on your header wait time...I would place a call to Holley customer service on the status of that order and be sure it’s actually pending after such a length of time.
Last edited by user 4737373; 01-15-2021 at 10:41 AM.
Buryingthesun, it sounds like it won't take too much work to make your good Canton oil pan work. Your welcome on the wheel stud part number. When I installed my wheel studs, I found that the length was fine and I didn't have to cut them shorter. YMMV.
That does seem like a very long time to have to wait for headers. Hopefully your call to Holley will produce fruit. I've had my Holley headers for at least a year and a half. Way before covid made it's ugly appearance. I'm at the point where my headers are going to be installed sometime this month. Good luck on getting your headers.
Buryingthesun, it sounds like it won't take too much work to make your good Canton oil pan work. Your welcome on the wheel stud part number. When I installed my wheel studs, I found that the length was fine and I didn't have to cut them shorter. YMMV.
That does seem like a very long time to have to wait for headers. Hopefully your call to Holley will produce fruit. I've had my Holley headers for at least a year and a half. Way before covid made it's ugly appearance. I'm at the point where my headers are going to be installed sometime this month. Good luck on getting your headers.
Ive already installed the correct studs and notched the subs frame! Everything fits and after lunch I'll toss in the hooker transmission crossmember
So I got my headers in and I had a heck of a time fitting the passenger side header on. Any tip
on this procedure? I still need to take it back out to install my starter
I don’t know the exact combination of parts you’re working with, but I can offer a couple of suggestions/comments. 1.) the headers are designed to go in from the bottom of the car, 2.) the header flange studs you are using were not accommodated for in the design/installation of the headers, so they may present issues.
I don’t know the exact combination of parts you’re working with, but I can offer a couple of suggestions/comments. 1.) the headers are designed to go in from the bottom of the car, 2.) the header flange studs you are using were not accommodated for in the design/installation of the headers, so they may present issues.
yeah I needed to remove 2 studs, I think the thickness of the QuickTime bell housing might have also caused some clearance issues. Thank you for the heads up on installation from the bottom.
yeah I needed to remove 2 studs, I think the thickness of the QuickTime bell housing might have also caused some clearance issues. Thank you for the heads up on installation from the bottom.
Yes, if you are use a QuickTime bellhousing and a stock K-member, you will be installing the headers in the most constrained parts combination I can think of. You may have to Jack the engine up off of the right side mounting bracket to create enough room to feed the header into place and then lower the engine back down.
Yes, if you are use a QuickTime bellhousing and a stock K-member, you will be installing the headers in the most constrained parts combination I can think of. You may have to Jack the engine up off of the right side mounting bracket to create enough room to feed the header into place and then lower the engine back down.
I will probably switch to the MM subframe soon, I think that's the only way this will be convenient to work on haha
01-14-2021, 09:05 PM
