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Use a piece of flex conduit to map it ,,, then have a local mandrel tubing shop bend it for you, then all you need is a couple of rubber couplers.. Or buy beer for a local electrician with a conduit bender and some Aluminum EMT>..
Good idea, I do know a few electricians. ..
Originally Posted by stevieturbo
Have you moved the alternator back ? ie running the Vette/later model belt position now ?
If so then a LS2 type water pump should go straight on and work, and give a lot more room than the older huge bell LS1 pump.
No unfortunately I'm running off the front position on the crank pulley. The alternator mount and power steering pump (for hydroboost brakes) mount that came in the swap kit I bought are setup this way. Shame as the LS2 pump is much cleaner looking, but a project is never don't so I may change things later.
Fresh gaskets on before I installed the intake and throttle body. I also organized the wiring coming through the firewall into a factory firewall bung so I'll maintain a nice seal there.
Setup a bracket for my remote oil filter adapter. Oil will pass through here to the oil cooler mounted in front of the rad. Used two existing captured nuts on the unibody "frame" rail. They're nice and solid, they originally held a tie down bracket when the cars were shipped out of the factory. Wanted something with no give for a nice positive feel when tightening down the filter.
Alright, this post isn't LS related but I figure I'd throw it in here anyway. The 944 Turbo comes stock with a giant washer reservoir. Huge. Mine has been leaking as long as I've had the car. So with the engine out and space to remove it I did just that. I swapped in a reservoir half the size from an early 944, used a 911 cap and a 928 pump and some fresh hose. Much better. Part numbers below for any 944 guys that need them.
This is the throwout bearing action. Does this look reasonable? This is a 944 LS swap package from SPEC with their stage 1 clutch with a SPEC steel (lightened) flywheel and a 7/8 clutch master cylinder.
It looks reasonable to me. You can test by turning one of the wheels, right? Put it in gear then depress the clutch pedal. Then spin a wheel (or both if you don't have an LSD). It should act like it is in neutral, right?
It looks like you have good access there. Have someone press the clutch pedal, and leave it in neutral and get a long thin screwdriver or something and see if you can turn the friction disc.
I too was going to suggest the "try and spin the friction disc with a screw driver" method.
Had the same issue with windshield washer reservoir size. I used a much smaller aftermarket unit from Jeg's....is your pic above the bigger one or the smaller one?
Had the same issue with windshield washer reservoir size. I used a much smaller aftermarket unit from Jeg's....is your pic above the bigger one or the smaller one?
Thats the smaller version. The big one is twice the size, it goes down further almost to the bottom of the car.
With a friend depressing the clutch I reached in through the transmission inspection cover and rotated the drive shaft by hand. It spun freely in both directions and continued rotating under its own momentum, except for a small section of its rotation where it felt like the friction disc was dragging on either the pressure plate or flywheel, I needed hand effort to rotate it through that small portion.
We did both a power bleed and a two man pedal bleed until there were absolutely no bubbles coming out of the remote bleed line. Clutch pedal is solid, but with most of the action happening in the bottom portion of the clutch pedal travel. I did lengthen the clutch pedal clevis slightly, but I haven't had a buddy to work the pedal to see if this solved the catching issue yet.
Did a little work on the oil lines. Warmed up with the easiest shortest line from the filter block to the oil cooler. Waiting on a few fittings before I tackle the two longer ones, pan to filter and cooler back to pan. Also test fit the short fat filter.
I'm hoping some of the big brains following this thread can answer this one.
The MEFI setup that came with my engine uses an external Ford style IAC valve. The hoses weren't connected to the engine when I picked it up used. In the picture I *think* the upper hose connects to the upper barb on the throttle body and lower hose connects to the lower barb on the intake. This would seem to allow air to bypass the throttle plate through the IAC valve to the intake to maintain idle.
06-11-2017, 04:53 AM
